tpi user

yes i agree rod stroke is not that great ans piston pin in oilring groove also kind of sucks but that has been done alot and havent heard about many failures oil ring in grove happens on harley motors kind often when u stroke them mine has a 4 5/8 stroke an seems ok so far but its not the best set up. i totally agree that grinding the block near the water jackets to clear the rod bolts is risky but they say they fully sheck the thickness in these areas. but what happens if u get alittle block movement in high horsepower engines an maybe you get a little stress fracture in this area it will only get worsein time an spell disaster i would think .time will tell if they have reliability issues with them.the article was in this months popular hot rodding mag an they said it made 595 hp on engine dyno,ya there was no alternator no belts at all and an electric water pump.so maybe the numbers are inflated versus a real world situation, so maybe its makin more like 550 hp? 530? i dont know the price seemed great at around $3200 fully assembled short block plus shipping. but the reliability issue concerns me. i guess time will tell

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That is a GREAT price tho for a shortblock being all forged if i recall right. I just wasnt impressed with my buddies car regaurdless of the cam/tune problems. It should have put down alot more than it did. Maybe dart heads arent any good? maybe it wasnt the cam they say was in it? who knows, i hope my 383 on motor only will be putting down similar numbers to his motor on a 150 shot

tpi user

i think if you want the best heads out today afr is the only way to go. now for another subject, i see people on all different f body message boards really given the holley stealth ram a bad rep . in stock form it looks bad , but dont you think it has the highest potential of all the aftermarket tpi systems out there super ram slp tpis ltr and bigmouth intake base etc.people say where the d meets the rectangle part of the port is the choke point. i say so open the d part up where it meets the rectangle part its apprx 1.5 to 2 inches down in the port im sure u know whre i mean. so start by matching the bottom of the port to a 1205 and hold that size till u get to the d part of it an keep goin till u blow right by that little choke point but dont disturb the d shape just blend it larger. or you can go to a 1206 an try that. my point is this seems much easier than cuttin apart long tube runners then portin then weldin them back up, then youstill have the base to deal with even the tpis big mouth base only flows 220 cfm port matched to a 1205.it just seems like with not much effort u can beat any of these other systems and you dont have 17 inches of runner length. i cant find anyone whos really tied porting a hsr its gotta have great potential just not in stock form.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I have mildly ported my intake and am not sure if i'm gonna continue to clean it up or leave it as is.

The runner tubes basically taper down from the D part at the plenum to the head. its wider at the top as it opens to the D. There is alot of room in there to make things abit wider, but the smallest cross sectional area is the restriction and that lies from the head port to about half way up the HSR runner. Open that up as large as you want/need and you should be good to go to feed some high rpm hp

I opened up my HSR to about 1205 port size. Gasket just came today so i get to look at how well it lines up I also opened up alittle bit of the d and upper port walls on 4 of the runners that are offset from the head port, inorder to smooth out the flow abit better. It should improve flow on that manifold even tho i wasnt worried that my manifold wouldnt have enough.

If you look on this board for old threads about the HSR, there are many threads saying the HSR is not a performance intake and does not make good power. Well i have found that its fully capable of 400whp and to me thats a good bit. Its done 500whp n/a on a big 427. A Lt4 hotcam HSR will make near 380whp on a 383 with AFR 195 heads. My cam is abit larger than the hotcam I got abit more than .075 inch more lift and loads more duration I expect 400whp easily but i dont wanna get my hopes up. Its gonna be hard to dyno that thru a big 3600-3800 stall tho i think.

So we will see what the HSR will handle. Its a proven performer over TPI even on stock motors, so naturally its a great choice for cam/heads setups. And its definately EASIER to work with that ANY TPI setup. ONLY if you need emissions, should you consider TPI i feel

tpi user

ok i see what you mean about the restriction. so did you try to hold the 1205 size from the cyl head opening to about half way up? 380 rwhp is great with the hot cam, heres one i like its made by gm performane parts pace sells it as pn12370847 234int 242 ex 0.50 an 539 558 with 1.5 rr 1.6 rr i think would make this a great cam 112lsa

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yeah basically, i opened up the top of the port to better match to the AFR head ports but i would have run out of material so i stopped. HSR is pretty thin up top on the old castings. new castings are much much better. But there wasnt much else to do with the manifold, the runners were pretty big to begin with and i just made them slightly taller/wider in the middle all the way to the top.

