Just thought I'd post a picture of some of the stuff I got powder coated. The crossmemeber was teh first thing I"ve ever done so there is some flaws on top of the spring mounts, but you'll never see those. I'll also be doing my A-arms,swaybar spindles, etc.

Let me know what you think.

Josh

 

Nice work, your oven must be bigger than mine. What color is that, and how long did you cook it @ what temp?

 

Looks real good.

 

looks great.

 

that looks vary nice...

 

What's one of those ovens run$$$?? I know how it works but do you spray the stuff on before baking like paint. I thought it was the metal bonded to the metal to form the coat.

 

Large ovens are very expensive. Your spray it on in a powder form before putting in the oven, then put it in the oven, and it begins to flow into a liquid form, then the 350-400 degrees cures it making it harder. It comes out looking like the above, and very very strong. If he decides to strip that K-member... well, I wish him good luck.

I haven't found anything that'll easily strip powder coating yet.

 

That's how i thought it worked.

 

a grinder w/a tuff wire wheel will work to remove stuff. takes a long long time, but that is the best way to get it off.

Josh

 

Yea, that works pretty well, but very time consuming. Flat surfaces it'll work great, but in between runners, where the flange meets the runner spot, it can be a pain.

There is some paint stripper made by Mar-hyde that works pretty good, dipping items in it, will strip anything! But brushing it on works only so great.

Just incase you were curious....

 

We've got some of the Mar-hyde stuff as well as some of the RM brand thinners. Each softens it up pretty well when the part is dipped. The really stubborn stuff only comes off with either wire wheels or black oxide in the blasting cabinet.

Have you ever had to strip a two or three stage color part that's been coated??? After finding a tiny flaw in a show piece aluminum 24V V6 valve cover I was doing, I had 8 hours of dipping and blasting into it before it came clean!!!

 

Yea, it only works so well. I'm curious about the black oxide in the cabinet however? What can I find out more about that, because I know glass won't cut it. It takes for ever.

 

looks good.
Black oxide/ or alum okide workds great. I'll pre bake all my parts after I clean em just to make sure anything left burns off.
I also have a 55gal. drum of carb cleaner that i can soak parts in. Works great.

 

So all you need is an oven and the powder stuff???? If that is the case, I will go buy an old oven right now!!!!!!!!!

Steve

 

Steve,

Pretty much, but a bead blaster is very very helpful.

 

Yeah, the old ovens are pretty cheap. Either find one on the side of the road waiting for the junk man to come by, or go to a mission house and buy one of theirs for $50-$100.

The Easwood company sells their entry level coating system for $149 IIRC, then there's the Caswell Plating company's one too for about the same price.

After that, then you start getting into custom made ovens, infrared lamps, infrared pyrometers, higher flow diffuser tips... this stuff gets addicting!!!

Here's one of my favorite pieces we've done since we got ours. It's a Nissan 22B valve cover in translucent blue with raised sections polished out to bare aluminum...

 

Then here's a red 2.5L Duratec V6 valve cover in translucent red...

 

Translucent red looks great. I haven't got to play around with that one yet. I've messed with gloss red, I did my lower control arms in them. The majority of what I use is almost always almost chrome. Seems to be the best seller.

 

Yeah, we use the crap out of almost chrome, but mostly as a base for the translucent colors... The translucents take on an almost annodized look over the almost chrome. over bare metal it depends on how the metal was prepped or polished... We've even done some wicked looking translucent colors over black or other colors to give them a tinted look.

Translucent purple over black with the metal flake added into the top coat was just done on a 24valve V6 dual runner intake for a friend of mine. I'll be getting some pics of that one, it's freaking awsome!!!

Unfortunetly, the translucent colors don't show up as well in pictures as they do in real life... The T-red above was coated over bare sand blasted aluminum, while the T-blue one above it was over almost chrome... The blue one was really much, much brighter than the pictures could be made to reflect on screen...

 

Here's a few more things I have pics of here at work... A chrome Ford TB...

 

T-red SC tubes, pulley, and MAF

 

And a translucent purple over almost chrome sample piece of scrap metal... Heck, I coated our garden tools this color too because I was so addicted to coating things!!!

I highly reccomend getting one of these systems set up!

 

Very nice work...both of you!!!

 

Nice pic's I have tons here

www.cecoatings.com/images/coatedparts

tons more to upload just need to get off my *** and do em and redo my pos site.

 

I know what you mean... to much stuff to coat, not enough time to take pictures and/or post them! LOL! I've got two discs burned full of snomobile parts that I've coated alone!!!

 

damn! they look great.