one picture...

Another one... here you can see where I used rubbing compound on the car in one spot... took forever to get that little bit up... still looks like crap though.

It started to drizzle when I was taking these, thats what those spot are BTW...

I should also mention... this paint is a PITA to wax!

you should use some PERFECT IT III extra fine cut rubbing compound, from 3M. use a buffer with a foam pad. then put some hand glaze on it. that should look better than new.

I'll give it a try!

i would have said try on a small spot nd wet sand it with 2000 girt and then use the 3m Perfect It III and then the hand glazing and it sound look good. just try it on a small spot were most people wont look for it. and make sure u have the sand paper wet constantly.

If the paint is just oxidized, hand glaze is all it should take. If the paint is checked & cracked, or badly damaged, nothing is going to help. When it's that bad you might as well start using armor-all on it instead of wax.

Here's what my IROC looked like when I got it. These pictures show pretty accurately how faded the paint was:


Here's what it looked like after I buffed it. Hand glaze, or at least some mild rubbing compound, then hand glaze, will achieve the same thing:


Most of the nose was done by hand, except for the big flat spots. Of course, on those spots I managed to burn through the paint with the buffer, which is why I'd suggest doing it by hand unless you're already very good with a buffer. I've buffed plenty of cars, and I still did mine in.

I know how you feel, mine has oxidized quite bad, where it's been sitting for a while. Here's a pic. It's a lot worse now though, the pic is about a year old! You see the oxidization on the hood? It's like that on the whole car now!

Hehe must be the Purple 92 RS V6, here's my pic of the good side, the bad side has clearcoat chips

THANK YOU SO MUCH! Thank you for giving me hope that my paint isn't totally gone!!!

I went out today and got this #7 White Polish stuff... I followed the direction on the can, and sure enough with a little bit of patience and elbow grease the paint is like new!!! All the water marks are gone, the paint is -deep-!!! I have half the roof done... with a coat of Meguiars Gold Class wax (Which goes on much easier now) it looks amazing!

I'll post updated pics as soon as I can! Perhaps I won't need a paintjob... I'll just go out and buy IROC rims and have the silver racing stripes put on over the existing paint!

It's amazing how much depth the paint has... totally full and rich and smooth!

Thank you again!

Hey man, you're parked on the wrong side of the road!

Erik,

You wanna buy my car and save some trouble? Hey when are you comming up here for college? I could take a day on the weekend and help ya. Then you can help me look for a new car.

You know what? Driving a left-hand-drive car on the left side of the road feels so natural. It's really cool pulling up and getting out onto the pavement (sidewalk?) too.

Your usually ok until it delaminates. That means it has gotten thru the clear coat. Then the paint is no longer sealed and you have problems. Thats when it has to be stripped back down to primer and resealed then repainted. If you got it to buff out and it still looks good. You are prob fine, I would just keep it well waxed and under a cover when it is parked. That will help it last longer. But get it painted if you notice it has gone thru the clear coat. Once its thru the clear coat rust follows rather quickly.

mines like 10 times worse... i need some money, a) new paint and rims(hope the parents will help with this, especially since they said they would, but they are parents what can i expect) and b) i wana build a 350, go buy the block out of a totaled car or somethin and build it up.... and while i'm in highschool b will most likely not happen and a i'm hopin i can atleast get rims, my paint looks good from a distance except for one spot below the gas tank where it's peelin, should i peel the clear coat off or not? thanks and if u find some ingenious cure plz post

Xenodrgn arrgg if I knew you were having paint probs I was over in Toms River for the past few days. I could of brought a few 3M things for ya to try out on yer car..

Kat

Sorry kat... it's no big deal... like I said it's all buffed out now, and it looks like I still have some clearcoat... however I noticed it chipped in one spot... I'll go out next weekend and get some sealer for it...

Twiztid, how much do you want for your car? Last I heard you got an offer for 9G's... wayyyy too over my head.... I've got about 50 bucks to throw around.

BTW, I'm at college now, NJIT (Newark) so if you wanna chill, just gimme a shout out, alright?

Slater.

well that was just for that kid i am going to put it for 7 and hopefully get 6 for it. i am still going to rpaint it so i get the chips out. the system is going to be sold with the car. and ill just get a new one for my LS1

A little info for you guys, when filling up your gas tank, make sure not to get ANY on the car. The guy that owned the car before me didn't care and now I am in need of alot of metal. How much is it to replace rear 1/4? I will probably need it done by a prof because I don't have a welder or the tools to take off the old one. I need both of them done, there is rust by the wheel well and the side light.

ill prolly get flamed for saying this but what about a cheap macco job

s long as you do the prep work your self, macco may not be to bad of an idea. As long as you know it will only last about 3-5 if you take care of the paint the right way. And if you prep the car good enough. I am thinking about spray canning it, it would look alot like a macco paint job, wont it?!?!?!?!

You have a point there. Let the passenger worry about getting nailed!