recently I picked up a used 305 from another camaro for the sole reason that It had a HSR installed on it, came with a holley TB, guessing the 58mm? but not sure, and an adjustable pressure regulator, will post pics later.my question is, What all do I need to do to my ECU in order for it to run right, and what all do I need to take off since the EGR and 9th Injectors are cancelled by the HSR. dont tell me about the search option, I already did that, just making sure my install goes as easily as possible, thanks

 

If you had read and understood the articles then your questions would be more specific.

However, I understand that TGO has tons of material to slog through, and most of it assumes that you would have an understanding of the terms, some of which don't.

I won't mention the install bits, those really all over TGO, I can name 4 or 5 posts all pointing to nearly the same part numbers from summit.

As for the programming, you will either need to have a chip burned, or learn to turn yourself. If you have not the time or inclination to do it, it would be best to at least get a mail order tune.

EGR is a switch in the PCM. The Cold Start Injector is a separate table I think, I've never looked at a Pre 89 tune before. However in later years the fuel that the 9th injector would have injected was worked into the main 8 injector tables. Many people just run the later BIN to eliminate the cold start injector properly.

 

so if I run an 89 bin it should cancel the cold start injector right?

 

your gonna need a totally custom tune... contact ed wright or get the stuff and learn how to do it yourself

 

It can be done. I ran a HSR'd Cammed L98 on a stock bin. It was not pretty, and honestly no faster than stock because it was so out of tune. Timing and fuel was way off.

I agree with the Tune statement. Either make the investment and learn to do it yourself, or pay someone to do it. Not tuning the car will ruin your enjoyment of it.

 

i didnt read it all because im in a rush but when i thru a hsr on my stock l98 didnt need a tune. just had to adjust the timing. ran amazing

 

Great intake!
you will make more of the gain with proper tuning of course.....DO IT!!!!!!!

 

How do you know?

I see this statement a lot. I don't think people have a good grasp of what "amazing" is because they have no basis of comparison, nor a gauge of how well it actually is.

"amazing" means it has the most effective tune producing the most power possible, while also operating properly throughout the power band.

I've bolted stuff together, and have been "amazed" that it started, and ran well enough to pull out of the garage. But I've never built an engine that ran "amazing" without spending time tuning it.


-- Joe

 

You'd be shocked at how much more amazing it would run with a proper tune.

 

alright let me correct my self. i had never ending problems with the tpi. my car ran so much better mpg wise and performance as far as actually getting a power band compared to the stock tpi set up. it was one of the best investments i made on the car. i hate that i sold it. thinking about doing a similar set up for the formula i just picked up but im going to go down the carb road for abit. i was extremely happy with what i got from the hsr swap. very simple todo

 

oh im sure but i mean as far as just throwing it in there and take off it was fine. yeah ab tune would have done wonders for my turd

 

I agree that the price to performance ratio of a HSR swap is worth more than upgrading the TPI.

Consider the cost up upgrading the runners, and base.

I did it too on my old engine and I didn't miss the torque. I don't notice the mid-range loss as compared to my LT1, my LT1 is all go all the time, and it doesn't stop playing at 5000rpm either.

If I had an L98 again, I'd def go with a HSR over upgrading a TPI. Or a mini-ram, but thats more expensive.

 

agreed. if i was to put another engine in there id deff go with lt1. alott of love for the ltjuan

 

TUNE IT!!! i smoked my ecm from it trying to correct fuel and timing. and when i say smoked i mean it caught fire under my dash. do yourself a favor have her tuned.

 

My 89 ran just fine on stock tune with stealth ram. Picked up several tenths in the 1/4 and several mph more on stock tune with nothing more than base timing set to 8 deg instead of 6.

It picked up abit more with a custom tune but all i really did was alter timing curves. That was my beginning to tuning so I didnt know much then. Air fuel was already rich around 12.5 to 1. Leaning it out probably would have made more hp. Eventually I swapped injectors to 24's, corrected the tune for those injectors, then added 1.6 rockers and redyno'd, it was low low 14's to 1 air fuel. So something changed with the addition of rockers and those injectors...different spray pattern and the 1.6 ratio allowing more air in to the motor. Still ran faster than before at the track

 

That my friend, is not possible. hah.

