sanding, priming questions
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 173
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From: Appleton
Car: 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 (350) TPI
Transmission: soon to be 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt rear. gears? hell if i know
sanding, priming questions
I recently got a 88 Formula 350, this is what it looks like now. I am really young and have no idea what grit i am to start with and how deep ect. ect. The guy started working on it but didn't finish it. I want to get started but don't know where to start lol. any help is appreciated as always. you guys make these boards what they are.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Huber Heights, OH
Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Get a halfway-decent dual-action sander and some sanding discs and sand the body enough to scuff it up so that it's a lighter, dull color. You don't need to strip it to metal.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Kansas
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: Built 350 Cam, Headers
Transmission: 5 speed
If all you want to do is rough it up to paint, use a 400 or 600 wet paper.If you are wanting to go down to the primer or metal, you will need a heaver paper.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 173
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From: Appleton
Car: 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 (350) TPI
Transmission: soon to be 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt rear. gears? hell if i know
it has an engine, and i plan on getting it professionally painted. so i want it to look good or original. there is also a dent on the rear tire well, you can't see it but its bad, how much would i expect to pay to get that out? there are a series of dents it looks real bad and is probably 8 inches across. im thinking i can wait on the dent after i finish sanding.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Gallup, New Mexico
Car: '89 IROC-Z Convertible & '91 RS
Wet sand with 400-600 grit paper. Most efficient way is to use a block sander. Takes alot of elbow grease, but hey, that's body work. Now about the dents...you're gonna need to use the DA sand paper and take it all the way down to the metal. The reason for this is to use nails to yank out the dents. The welding nails will only stick if it's on the bare sheet metal...Also, it's good to use BONDO on the bare metal as well. Never use bondo over a painted surface. Good luck buddy.
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Last edited by MetalliCamaroRS; Aug 27, 2003 at 01:23 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
i was thinking, if you wanted to remove all the paint to the bare metal, would a wire brush wheel( on a grinder) be sufficient? keep in mind they do sell them with different gauge wire.
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From: N.Battleford
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: T5
dont use a wire brush, itlll just scratch up the metal so deep that youll have problems down the road.
I recommend 150 GRIT sandpaper to get to bare medal and then 250 GRIT wetsanding, enough to get it smooth yet rough enough to give the primer something to stick to
I recommend 150 GRIT sandpaper to get to bare medal and then 250 GRIT wetsanding, enough to get it smooth yet rough enough to give the primer something to stick to
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