Painting from dark color to white...HELP!
Painting from dark color to white...HELP!
Yall saw my camaro. a S hitty dark red looking pos. I want to paint it white. the grey interior is really neutral and will go with any color outside.
I was talking to a dude today. He said that as long as I lightly sand the car,not down to the metal or anyhting like that,the body shop can seal the red paint and just paint over it and it wont look like crap.
I only am gonna keep this camaro for a short while anyhow (no more than 2 years). If I end up keeping the car I'll get it painted again anyhow.
Will this work for a quick fix? Will it look like S H I T? Or will it be nice for a while atleast?
Thanks,
RS'er.
I was talking to a dude today. He said that as long as I lightly sand the car,not down to the metal or anyhting like that,the body shop can seal the red paint and just paint over it and it wont look like crap.
I only am gonna keep this camaro for a short while anyhow (no more than 2 years). If I end up keeping the car I'll get it painted again anyhow.
Will this work for a quick fix? Will it look like S H I T? Or will it be nice for a while atleast?
Thanks,
RS'er.
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
The car will look fine, until you pop the hood, open the doors or open the hatch. Changing the color looks bad unless you change it everywhere, which costs a fortune. That red can look fantastic when it's in good shape. Try to find some pictures of maroon camaros in good shape before you decide to change the color.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Yeah, jambs and the engin bay are the hard parts. I wish I could've pulled my engine and had the engine compartment redone at the same time I got the outside painted, I'm not too fond of havin a navy car with a white engine bay
I'll be painting the doorjams and under the hood myself...It'll all match.
I was just wondering if this guy was right saying that it would look fine for atleast 2-3 years...
Probly longer cause I'm going to be parking my under a portable tent in our backyard to keep it out of the sun and make it easier to work on...
Thanks guys.
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LONG LIVE THE F-BODY!!
I was just wondering if this guy was right saying that it would look fine for atleast 2-3 years...
Probly longer cause I'm going to be parking my under a portable tent in our backyard to keep it out of the sun and make it easier to work on...
Thanks guys.
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LONG LIVE THE F-BODY!!
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
You gonna paint under the hood with a paint brush or a roller? There is way too much **** under the hood to paint with the engine and wiring harness in place. When I painted under my hood, I had the motor out, I had the wiring harness out, and I removed as much as possible from the fire-wall including the relays, wiper motor, etc. I should have taken out the brake booster and heater box too. If I kept the engine bay red, it would have looked terrible with that stuff in place. Because I painted my engine compartment flat black, I could cheat a little bit. Changing the color is a MAJOR project if you want to do it right. If you're going to half-*** it, your results are going to look half-assed.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Okay dude put the crack pipe down...
Who said I was gonna use a paint roller?
I know how to paint...In fact I was going to paint under the hood black. Door jams white. Its not gonna look sh i tty or anything so dont worry yourself
Who said I was gonna use a paint roller?
I know how to paint...In fact I was going to paint under the hood black. Door jams white. Its not gonna look sh i tty or anything so dont worry yourself
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Uh, as regards normal painting, if your current paint is in good shape (besides faded), the dude you talked to is right. The paint can't be cracked (aka "checked") or peeling or have rust underneath the surface. A ghetto test for paint adherability is to lay some masking tape down on the paint and pull it up. If your paint comes up, it wouldn't be a good base for a paint job.
You would have to:
1. Clean each area of the car that you'll sand with a solvent or "paint prep" spray.
2. Strap some 320-grit sandpaper to a buffer/polisher and scuff the paint
The 320 gives the new paint a good "tooth" to bite into. Or, well, in your case, it will give the "sealer" coat a good tooth. The sealer does two things- it prevents paint incompatibility due to different bases, and it prevents the paint colors from absorbing into each other.
Prep the car up, and bring it somewhere. Tell them you need a primer/sealer (or just sealer) coat laid down first. They'll handle it from there. In fact, it's rare that a body shop will strip a car down to bare metal just for a paint job- that costs a fortune, and why bother? The factory stuff withstood the test of time, might as well use it.
The paint job's quality (looking how good for how long) will depend on the quality of the paint shop and the quality of the paint they use.
Also check out my message at:
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000948.html
[edit] Oh, wait, heh, that message was to you too, eh?
I didn't notice that.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
[This message has been edited by TomP (edited February 09, 2001).]
You would have to:
1. Clean each area of the car that you'll sand with a solvent or "paint prep" spray.
2. Strap some 320-grit sandpaper to a buffer/polisher and scuff the paint
The 320 gives the new paint a good "tooth" to bite into. Or, well, in your case, it will give the "sealer" coat a good tooth. The sealer does two things- it prevents paint incompatibility due to different bases, and it prevents the paint colors from absorbing into each other.
Prep the car up, and bring it somewhere. Tell them you need a primer/sealer (or just sealer) coat laid down first. They'll handle it from there. In fact, it's rare that a body shop will strip a car down to bare metal just for a paint job- that costs a fortune, and why bother? The factory stuff withstood the test of time, might as well use it.
The paint job's quality (looking how good for how long) will depend on the quality of the paint shop and the quality of the paint they use.
Also check out my message at:
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000948.html
[edit] Oh, wait, heh, that message was to you too, eh?
I didn't notice that.------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
[This message has been edited by TomP (edited February 09, 2001).]
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