And that cam is pretty nice, its the GM847 grind. will take a 383 out to 6500rpms. I believe a guy on stealth ram.com has a similar grind and his car runs really strong

tpi user

ok i must have an old hsr a 1206 gasket doesnt leave much room on mine either like .125 if that i just ordered this intake from jegs dam i knew i shoud have used summit the instructiona say copy right 2003 an it says printed on 03 also. also the 4 center int bolts are slotted not double angle bolt holes.does this mean i cant use them on 88 up heads. i used the tpis bigmouth on pre 87 trickflow heads old style intake pattern but the intake was drilled for both style heads . my hsr has only 1 angle on the 4 center intake bolts.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

thats odd. My hsr was cast in 02 (casting date is underneath the manifold) and has both angled bolt hole locations for the 4 center ones. you sure you got the non vortec version? I'm not sure if they had a 86-ealier casting or not but i thought all of them were made for all years

you can still use it, just gotta modify the holes alittle to get the angle you need

tpi user

theres 2 sets of numbers on bottom this one ithink is the casting #103007 the other number is i think a part# it is 701r126. the part number on my directions are 7540

tpi user

and the 4 center intake bolt holes are slotted exactly .730. you mean your hsr has plenty of room for a 1206 gasket?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

tehre should be a date like this 10/16/02 october 16 2002

and nooooo, my hsr has NO room. newer 07 castings do have room to port to 1206

oh and your bolt holes should look like a figure 8 cut into the manifold. like one hole drilled below the other, but overlapping abit. that allows for BOTH style angles to work

tpi user

the number must be oct 3 2007 i have exactly .133 material left after 1206 not enuff right? i mean#103007 sorry

tpi user

you know the more im lookin at this hsr and measuring it with my caliper ,it will take a 1206 because i have .133 of material left,on my old tpis bigmouth i opened it up to a 1206 an i just measured it an theres like.105 left an it sealed an ran fine sotheres .025 material left. so that number 103007 must date made. sorry for bein a pain in the *** an thanks helping

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

that sounds bout right. i dont think i will have anywhere near .133 left, but i havent measured it. i think i'm at .20ish with the 1205

Burnout91

My HSR base, with a casting date of November '07, has the four center bolt holes slotted; do you use a washer with a bevel (18* I believe) to get the bolt head to seat properly? I was thinking about counter-boring the holes with the correct angle to match the 72* bolts.
Bill

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

you can buy a angle bolt washer kit for those heads, but i just had regular washers underneath my bolts and snugged them down. It worked just fine for me

the kit summit suggested was something like this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

not worth the cost tho

Burnout91

Was there a gap under one side of the washer / bolt head?
Bill
P.S.: $75 bucks? NO THANKS, SUMMIT!

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

McMasterCarr sells square beveled washers with the proper angle, a package of 5 for about $4.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=92810A130
PN# 92810A130 should be what you need. I forget what diameter the intake bolts are, 3/8th I think. If not just search for Square Beveled Washers on the site under Fasteners.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yeah there may have been alittle gap but it really wasnt all that noticeable.

Burnout91

OK, thanks for the info! What do you all think about using the Comp XFI280 cam (230* / 236* @ .05", .576" / .570" lift, 113* LSA) with the HSR and AFR 195s?
Bill

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

Should work great. I have a 227/233 .560/.569 lift... on a 112 lsa

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

I'm running the XR282.230/236/510/520 with a 110 LSA.Took a few nites for a friend to get the tune right but I love the idle.Also with a HSR & AFR 190 heads

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

well i had a custom grind made up for my afr 195's and HSR and what i got was a 230/245 on a 109 lsa.

