This will be the first year that I store my Iroc-Z. I was wondering if you guys/gals could give me some tips on things that I should do. I heard that I should't leave my e-brake on all winter long while in storage is this true. My problem with that is that my transmission will not lock into park and being that my garage is on a slite angle it will roll backwards. So as you can see I have to leave it on so will it damage anything if left on?

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David Higgins
1986 Black Iroc-Z
305 TPI
Edelbrock Cat-Back
K&N Air Filters

 

Change your oil and filter. Fresh oil will protect the internal parts of your engine better because there are less contaminates in fresh oil.

Before you put your car away, take it for a drive. This allows your car to get up to operating temperature and it helps to burn off any of the contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.

Fill the gas tank as full as possible. (This will help prevent moisture from condensing inside). If you are not planing to use your car very often during the winter, be sure to add a fuel stabilizer.

Check and fill all major fluids, including brake fluid and clutch fluid reservoir (5-speed owners). Also be sure your antifreeze is clean and fresh to avoid the cooling system from freezing or possible corrosion. Your antifreeze should be slightly alkaline. (7.5 to 8 pH).

Put steelwool ***** in the tailpipes to keep mice from nesting or using your car as a food storage facility.

Remove the battery and keep it charged. When storing a battery keeping it off of the floor. Store it on a wood shelf or on a large block of wood several inches off of the floor to keep it from discharging.

On cars with 5-speed transmissions you can wedge a board on the clutch pedal to partially depress it, that will avoid the risk of the clutch and flywheel rusting together. Make sure the car is blocked so it wont roll.

Leave the parking brake off so the brake shoes or pads don't stick to the drums or rotors during storage.

If you store your car off of the ground, (on jack stands), the stands should be under the suspension. If not, damage to the shocks and other suspension parts can occur. I do not recommend this personally due to the naturally weak structure of the uni-body.

If you store your car on the ground be sure to over-inflate the tires. Five to 15 lbs. should be enough. Even tires that are in good condition can lose 1 to 2 lbs. of pressure per month. When you get your car back out in the spring, re-check the pressures to insure against tire damage.

Always store your car clean. Don't forget to wash off the undercarriage. After all, that's were most of the rust starts. Make sure you have a good coat of wax or polish on the car so that the finish won't stain if something happens to get on it during the time it is stored.

If you have a cover for your car put it on while the car is clean to protect against dust and possible scratches. DO NOT cover your car with plastic unless you have a lot of water absorber. If not the plastic will trap the water and rust your car.

Put a moisture-absorber, like baking soda, inside the car to keep the mildew from starting inside the cars interior. (From mildew come mold, from mold comes a new interior). If you store your car inside a heated area leave the windows opened about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to allow the air to circulate.

Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold.

Mouse traps or poisons placed around the car is also a good idea. Be sure that your kids, dogs or cats can't get to it though. Place them around the car every several feet. Leave your sunvisors down so it is more difficult for mice to get into the headliner if they do get in. NOTE* Mothballs will repel some pests, but the smell stays in the car for a long time. Don't put them IN your car. Bars of soap placed in an open coffee can in the trunk and front and back floorboards work well and they smell a lot better too.

Always store your car on a vapor barrier like a large piece of plastic. Try not to store your car where vehicles come in and out during the winter months. They bring moisture in with them.

Don't start your car during the winter unless you plan to drive it or allow it to get up to the proper operating temperatures. "Short running" the engine will allow moisture to build up in the crankcase and exhaust system.

If you are forgetful like me, make notes and leave them on the front seat to remind you what needs to be done in Spring to get the car ready for the summer season.

Hope this helps

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88 IROC convertible
So slow it is timed with a sundial

 

http://www.carbag.com/index.htm
check out this site for good info and their product really works I've been using it for the past 3 years.

 

I agree with Racer 350, the bags are great. In my opinion they have a few problems but are still worth it if you can overcome these few of things.

The cost $229. But worth it in my opinion.
Pain in the butt to get the car in the bag unless you get the zippered version.
You MUST keep lots of desiccant inside the bag with your car or you will do more damage than good.
The smell! If your car leaks at all or vents gas fumes your car will smell come spring time.

With all that being said I still think they are a good idea.

 

Chuck has it down. One year I stored mine with mothballs inside the car, and unexpectedly had to get it out and drive it midwinter to work from northern Michigan to Key West. It stunk. Badly. For 2000 miles. I drank a lot of margaritas when I got there.

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90 TBI 305 Formula
Original Owner
Auto Trans, T-Tops
Completely Stock Except:
--Flow Cooler water pump
--180 T-stat