Bad406Z

I just read a article on this and am now interested. Anyone ever do this? What grits should I start and end with? Any help is greatly appreciated!

BTS88IROC

where did you read an article like that? I don't think the paint would last very long like that, everytime you buff it you are going to be taking off part of the paint.
And how are you going to know when your all the way through the clear coat and to paint?

Matt427

It would be impossible to remove all the clear coat without sanding through the color coat in some areas no matter how careful you are. But let's say you could somehow magically remove the clear coat, it still wouldn't work. The base coat (color coat) in a two stage paint job will not perform like a single stage paint. It will not buff to a very glossy shine, and what little shine you did get out of it wouldn't last long at all. The base coat depends on the clear coat for it's gloss and durability.

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

yeah...not to sure if that would work. When my dad repainted his 63 Impala SS.....he used Laquer.......and didn't clear coat it.......he just wetsanded the raw laquer......and buffed it.......the paint is still on the car and has been on there for about 23 years.....and it looks fantastic....show room shine.....but after years and years of polishing......the paint has lighten up a little.....so....I think we are about to repaint it again....but....I don't think it would work with base clear paints.....

91Zman

Funny you should mention this,I did it to the roof of my Z but it was due to living in a hurricane area. You see back in august,I think,hurricane isedore had passed to the left of new orleans but high winds hit us.Well my clearcoat had bee pelling a little by the that rainguard thingy on the passenger side.Well the next day I go out to see if there was any damage to my car and sure enough there was.The high winds had blown that small peeling patch up and made my roof look like a giant bubble.Well I just peeled it the rest of the wat off.So now I have what looks like faded paint and a tearline where the clearcoat is still on the sailpanel part of the roof.

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

So....it's about time for a repaint isn't it? My paint on my 91 ZEE is in really good shape.....just the top of the fenders has faded just a lil..but since I have to paint my hood...(and adding those fender louvers)..I'm going to go ahead and repaint my whole dog house...but....I'm using acrylic enamel...wish I knew how to do fireflames!....

91Zman

Yep,time for a repaint.Funny thing that I tried is this liquid wax that removes oxidation and it turned the pinkish faded area back to red.You see,the idiot who owned the car before me had put clearcoat over the faded paint! I put a drop of that stuff on the faded area and it buffed out red again.:lala:

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

You can buff the base coat all you want... it won't get shiny. The base coat of a 2 stage paint (i.e. base coat & clear coat = 2 stage paint) will not get shiny no matter what you do to it.

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

has anyone on here tryed any lacquer paints?

Bad406Z

OK, Thanks to all thats why I asked.

Freeze

true. i tried it on my wing where the clear coat is dead. it is at the paint shop right now.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

What do you want to know about it? It's great for a show car because it can be buffed to a mirror finish, but it's brittle as hell and will not hold up to daily driving. It's also illegal to buy in some states because of the smog *****.

2-stage urethane paint jobs can look as good as lacquer and are substantially more durable.

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

Alright, for get about lacquer....anways..my car right now has base clear on it. I'm going to be repainting my fenders, hood, and nose with enamel. If I rough up the clear......(there are no breaks in the clear) is it ok to shoot enamel over the clear or does the clear have to be taken off? In my autobody class back in highschool....it was fine when we did it like that...(shot enamel over clear)...but..I just want to make sure there would be no reactions of anything......

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

As long as it's prepped properly you can paint over the existing finish.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

Just a note to anyone who may be thinking about using lacquer...it WILL react with any non-lacquer paint underneath, causing severe cracking in a very short time. Besides, its really only used for restorations anymore...its not nearly as UV resistant as modern paints.

redraif

Base coat is dull. I watched mine go on and it was wild seeing it go from wet and shinney to dry and dull. Plus 2 stage paints rely on the clear coat to give UV protection and seal out moisture. You take away that barrier and you are asking for potential rust and dull faded paint, esp if you go thru the base coat anywhere. Just bite the bullet and go for a decent repaint.