XFI cam should work well but it will be interesting to see the power differences. I have a cam with lots of overlap where as the XFI stuff doesnt have much overlap

Burnout91

I have to be able pass the California sniffer test with the cam; I can handle swapping the HSR out every other year, but don't want to swap a cam, also ....

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

that cam will pass emissions just fine, atleast i've heard it does. A 406 using that cam has passed cali emissions. Are you running a 383 or 350/355?

If going into a smaller 350, you may want to go with the 224/230 xfi. Comp has that lobe and should beable to grind it without any extra cost

Burnout91

Yes, it's a stock short-block "350". I think it is the narrower LSA cams that push some of the intake charge out the exhaust, raising HC levels. I was a little disappointed with the results of my last round of mods; this time I want to "go for the gusto", not so much worried about the cam, but the HSR would(most likely) never pass the visual (NO EGR). I have been getting the car through the sniffer, I just don't have the "jewels" to drive it in for certification with no EGR in place. I think the XFI280 would be pushing it a little in a 350, and that's just where I want to be. Thanks for the input / help! -Bill

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

with a great tune it may work fine. Its overlap is 57 degrees, i think you would want to stay as close to 50 as you can. I know 1989GTAtransam has a 228/228 113 cam and he is passing just fine. his overlap is like 50. he has a 10.75 to 1 355 motor tho
57 will make things interesting

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Kevin91Z's cam has like 57 degrees or so of overlap. Bill you have to remember you are running through an automatic transmission so the losses will be higher on the dyno. I think for a stock bottom end car you did exceptionally well.

There are a couple of 355 motors that will be comming on line with the XFI280 cam. Don should have one running in a couple of weeks. The other one is Vincents who is trying his darndest to stay in front of me.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

what did you do last time? I think the HSR will realllly wake things up. you'll like it

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

He was running out of the box SLP runners and Edelbrock intake manifold. So yes the HSR will be a big improvement and will of course require some tuning.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE]The XFI280 will pass smog in a 355 engine with the proper tune. So don't worry about it passing smog.

And yes Allen you will get smoke when my car hits the streets. Just remember to have my money ready when we get back to the track.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats good to know, that 280xfi cam is a nice sized cam and should make gobs of power. I know the little 268 does very well for what it is

400 hp

iTrader: (19)

i will soon be done with my 355 build i have a hsr on its way. vette 113 ported and ss valves and hot cam for my build...

Burnout91

I will be paying close attention to the results!
321 @ 4750RPM, held 300+rwhp 'til 5500RPM. Max torque was 375, but the dyno run started at 4000RPM to avoid a downshift.

Actually, I modded the runners and the plenum to look like the "Mega Ported" plenum and runners on the corvetteplenums.com web page. Dyno Don had also done some port matching on the runners and base.

[quote=VincentZ28;3710998][quote]

The XFI280 will pass smog in a 355 engine with the proper tune. So don't worry about it passing smog.
That's good to hear.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

321 isnt bad for a auto car. What cam and heads did you have?

Burnout91

This is the combo that made 321 / 375.
Bill

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yeah does sound abit lower than other similar combos show. Was the converter locked on that run? I know Allen made like 340-350whp with same cam on his more modded TPI.

Burnout91

The TCC locks at ~40MPH, so yes, it was locked. I think the main reason the HP was maybe a little low was because of compression, it's probably 10, maybe 10.2 :1. But...375 lb/ft of torque, and the peak torque may have ocurred before the run was recorded. Don't get me wrong, the car is a LOT of fun to drive!

Bill
P.S.: I believe my cam was installed ~3* advanced from Allen's, 107* ICL (mine), 110* ICL (Allen). Not 100% sure about Allen's. Might have sacrificed a 'lil top end.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats a possibility. more advanced will gain some torque but yeah, 375lbft at 4000+ rpms is A LOT of torque. at 3000-3500 i bet its well over 400

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Yep, mine was on a 110 degree intake center line. Plus I bet I'm running at least .75:1 more compression. I'm just waiting on Kevin for the next dyno session.

