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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 09:54 PM
  #51  
irocbirdbuilder's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Thornton colorado
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI
Transmission: 700r4
wow nice front end, rear end, top end, ohhh the car lol girl looks good and the car loosk bitchin. I need to meet up with you sometime i'm out in aurora. Want to get soem folks together to meet up with flyinlow when he comes through town. What show was that for? and where at?
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 11:36 PM
  #52  
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From: MO
alright man...we need some e.t.'s and some mph's!!!
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 11:46 PM
  #53  
Tobias05's Avatar
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From: any clime or place...
Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
Originally posted by IROCFAST
alright man...we need some e.t.'s and some mph's!!!
:lala:
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Old Jun 6, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #54  
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From: MO
Tobias05, did I miss something?
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 10:50 AM
  #55  
GOFASTER's Avatar
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From: Colorado Springs
Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
Originally posted by pasky
Ah, nice to see another green around the boards. Whats your MOS? I was a 11B for about 3 years, went to ft. benning for training, went to sniper school in fort benning (38/40 BRM baby!) and was stationed in benning lol. The hill was one hell of a party place there. I love colorado.

Yes, another green for sure, however, only active duty for 11 more months... Then I am off to the reserves and back to the civilian life again...

My MOS is 19A, I am an officer, 1LT (P). I make CPT in about 6 months. I have been in the Army for coming up on 8 years now. I spent 5 years enlisted as a 63B (light wheel mechanic), made SGT (E5) then went OCS after finishing my college degree. My MOS is Armor Officer. However, after the war, I got injured and now work behind a desk for the rest of my military active time.



E.T's........................... Where do I start. First let me say this I AM FU@#ING PISSED!!!!!!!!!!!! I got a set of slicks off ebay, for $20, hoping I could finally race (as I talked about earlier in this post). So, I get them mounted and go tot he track in Pueblo. I spend the day getting ready, spend the money to get my number for the year, pay the race fees, get the high octane gas, I did everything to get ready to race. I switch my street tires off for my slicks in the pits, go to the line to race for my first time ever in this car (now remember I spend 2 years building this to race, this had been a long time coming). Well, the track crew will not let me run the slicks because they look wrong or something (warped or something like that). Bottome line, I had did all that to race and now could not run with slicks. Bad thing when you have this much power... So I decided to run with my street tires since I had gotten ready anyway. BAD IDEA!!!! I spun through all 3 gears. My 60' time was 2.568 or something close to that My 1/4 mile time, without slicks, spinning all the way through, at this dam 5000 feet altitude was a lousy 14.55 @ 93 MPH

I cannot curse enough... I was so dam mad, I about kicked my car to death. I packed up and was ready to go home, when I decided to race on more time. Again, same thing but wrose, about 1/8 of the way down, my car starts dying out, like it was not getting fuel, and that is just what happened. My AFPR went out and my car was getting like 2 PSI to the carb

Top that off with about 2 hours before I went racing, my new truck I bourhg (not new, but new to me a nice shortbed silverado 1982) I plan on jacking up as a daily driver broke down on the side of the road about 10 miles from my house.

And let me not forget, on my way home it was very dark and I ran over some dam pot hole that messed up my exhuast that hangs low, dragged it accross the road, just making this not good loud sound under myt baby.

I went home and wanted to light the car on fire and kill myself. I realized that before I can EVER race again, I need NEW Mickey ET drags and a new fuel set up (all brand new from tank, pump to AFPR).... AND MY NOS SYSTEM.... I cannot see them times again, it just sucked. This car dynoed at 520 HP at 5700 RPM, and 505 ft lbs TQ at 4500 RPM, them time are not good for that much power. NO SLICKS, NO RACING!!! I am better now, and I have the drawing board out again, getting my ideas down on paper for my next bolt on fuel system, NOS system (200 shot) and my new slicks. I hope to finish that by the end of the summer (money is tight now), so I can get at least 1 more race day in before winter.

Sorry for the long post, just had to vent to people that understand. I told my woman this and she just yelled at me, said I don;t need to spend more money on the car, that I should just sell it and pay off my bills (needless to say I about killed her also).


