Fuel Lines For Holley Stealth Ram
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Warminster, PA
Car: 1979 Firebird Esprit Redbird, 1987 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 301ci, 305ci
Transmission: T/H350, 700R4
Fuel Lines For Holley Stealth Ram
A guy from work told me that with my new holley stealth ram for my TPI motor, i need to get new braided fuel lines. Do you guys know what size the AN fittings are, and how long they need to be? Any help from someone whos done this before would be great.
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
i ran new braided lines all the way to the tank.
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From: Chicagoland Suburbs
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LT1, AFR 195cc, 231/239 LE cam.
Transmission: M28 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10bolt waiting to explode.
Do they really need to be braided? Stock they aren't, and I'm sure you could get a set made for cheaper if you don't go with braided lines. $120 is kind of much for fuel lines.
Hell, I'm pretty sure you could buy the hose and connectors from summit for cheaper than that. More like $60 to $80 total.
Hell, I'm pretty sure you could buy the hose and connectors from summit for cheaper than that. More like $60 to $80 total.
I'm sure there are other ways to do this.
And it's been about 10 years since I looked at a 3rd gen fuel line.
Aeroquip has a Versaflare product line.
Basically you cut your rubber lines off the stock steel lines and slip them on and tighten them up. Rated to 1000psi or so.
So you end up with a #6 male AN end on your steel lines.
The HSR comes with #6 fittings, so you just buy the appropriate length of hose and 4 hose ends and hook them up.
I think the stock return line is a 5/16 line. Which is a #5 size.
Not very common size. Not sure if there is a #5 to #6 AN fitting.
Have you checked Stealthram.com to see if it has any info. Your not the first one to do this.
You can usually get Aeroquip at a Hydraulic shop.
If you need to go back to stock rails, Russell and Accel sell adapters for the stock rails to #6 AN hose for about $15 ea.
oh
For AN lines sizing, the # is equal to the number of 16ths. So 5/16 is #5, 3/8=6/16=#6, #8 is 8/16. Also, the fitting ID isn't acually the listed size. A #8 fitting for example has a 7/16 ID, but fits a 1/2 or #8 hose. Only matters if your close to the accepatable flow limit for that size line. #8 at EFI pressures is good to 800-900 hp.
And it's been about 10 years since I looked at a 3rd gen fuel line.
Aeroquip has a Versaflare product line.
Basically you cut your rubber lines off the stock steel lines and slip them on and tighten them up. Rated to 1000psi or so.
So you end up with a #6 male AN end on your steel lines.
The HSR comes with #6 fittings, so you just buy the appropriate length of hose and 4 hose ends and hook them up.
I think the stock return line is a 5/16 line. Which is a #5 size.
Not very common size. Not sure if there is a #5 to #6 AN fitting.
Have you checked Stealthram.com to see if it has any info. Your not the first one to do this.
You can usually get Aeroquip at a Hydraulic shop.
If you need to go back to stock rails, Russell and Accel sell adapters for the stock rails to #6 AN hose for about $15 ea.
oh
For AN lines sizing, the # is equal to the number of 16ths. So 5/16 is #5, 3/8=6/16=#6, #8 is 8/16. Also, the fitting ID isn't acually the listed size. A #8 fitting for example has a 7/16 ID, but fits a 1/2 or #8 hose. Only matters if your close to the accepatable flow limit for that size line. #8 at EFI pressures is good to 800-900 hp.
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From: Nebraska
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Basically you cut your rubber lines off the stock steel lines and slip them on and tighten them up. Rated to 1000psi or so.
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
i had a carb on mine and the old fuel lines ran on the passenger side. since i had everything out of the car (meaning motor and tranny) i figured it was just as easy to install new lines so that is why i went with bradied lines. by all means you dont have to go with the bradied lines. go to stealthram.com andsee how they show the lines run
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From: Charles County, Maryland
Car: 2000 BMW M5
I'm running plain old rubber high pressure fuel injection hose with the barb fittings supplied for the Stealth Ram. The hoses run down to metal lines on the passenger side frame rail. Maybe some day I'll spring for some fancy braided hoses with threaded fittings on the ends, but for now this still looks clean and is plenty safe.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
i was going to go that route with the high pressure rubber lines and than one day change over to braided but than i just said forget it and did the braided instead. both ways work just fine
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by smokefan
i ran new braided lines all the way to the tank.
i ran new braided lines all the way to the tank.
