The point is that it wastes other members time and it gets threads closed. That does not help the community as a whole. So it isn't just me and my feelings. This is for everyones benefit. But you have already stated that common Courtesy for others is out of the question for someone like you. So if that is so you will have to deal with others here not being nice to you.
Maybe because you answered it like this:
...
I was never talking about the remote window controllers I was talking about the window motors themself. I assume they activate your existing power window motor and engage it to roll down the window. And if the window motor in the car is as old as the car, it is probably on its last leg. So I would hate for my way in to be contingent on a piece of factory equipment that is old and prob worn out. Now if you replace them fine, or if you have after market ones, fine. They will prob last for another 10 years. They are just a bigger pain to replace, in my car, then the door popper solenoid.
As I stated before, over and over!
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...133#post951133 Hey you wanted to know why, so I refered you!
Why? Should it?

 

Figures. A liar to boot.

S.

 

bwahahaha and this is coming from a guy who just says his dad had a chopped 32? stop while you are ahead.

gee i seem to have different values than you.

that's a great point. but there's a lot of steel bodied oh lets say 40 fords that have very heavy doors. fiberglass is oldschool in the street roddin community. u almost get laughed outtta shows with fiberglass bodies nowadays.

when did i say that i cared what other people said to me?

yes - - ->
___

shut up

 

I went for autoloc for the door poppers and SPAL for the power windows. I got the 50 lb. solenoids, cause it was the same price as for the 30 lb. ones, and I have to say they are total overkill. Don't let them tell you that you have heavy doors and that you need a bigger solenoid, because the weight/size of the door really has nothing to do with it. The solenoid just pulls on the latch, which allows the door to open. Of course, you could always go with the biggest ones you find if you're into that bigger is better mentality. I personally get a kick out of the big thud they make when the doors open. Don't bother getting the actual poppers either, you won't need them and you have to put like a 1/2" hole in your car to mount them.
My advice would be to run a 10 gauge wire from the battery into the the passenger footwell. Then have a distribution block cause you have to run a wire to each solenoid, and then if you want to add power windows you have to tap into the power for the solenoid for the driver's side switch.
But it's definently worth it. I've gone from having completely manual doors to all power. Now there's just a power window switch and a little red button to open the door and that's it. It's a little weird cause people get into the car and they go, "wait, how I do I get out?" I'll try and get some pics of my new door panels up so you can see them. Hopefully it'll put all those with modified stock panels to shame

 

I don't know what the VPA solenoid is rated at, but the poppers are 25lbs. Yep, I had to drill a 1/2 in hole in the door to mount it, but it was the easiest part of the whole process. My mom thought I was nuts though. The 25lb poppers pop the door just enough to get your fingers in the jam. Keeps me from worrying about smacking a car in the parking lots.

 

where did you end up mounting the poppers? I'd like my doors to pop open more than they do now, cause you have to grab it and pull it open before the solenoid releases. I figured the that when I replaced the weather stripping that it would provide enough added force, but I really want it to pop 2-3". The only spot on the body that looked like it might work was in the door frame right by where the seat belt bolts in.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by z28_dave

Quote:

when did i say that i cared what other people said to me?

more or less with this statement....

Quote:

wow with rude realisations like this one, its no wonder u and joe (?) get flamed.
after these useless comments above, ill try and save this thread with some more info rather than attacks on individuals (ie: me).

and this one...

Quote:

shut up

so quaint!

Quote:

yes - - ->

That is in his sig not mine. Something in someone elses sig has nothing to do with me, so again why would your phrase bear any significance for me.

Hey Joezero, I would love to see pics of your door panels!

 

:lala: :lala: :lala:

 

LMFAO!!!!!!

Shannon, this is a pic from the manufacturer of the door panel covered in blue tweed and on like a 32 ford. The panels actually come as black ABS and then you trim to fit. It's too bad that I had to extend the panel by a couple of inches, cause the texturing on it is an exact match to the interior panels. But it's got a big glue seam at one end so it's gonna have to get covered. I tried black vinyl, but it doesn't contour well enough, so I'm gonna go to a specialty store today and see what else I can find. I'm going to visit my friend this weekend and he's got a digital camera, so hopefully I'll get pics up at the beginning of next week.

 

With it trimmed it looks more like this, only it's a bit longer.

 

Well I replaced my weather stripping and it actually makes this door hand up. The driver side is fine, but I'm having issues with eh passenger side. You can see how the weather strip is pulling at the top under teh door sill.

You see the silver thing below the door latch in the door jam area (small in the pic) That is it! Works great there!

 

That is wild looking. When we redo my Scout, I want to go all out in the interior. Custom panels and Fiberglass Dash....The bed area we are going to do in wood. I can't wait to just start form scratch and go wild!

 

Hey thanx for answering some of my q's guyz!And doesnt it feel good to talk about the actuall thread topic! (lol) Well,i ordering the kit tommorow.Its supposed to take 1 to 2 week to get here.Im ordering the SPAL 35Lb kit for $225 Canadian.Cant wait till it gets here.Ill see if i can borow a digi cam for some before and after pics!Thanx again and i cant wait to see those panels joezero!

 

youre a ***

 

Yeah well, my dad can beat up your dad.........so there......

 

my dad is dead

 

:lala: :lala: :lala:

 

someone has way too much time on their hands

 

FLYNLOW92rs :sillylol: Thats too funny!

 

Ah Ha Ha Ha,

 

wow *clap clap clap* you can post pictures.

****en geniuses

 

hey look what i can do too

 

Are you getting the message that people here are going to treat you the way you treat others? If you insist on being an assh*le, you'll be treated like one. Don't want to conform, as you say? Fine. Just don't bitch about it when people retaliate. I would think that the pictures you're seeing posted are far better than the punch in the mouth you'd get in person.