-- Joe

 

How did AE work? I've only tuned an HSR once, but every race intake I've swapped (miniram, singleplane) required dramatic AE changes.

Timing, yeah given. Most swaps resulted in lean part throttle. PE was close mainly because the stock bins run a stupid rich PE.

-- Joe

 

Really, kinda weird because it happened.

 

I agree with anesthes. That's just not possible via software alone. You'd have to screw with the physicL wiring to cause that.

 

I dont recall changing the AE at all. Car felt great. Used the stock TPI TB. The car made 246whp with a mild timing modded bin, nothing really changed for fuel. Then 1.6 rockers/different injectors, and underdrive pulleys later, it made 254whp but was lean at 14.2 air fuel or so. WHen I tore it down the valves were white. So something happened there. More tuning would have easily netted greater gains in power but as it sat, the car went 12.95 at 103.8

heres the 246whp chart. didnt lock the converter until higher mph so the torque didnt come out as strong. Plus the dyno didnt start as low rpm as I wanted but it captured the hp and airfuel. As you can after 5100, these tunes are going rich!


here's the 254whp. locked converter immediately. Air fuel tapered to 14.2 to 1 or so. Was mid 13's to 1

 

im not sure how or why it happend, but it did so its not impossible. my computer prom and all surrounding wires and connectors were distroyed. not sure why i would make something up.

 

It's the internet, people make up stuff all the time. Like others said, it is not possible through software. You probably had a wire short and all the evidence burnt up with the fire.

 

hmmm, the hsr came with 24lb injectors already, so now Im wondering if the 305 had a cam in it or something? ok this info definitely helps guys, stoked to throw the stealth ram in the Iroc already...

 

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=100000272176678&aid=54627#!/photo.php?fbid=203596752992729&set=a.203596732992731.54627.100000272176678&theater

these are pics of the engine and HSR, will post pics of the afpr tomorrow because I have some questions about it

 

Get ahold of pcmforless and get yourself a tune made for it, trust me on this. You'll be much happier with your MPG's and HP afterwards from my experience with them so far.

 

My 350 w/ Sportsman II heads and the comp 276HR cam is so lean at part throttle with stock MAF tables, 24 lb injectors, and 44 psi fuel pressure with the HSR that cruising above 40 mph at very light throttle (0.7-1.0 v TPS) the heated O2 hits zero.... I had run this HSR on a similar engine in the past and it ran similarly. This thing is going to take a LOT of tuning, I would not try putting it on a stock engine if you can't log and burn on your own.

 

what gears are you running?

 

Almost the same combo I ran 10 years ago. 9:1 compression on mine. That was a strong motor.

I got greedy at the track, and it cost me two pistons and an overbore to fix the cylinder damage.

-- Joe

 

I ran it on my stock L98 just fine like i mentioned above. Only after I changed injectors and 1.6 rockers did it go from 12.5 air fuel to 14.3 air fuel. May have been injectors may have been rockers, either way it should run just fine on a stock motor without much tuning.

My friends iroc runs big cam and 190cc heads with stealth ram on stock MAF tables just fine. Only needed WOT tuning. Cruise was all MAF and ran perfect. Idle needed a LITTLE tweaking but thats expected

 

Whats a good injector size? Im going to be throwing on a procharger soon and want to get everything out of it. can i put 60# on now and be ok till i slap the d1sc on?

 

60# is alot for most street cars. How much power do you think you'll be making?

60# would be enough to feed a 650-700hp engine.

 

with all the bolt on's i have with the procharger i should be around 500chp

 

I don't think you'll need 60# injectors unless you plan on going for more than that. I know forced induction setups like more fuel than n/a, but I think 60# would be overkill.

I am expecting about 400-420rwhp with my heads/cam if all is right and I'm only running 30# SVO's at 48psi and even then, its slightly more than I need. A 36# injector will suit my needs. One of they other club members has less head, and a smaller cam and he made 406rwhp. But if I need more fuel I can adjust the FP between 30 and 60psi. I bought a fuel pump that could handle that output just in case.