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Valley Center,Kansas
Car: 92RS
Engine: LS 402 inwork
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt,3:73's
I just cut my lines where they made the upward angle under the car by the engine bay. I bought some of those compression fittings from Earl's that are -6AN on the ends. Then i fabricated 2 -6 braided hoses to run up to the S/R fittings. Very clean install once i was done. The fittings were only like $15-$20 if i remember.
i have been looking for that answer too.. i just got the HSR and i am trying to figgure out what i need. i found this http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/9894DBH.html
but i am not sure if that is what i am looking for.
but i am not sure if that is what i am looking for.
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From: clarksville, tn
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
I have another question pertaining to the HSR. There were a decent amount of hoses that came from the stock TPI but the HSR does not have provisions for most of these. Did all of you just plug them and not worry about it or did you somehow mount them?
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
There's only a few that you really need, brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, pcv, and HVAC controls. I just grabbed some barb fittings from ace.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by crazygearhead
i have been looking for that answer too.. i just got the HSR and i am trying to figgure out what i need. i found this http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/9894DBH.html
but i am not sure if that is what i am looking for.
i have been looking for that answer too.. i just got the HSR and i am trying to figgure out what i need. i found this http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/9894DBH.html
but i am not sure if that is what i am looking for.
RBob.
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From: clarksville, tn
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
Originally posted by iansane
There's only a few that you really need, brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, pcv, and HVAC controls. I just grabbed some barb fittings from ace.
There's only a few that you really need, brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, pcv, and HVAC controls. I just grabbed some barb fittings from ace.
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I just mean the hose that goes over top of that screw. You're supposed to have a hose that goes to the intake so the pressure varies with vacuum.
By HVAC controls I mean the heater controls for inside the car. There are two hard plastic tubes that come from the wiring harness just alittle bit off center near where the coil is stock. One goes to something (I have no idea, I don't have that connected) and the other goes to the HVAC controls inside the car.
If yours is Speed Density then it'll need a MAP signal tube as well. The shorter the better.
By HVAC controls I mean the heater controls for inside the car. There are two hard plastic tubes that come from the wiring harness just alittle bit off center near where the coil is stock. One goes to something (I have no idea, I don't have that connected) and the other goes to the HVAC controls inside the car.
If yours is Speed Density then it'll need a MAP signal tube as well. The shorter the better.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: clarksville, tn
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
Oh, that is much clearer about the FPR deal. As for the HVAC, is that the small black rectangular box that has a small hose going to an intake fitting and has the MAP fitting? Also, I don't have a FPR gauge, so how would I go about finding the right pressure to just get it running properly (I will have a gauge asap)?
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I'm not sure what black box you're talking about but I know on my car the HVAC controls didn't come out of any box, they came straight out of the wire loom harness back near the rear of the passanger side head. It's a real small diameter plastic tube. Smaller than a regular straw.
The screw on the AFPR just sets the base pressure (what it is at WOT I believe) so if you've got the hose hooked up to it just set it halfway or something until you get a guage (but get that as soon as possible) Are you hooking up a temp guage to set it or runnning a permanent one?
The screw on the AFPR just sets the base pressure (what it is at WOT I believe) so if you've got the hose hooked up to it just set it halfway or something until you get a guage (but get that as soon as possible) Are you hooking up a temp guage to set it or runnning a permanent one?
Last edited by iansane; May 13, 2005 at 03:31 AM.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,102
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by iansane
I'm not sure what black box you're talking about but I know on my car the HVAC controls didn't come out of any box, they came straight out of the wire loom harness back near the rear of the passanger side head. It's a real small diameter plastic tube. Smaller than a regular straw.
The screw on the AFPR just sets the base pressure (what it is at WOT I believe) so if you've got the hose hooked up to it just set it halfway or something until you get a guage (but get that as soon as possible) Are you hooking up a temp guage to set it or runnning a permanent one?
I'm not sure what black box you're talking about but I know on my car the HVAC controls didn't come out of any box, they came straight out of the wire loom harness back near the rear of the passanger side head. It's a real small diameter plastic tube. Smaller than a regular straw.
The screw on the AFPR just sets the base pressure (what it is at WOT I believe) so if you've got the hose hooked up to it just set it halfway or something until you get a guage (but get that as soon as possible) Are you hooking up a temp guage to set it or runnning a permanent one?
Some like more, some like less (for spray pattern, not fuel delivery - thats done with injector pulse width), but you'd really need to tune on a dyno to get much better.
-- Joe
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,102
Likes: 127
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by iansane
...If he's got no guage to tell what the pressure is, how does he do that?
...If he's got no guage to tell what the pressure is, how does he do that?

-- Joe
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