Alright guys, I've used the "compounds" method of polishing before with "some" success, but I was wondering if I'm doing something wrong.

I know WHAT to use, but not so much HOW to use it. For example, I found it very difficult to get the compound ON to the buffing wheel. It was a pretty hard consistency, and IMO, I don't think I was using enough of the actual compounds when I was going over the metal.

Does this make sense? Any opinions? Maybe I just got some stale compound! J/K

I always get a damp/wet towel and spread the product onto the surface, then buff it off with the buffing wheel.

I had the same problem when I tried it too. Maybe I'll give that other technique a try.

lol the same thought hit me the other day because I was thinking about getting a buffer or at least a mother's polish ball this year......I guess it makes more sense to apply to the surface and work it in with the buffer than to put on the buffer and risk getting sprayed all over

Yeah, but the compound isn't liquid. It's like a hard clay. You can't wipe it onto the surface like a wax or a Mother's one step polish.

That's why you use a damp rag, rub the damp area around on top of the canister of compound and it will come out like a thick paste, it's chunky, but that's what does the work.

I polished metal for a living one summer. Our compounds all came in large bricks. I would rub the brick onto the polishing wheel just briefly until the wheel changed color a little bit. You don't need a ton. I also cleaned the wheel often, otherwise too much crap would build up and you'd get little black spots on the metal.

If you're working by hand, or with some tinker toy buffing wheel, the wheel may not have enough RPM and torque to cut properly with conventional compounds. On the 3hp setup with 15" buffs, it worked very well.

Yeah, I used an electric drill, but I don't think the RPMs were up high enough. I think that was the problem.

if its spinning fast enough, the friction from touching the compound to the wheel "melts" it on there....