I kept most of the sizing for my enigne so that i could keep the duty cycle for the injectors around 80%

 

I agree with Thirdgen89GTA. A 36lb injector is probably fine for a supercharged application. I would wait to put them on after the Supercharger tho.LOL

 

im just not wanting to have to change multiple times. cause i will be adding a 383 in the future that is rated at 465 na. so then i would need the 60#. i just basically need to know that even though its over kill right now its not going to hurt anything running them now. with a tune of courst

 

you still would not need injectors that big. Leaner makes more power than rich

 

in fact a 30-36lb injector is probably still overkill for a 383.

 

How is it going to be tuned? Will it use an FMU with the blower to deliver the fueling? Whats the ratio of the pressure rise in the FMU?

With stock to bolt on motor + D1, i'd say 36lb injectors would work with good pressure rise from the FMU. If using a 2-3bar map system and controlling fuel through map tables, then may want to step up to 42's. Should be good to 450-500whp. You can always set them to 58psi and get abit more out of them if you start to go static at those power levels.

With the 383 i'd go 60's. A D1 at 14psi on a good heads/cam 383 will make near 600whp.

With good tuning you should beable to run 60lb injectors no problem on a stock motor, so if you want you can get 60lbs now so you dont have to upgrade again. I like the new thin body Siemens injectors.

 

I run 30lb with a 355 does great.. but its all in the tune!

 

Awesome!! thanks guys. All together i hope to be at 500rwhp before the d1. I hope for big numbers after. i also have big dreams... who dont?

 

You wrote 500chp before, which I took to mean 500hp at the crank.

So which is it? 500RWHP or 500 flywheel HP?

Cuase that would make a difference for sizing injectors.

 

Im hoping for 500rwhp. im using trickflows top end kit that claims 465chp on a 383 with a 650 carb. with my true duals hsr and many! other bolt ons im hoping to be near 500rwhp after its all done. then slapping on the d1. sorry for the confusion should of been more specific. thanks for the help.

Edit: this will not be on the stock l98 just the block... i will be building a 383 at this time.

 

long tubes and HSR wont add another 150 hp... theres a rough chance you will be near 400whp all said and done before the D1 and I bet you dont hit that mark with that top end. Low compression/those heads/that cam wont do it. 465chp is closer to 380whp if your lucky and that already includes a good intake and exhaust. Thats ok, motors designed for boost dont make huge power all motor. Let boost work.

 

That's the plan, I wanted more compression for the power but didn't want to have to change the heads when I boosted. Guess we will have to see. Thanks guys for the help can't wait to start my build!

 

We had a car show at work. brought in a dyno, a guy with a cammed 6.0 swap thought he be huge on power.. needless to say the dyno broke another heart!!! 398whp ... time will tell how things go for ya.. but im with ORR

 

Big dreams on a small budget lol. I'm hoping for one outcome but will expect the most likly.

 

I ran around 560 flywheel HP (supercharged) with 36lbs injectors, and a normal 1:1 regulator set to 50psi at 100kpa. It ran ok until it detonated.

For over 550hp, 42s is probably about right with a blower. A lot depends on how much fuel you are using just to cool the charge.



-- Joe

 

Hate to bring this back from the dead but at least this isn't years old. I'm considering doing an HSR on my relatively stock L98..it'll be the last mod I do for this particular motor. Pretty much all the car will have is the full 3" exhaust. Will just swapping the tpi for hsr really be that noticeable of a mid-range to top end power increase? The low end torque is nice and all but I constantly find myself wanting more up top.

I'm not even worried about gaining hp, if all it does is change my powerband I'd be happy.

 

I can't imagine this being even a little bit worth it. The L98 cam is tiny...I don't think your engine has any top end to gain.

 

L98 cam will peak at 4200-4400 rpm with stock TPI. AFtermarket TPI it may go to 4800, heavily siamesed or HSR/miniram it will peak in the 5100-5200 range. That gives a good bit more "area" under the curve as far as average power.

Dyno numbers may not show huge gains in overall power at peaks and you certainly lose peak torque but gain torque at the midrange and high rpm. You will see better track times tho.

I was able to drop from 13.63 at 97 with stock TPI down to 13.2's at 102 with HSR, pulleys, 1.6 rockers, drag wheels. Abit better air, it went 12.95 at 103.8.

Just the HSR out of the box with no other changes, it went 13.60's or so in the summer, which already matched my best stock TPI times and it did that in hot summer air while my TPI made its best pass in November winter air. Thats a big improvement with just an intake swap.