I think he wants to run some Accel large tube runners for comparison purposes. He has already run the highly modified TPI and Superram.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Are you guys gonna run the HSR setup sometime as comparison too? I know burnout91 mentioned he has one now and wants to see how it does compared to the other intakes

Steve Mack

iTrader: (5)

Allen's numbers are very good,he's really got his car dialed in.but for a reality check I have seen in the last two car craft magazines a 25% drive train loss on two well built motors.A big difference from fly wheel horsepower last build was 383 with a comp cams xe282 hydraulic roller 230/236 .510/.520 lift 215 TFS heads 750 barry grant speed demon carb. They had 326 hp 340tq to the wheels.So you have to pick your parts combo very carefully and have a good tune.

Burnout91

Yeah, are you guys gonna run the HSR for comparison? I won't be installing it on my car until probably mid or late November, or as soon as possible after I complete my visit to the inspection center (test only...). But, I would like to start doing some porting and clean-up on the manifold and plenum. Anyway, it's available. No hurries, no worries.
Bill

abray1

There is a magazine that had a challenge (comparison) of all the popular intakes like the miniram and modded tpi etc. This was about four years ago right after the stealth ram came out. I think it was GM high Tech performance magazine. The test car was a white 86 iroc with a 10:1 350. The stealth ram did extremely well and that test pushed me to get one. Mine made 401 hp and 505 torque but the fuel was laying down from 42 at idle to 30 at WOT. Ed Wright tuned it.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

It will be up to Kevin91Z if he wants to try out your HSR Bill. I think there is more work into that swap than the others. With the others he can still use his ported intake manifold.

Burnout91

Alrighty then. I think I hear my die grinder calling.
Bill

PeterFeix

iTrader: (1)

Help

I bought my HSR some days ago as a replacement for the stock tpi intake.

Now I have some questions

First, what extra parts do I need for those 4 Vacuum Ports. I removed the Plugs from my Stock Tpi plenum and found out, that they dont fit.. too small or too big.

Am I correct, that the bigger vac. ports are for PCV + Brake Booster?
In my stock plenum, one of the smaller ones isn't used & has a cap on it, the other one is connected to the throttle body vac.port and i think to the charcoral canister (??).


Second question: Is this sensor at the right place?


Third question: The 2 left ports are too big for the existing sensors in my old intake manifold. Are there any adapters available or do I have to order new sensors? The third hole is only used for other tstat-housings, right?


hmmm.. somewhere i have to bolt my alternator-mount on....
and i currently don't know if i need another clamp to hold my distributor down...

any suggestions?

would be great if someone can provide me the part/order numbers for the missing parts.

hope my post is right in here, seems to match this topic.

thanks in advance
alex

Burnout91

You might find some helpful info at www.stealthram.com. -Bill

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

If Kevin put the HSR on his car, he will need all the fuel lines and other accessories to go with it. This will be a couple of hours to install.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Go to a auto parts store and get some 1/4" barb 1/4 NPT vacuum fitings and some 3/8" barb 3/8 NPT fittings. Yes, the larger ones can be used for PCV valve and brake booster. there is also a fitting under the plenum that can be used as PCV valve line

One of those fittings should be used for the MAT sensor. On a TPI, its underneath the plenum so you can put the MAT under the HSR plenum or in the back of the plenum like i did. Other smaller lines are for the EGR soleniod and fuel pressure regulator


Coolant temp sensor, yes that is a good spot for it. Thats where i have mine. You can put it anywhere on there tho, as there are a few holes

those big ports are for coolant line fittings. Only one is needed tho. you can buy a plug for the other one.

If you are running the factory water valve for the heater core, then you need to run a 5/8" barb 1/2 NPT fitting and 5/8" hose to the watervalve. If you dont use the heater anymore and got rid of that valve, then you can plug that hole as well.

that other small hole does appear to be for thermostat housings

the alternator should mount to the accesory brackets that bolt to the head and block. My 89 also has a bar stabilizer that mounts to the header bolt on the #1 cylinder.

HSR is drlled for two style distributor hold downs. Depends onthe style distributor and clamp. You can reuse factory style clamp and bolt and use the far left one, the hole closest to the passenger side