DAM THE LUCK!
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 01:10 PM
  #56  
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From: MO
GOFASTER, check into some ET streets or something similar that is DOT approved. If it is DOT approved alot of the safety rules that apply with slicks do not apply with them, not that safety is not a good thing, it just may save you some headaches. Also, they will hook just as good. The new M/T drag radials actually hook as good as the ET drags, check out car crafts website, there is an article on this. It is a real bummer what happened to you, sometimes it seems no matter how hard you try things do not work out. How could they determine that they were warped? Work on your launch techniqe with those street tires, don't get them scorching hot, roll around the water and do a quick spin to clean them off. I pulled a 2.2 60ft with mine and I have a 5spd. I think mine makes close to the hp yours does but not as much. I have ran 12.4 @ 118 on pep boys tires. Get that thing back together and let us know what happens. GOOD LUCK!!!
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 02:20 PM
  #57  
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Joined: May 2000
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From: Colorado Springs
Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
I am going to get the older ET streets, that are DOT approved, I like them and they don't cost as much as the ET drags. Also, I am SURE they hook just as well, if not better. Yes, I read the article in HOTROD about the new ET drag radials, they seem to hook better than any of MT's other slicks, so I am looking into them. I bet they cost more however, so I may stick with the ET streets.

I don't plan on EVER running with street tires, so getting my launch down with them is pointless, however, my launch with the slicks will be worth working on, again, I have that down, just not as well with the new car. Once I get better slicks I will get new times.

They said my old slicks were messed up because when I drove they waboled some (sp)... whatever, I guess better safe then sorry. I am sick with anger from this past Friday, nevertheless, I will have my revenge within 2-3 months (I hope that fast). I am shooint for lowe 12's on motor alone, and mid 10's with the NOS set up. I will not stop until I reach that goal. For a slow POS she still is the best looking 3rd gen in this state.
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 04:11 PM
  #58  
pasky's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by GOFASTER
I am going to get the older ET streets, that are DOT approved, I like them and they don't cost as much as the ET drags. Also, I am SURE they hook just as well, if not better. Yes, I read the article in HOTROD about the new ET drag radials, they seem to hook better than any of MT's other slicks, so I am looking into them. I bet they cost more however, so I may stick with the ET streets.

I don't plan on EVER running with street tires, so getting my launch down with them is pointless, however, my launch with the slicks will be worth working on, again, I have that down, just not as well with the new car. Once I get better slicks I will get new times.

They said my old slicks were messed up because when I drove they waboled some (sp)... whatever, I guess better safe then sorry. I am sick with anger from this past Friday, nevertheless, I will have my revenge within 2-3 months (I hope that fast). I am shooint for lowe 12's on motor alone, and mid 10's with the NOS set up. I will not stop until I reach that goal. For a slow POS she still is the best looking 3rd gen in this state.
Look into getting some drag radials, thier a great alternative if not don't go cheapo on the slicks next time . Good to hear your getting out soon, of course you get better pay then I did, I worked for a living .
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 07:46 AM
  #59  
IROCFAST's Avatar
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From: MO
They wobbled when you drove??? Could it be a bent rim...or maybe they are really dumb and when they were aired down that is what they thought? Have you driven at speed with them? Any vibration?
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #60  
GOFASTER's Avatar
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Joined: May 2000
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From: Colorado Springs
Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
yes some vibration, they said they may be coming apart or something??? I could not argue with them, the tech people would not let me run them, so what could I do? When I drove 2 the line I did feel some vibration, not sure exactly what, but I am getting new ones to avoid this again.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 06:08 PM
  #61  
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 800
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From: Ozone Park, NYC
Car: 1990 firebird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 700R4
oh man thats a nice camaro, nice place to put the hood also , pins are sexy , and yeh you got to much space , drop it some
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 10:59 PM
  #62  
irocbirdbuilder's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,378
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From: Thornton colorado
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by GOFASTER



I get them mounted and go tot he track in Pueblo.

DAM THE LUCK!
How was pueblo last time i was down there the place was a dump, i mean weeds down the track and in the burnout boxes and stuff. But havent been back in about a year and a half. Dont feel bad my old bird was doing 20.1's at bandi, in perspective it was reall only doing 19's becasue of the elevation. Colorado sucks man.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #63  
pecha's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 244
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From: Eastern Europe
Car: 98 T/A
Engine: ls1
Super sharp!
but please...
- paint headlight pockets black
- come back to the red interior
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 11:16 PM
  #64  
CaysE's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,680
Likes: 7
From: Dirty Jersey
Back from the dead...

I'm just curious about something... are the two pins on the back of the hood necessary? I don't know much about hood pin etiquette, but I usually only see two pins on the front. How are pin-on hoods usually held down on the back?
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 09:13 AM
  #65  
Benm109's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Since he has a lift-off hood, he needs the two pins in the back to hold the hood on. Lift-off hoods do not attach to the stock hood hinges or supports in any way, so it needs to be attached to the car at 4 corners. Most people that buy bolt-on hoods put 2 hood pins in the front because the fiberglass flexs and lifts up slightly at higher speeds.
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