 

This thread's had it coming for a while...

I am officially....

POOPING ON THIS THREAD!!!

 

im not so shut up.

bwhahaha id love to come see you try pal

 

ok mr.cool

 

A few of you guys on here need to just relax and go fight some where else. And it would also help if a couple of you thought before you posted,

My dad is dead, and yes it was by suicide, and when i come on here to learn about cars i dont need to be reminded of that.

you want some thing to post, get you camera and post some pics of what the topic is on, I know that there was no way that you would have known my past but at least be considerate and think about other peoples feelings before you start tossing insults.



Back on topic,

I shaved the handles on my car, sorry have no pics, I chose not to weld on my doors but to just skin the whole thing, i was reccomended this by a friend of mine who owns a body shop, just because it is so easy to warp a long door like we have.
( tip on welding thin steel--- place cold wet rag on all sides of where you are welding, it will absorb the heat and stop the warping)
As for the poppers, i got an autoloc kit, and it came with everything i needed, 35lb solenoids, all the relays, and the brain with 2 remotes and a hidden emergency button. I have not had a problem but i have also not used them when it was below 32*f. If you already have power unlock by remote, you can buy the solenoids and the relays and wire up the relays so that the factory unlock will trigger the relay and that will trigger the poppers. If you have anymore questions i will be glad to help because i have done this a few times now.

Bradford

 

Thanks for getting things back on topic black82z, I was beginning to wonder why I was even still subscribed to this thread.

Out of curiosity, where is everybody mounting the emergency switch? I was thinking of putting it in the little glove box in the trunk, cause I just don't feel safe mounting it somewhere where people could get to it (like right under the door).

Also, on my door panels, they're part cloth part vinyl, and I need to put something on it to cover up the seam, any suggestions? Thanks, Joe

 

hey thats not that bad an idea,in the rear lock box!How much did ya pay for the autoloc kit?i see your from good ol canada...me too!

 

I wasn't gonna say rice, I was gonna say it looked like a F*king Space ship!

Anyways! j/k, shave the handels, but at some drag strips its a NO NO

 

No no you did it all wrong you have to do something like this.



AAAAAAAAHAHAHAHHahahahahah........

 

those are some funny pics

 

I paid $199 for my kit, but it's the 50 lb. solenoids, which was total over kill. But it was the only type that they had, and it cost less than the 35lb kit if I got it direct from autoloc. And I'm not from canada, I'm from california, sorry.

 

In regards to the ppl that are posting pics of excriment, this is a message board about cars, it's not those fetish websites that you're usually on. With that in mind, here are some pics that might be a bit more helpful.

 

from the top.

 

I'm not real thrilled about the silver trim, but I needed something to cover up the seam. If anybody has any suggestions for something else, please let me know.

 

Try maybe some black trim....

Or maybe the color of your car, or blue from the looks of your neon lights........

 

On mine when I added the nauga soft, I used red to transition b/w the grey and black. So you could use a contrasing trim color, or if you wanted it to blend in I would use black satin rope, like for necklaces. Typically you can get it from a hobby shop, but Walmart carries the stuff. Word of warning, don't pull it taut as you tack it down, once its in the car and the sun gets to it it will not stretch with the panels and it tends to pull out of place. I just laid mine down a bit loose it can stretch out with the panel.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to try a black trim. I wanted to do the whole panel in blue, but I couldn't find any fabric that matched the blue that's already in the interior, so I figured I'd go with black. For those that are interested, this is a pic of the solenoid installed in the door. The little black box is the relay for the solenoid, and all the other wires/switches are for the power windows.

 

Thanks for that last pic joezero.Really shows how an where the solenoid is mounted!Ive got my new doorz and the kit is ordered...now all i need to do is install!

 

I'm not against the whole idea about the shaving door handles I'm just afraid the door might freeze shut in the winter or the key batteries die and you cant get in your car. The motor goes bad and dosnt pop...something like that.

 

Glad it helped, Lowcamaro. If you need pics of anything else, just let me know. I just got a digital camera and I'm going picture crazy.

 

JoeZero,what is it you are using that runs from the solenoid to the claw release(or whatever its called)Looks like a zap strap in the pic.

 

Oh and when you filled the door locks and handle holes,did you weld in a plate and the bondo over top or did ya fill the entire thing with body filler?

 

It's actually a steel cable with little metal clips that you crimp on. I wish it was something more like zip ties, cause that'd be easier to work with, although I'm sure they wouldn't hold up. And I haven't taken off the lockset/handle on the outside yet. I'm planning on having the whole car repainted, so I'm holding off doing it until I'm read to have the paint done. Although I wouldn't try and fill the whole thing with body filler. I had actually asked a while ago about using fiberglass, and was advised against it because you're trying to bond two dis-similar surfaces and it would eventually split.

 

I thought I'd post some new pics of the door panels in the car. Man, people really do freak out when they can't figure out how to open the door.

 

2

 

Hmmm,then i wonder what i should do...I was planning on going with a piece of sheet metal and tacking it into the holes and then putting the body filler over it.But...i dont have a welder any more!Hmm,i wonder if i could bond them with JB weld?RedRaif...what did you do?
JoeZero,those door panels are sweet!

 

Here's what LT1guy had posted earlier about how they did redraif's car. I thought I'd repost it since it was way at the beginning, and it was probably lost amongst all the bickering above.

 

Redraif's are welded, but I did want to mention that lots of bodyshops are using a panel adhesive now that supposedly is as strong as a weld, without the possiblity of warping the panel. I haven't used it personally, but I may experiment with it a little. One of my street rod magazines had an article where they put larger fins (steel) on a 1950s car, using the adhesive, and they swore by it as a good alternative to welding for non-structural reapirs or modifications.