ok

how many coats of paint do i need?

what kinda sandpaper?

and then how do i buff the finished product?

do i try to stay away from the edges?

 

lots of clear like 5 or so coats of it

Wet 1500-2500 grit on a rubber block with the peice in a constant flow of water at all times.

Well you gotta get a cutting pad with some rubbing compound (any of the 3M rubbing compounds will work. I just started using a 1000 grit on my car tonite and I buffed some of it out with 3M's fine cut)

Then move onto a foam pad and buff out the car with 3M's swirl remover

After that move onto the 3M Hand glaze

Yes stay away from the edges. You will break through the clear if ya do.

Kat

 

ok, i dont think i am getting a clear coat job.............how many color coats do i need?

 

5-10 That should do it

BTW I'd really get a basecoat clear coat of I were you dood. They tend to hold up much much much better than single stage paint

Kat

 

wow, thats a lot of coats.......................

 

if you put 5-10 coats of clear on your car. i have to say. please send me the money instead of buying all that clear. put 2 thick coats( normal coats) and call it good, we painted a corvette for $5,000 just to paint it and we only used 2 coats.
remember the more clear you put down the more you have to sand. no clear will go down perfectly smooth, the show cars that are in the GOLD class are sprayed sanded sprayed sanded and sprayed then final sanded and buffed, but their paintjobs are worth 5,000 and up, most are over 8-10,000. just for paint.
i have worked in the business of painting, fixing and detailing the hell out of cars and i have never seen more than 3 coats of clear put down on a panel.

the flag goes up for those that say 5 or more, and i dont mean to start a fight, but that is a waste of money and time, and he will be sanding for a few hours on each panel.

and yeah you can burn through an edge, but dont be a puss, if you want it too look d*mn near perfect sand near the edge, just buff away from the panel, so the pad spins off the edge not onto the edge and you wont burn through unless you let the pad sit in the same spot for like a week.

anyways, if you mess up, oh well you learned your lesson, and if you painted it just paint it again, and if you didnt paint it, have the guy who did buff it, HE KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING, he painted it.

and you dont need a constant flow of water just have a wet surface, i use to spray the panel with a bottle, then dip the paper in a bucket of water and just sand, till i got all the dirt nibs, or imperfections out then california blade dry it, then buff with a wool pad, and then foam pad it, if it was a dark car, hand glaze. thats it, not a big deal. real easy real fast.
just takes practice

 

wow man, where the hell have you been?

yeah, well anyways, i'm obviously going to maaco again
because:

1) had good results with them already
2)i dont have no where near that much money
3)all of the above

:lala:

and if anybody tells me to save for a $5000 paintjob, please dont comment because you dont know my financial situation and its none of your business

(this wasnt directed at anyone yet)

besides, i am going to be racing and be beating the **** out of this car, so last thing i need is a scratched $5000 paintjob

i have also seen a car that had its color changed at a local maaco

looked great

my paintjob is 2 years old already.......still looks great

I'M NOT ASKING WHETHER OR NOR I SHOULD GO TO MAACO IN THIS POST

I AM ASKING: how many coats do i need to haggle them for in order for me to be able to colorsand the car when i get it home

 

ok sorry for sounding so mean.............


honestly, i cant afford anything better than maaco

and if i could, my LG4 would remain a 17 second car

thanx for understanding