I wet sanded with 600, 800, 1000 and 1500. Then I used Megauir's Step 1 paint cleaner, then Megauir's Gold Class wax, then some polish all with an orbital buffer.

But I can't seem to get the fine scratches out of it. They look good from about 10 feet away, but when you get on top of it, you can see all of the fine scratches in it.

How do I get rid of them? I've sanded them down twice already and did the polishing process twice as well.

 

Noone?

 

I assume you are polishing the glass right?

If you are.. I never would have used the rougher grits to begin with. The only way to finish up glass after you sand it, is to use Cerium Oxide. JC Whitney sells a kit with a polishing wheel.

It takes a LONG time, but you should be able to get it to where you want to. Just don't overheat and warp the glass.

I am about to polish my front windshield. I have the Cerium Oxide, but I have alot of pitting from sand or something on my windshield. I need to wet sand it down with some 1500+ grit.

 

He has a 91, so it's plastic he is polishing.

 

*shudders*

Lexan t-tops..

My 86 and 89 are both glass.

 

Yeah, the lexan tops, altough they weigh a TON less than the glass, need way more maintainence. The glass tops on the other hand never really need attention.

 

Ok, since its a type of plastic.. would it be beneficial to polish them the same way you polish taillights?

here's a link to the faq board about polishing taillights.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=221917

 

i have an 91 rs and it came with glass t-tops when i bought it are those stock or did the owner replace them for glass?

 

From my previous experience buffing & polishing scratches out of plastic and lexan. There is inevitably some distortion in the area of the scratch removal process. The deeper the scratch, the worse the distortion. Just a thought!!!!!!!!

 

They are plastic everybody. I'm working on the second one now and I've got it sanded down really nicely, but it's starting to rain, so I've put it back on the car.

What I wouldn't give for a garage!

 

Not followin' ya there buddy.

 

Think of a lense for eye glasses. It is not one consistant thickness. Your scratch is a certian depth and your t-top is a certian depth. By removing a portion of the plastic to remove the scratch you will have one part of the lexan thats thinner than other areas. It creates a concave or convex image depending on if you look in or out of the t-top. This will be represented as distortion. The more plastic removed and the more of an uneven effect. Also too much heat in a certian area will cause the plastic to distort as well. Do you have a Novus glass shop near you?? They sell a 3 step plastic process designed specifically for polishing plastics. It works amazing on CD's tail lights, I-tech visors in hockey, ect.The first step is for very deep scratches, the second step is for light scratches and polishing and the third step is a fine polish, haze remover and antifog agent. If used correctly it works like a charm.

 

Never heard of it. Do they have a website?

 

http://www.novuspolish.com/

 

Well I know one thing for sure... don't put the wax on before polishing.

 

Why not?

 

Because the polish is an abrasive and is used to physically smooth out the paint. Wax is used to fill in any imperfections left behind and then you buff the wax to make it smooth. When you do a perfect polishing job, you don't need wax; you just keep the car clean.

This is probably why you see scratches, because you're using the polish last and it's on top of a layer of wax. You'll want to clean off the wax that's on there, polish it, and then wax it again. Use an orbital buffer on the wax to get it perfect.

 

Curious as to what that has to do with removing scratches from the T-Top lexan panels.