Okay,

I got my new H4 conversions and installed them today (more on that in a sec). The low beam works fine (needs different bulbs, but I kinda knew that going in). The issues I'm having are these:
1) the high beams are staying on very dimly on the low beam setting; 2) on high beam setting, as the lights heat up, they begin to flicker (all 4 bulbs).

My suspicion on the 1st issue is the car is wired for a 2 prong bulb for the high beam lamp and using a 3 prong such as the H4 causes the bulb to stay on slightly. Would using a two prong version solve this issue, or am I going to need to rewire?

On the second issue, I'm assuming the 4 lamps simply are more than the wiring can take, overheating the system causing the flicker (and most likely burning out the system if allowed to continue).

On the plus side, I like the color of the lamps--but PIAA bulbs will probably need to be installed to get the brightness I want--the ones they shipped are a bit dimmer than I'd like.

As for install, this isn't a simply bolt it in setup--at least the prostreet lighting version I purchased. The waterproof grommets they provide require you to enlarge the headlamp bucket openings to fit properly--they won't mount at all without this--at least mine wouldn't. The swapping of the wires was actually the easiest part of the deal. Since I had to pull the buckets to modify them, we also had to realign the headlamps. I still need to tweak that a bit more.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated. I did a search ealier on the dim light issue, because I remembered someone else had that problem, but couldn't find it. If there's already a thread that adresses these issues, post it and I'll take a look at it.

 

when i get time i will install that apc h4 conversion harness and see if that kills that dull lighting in the high beams while the lows are on...yea...the bucket enlarging was a little of a pain but i am happy with the look of the housing compared to the older halogens

 

I'd suspect the dim litness is from excess power being feed back through the high beam circuit from the lowbeam circuit. Is there any sort of diode preventing this with the plugs?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght+conversion

 

So basically nobody knows? The link just reiterated the same info. I've changed the wiring twice, and managed to lose the glow, but the highs still blink when they are on for an extended period, which suggests to me that they are overpowering the wiring.

Has anybody wired the high beam with a three prong socket? what was the result?

Has anyone made this conversion REALLY work--i.e. the lows are brighter than stock lights, no nasty glow in the highs, the highs work without blinking when they get hot, and doesn't burn up the wiring?

 

Mine work fine. Dont buy those prostreet ones they are junk plain and simple. Buy Eurolites. They fit with no mods and the overall quality is so much better its crazy. You need to repin the connector to remove that orange/brown glow. You will/should add relays to the system as the added load messes with the switch. I had the same issues you had so I made the harness with relays and it works great! Lights are brighter than stock by far, the high beam doesnt glow when lows are on and all 4 lights come on when high beam is engaged. So in order to fix your lights you need to repin the connectors for H4 bulbs and add relays to stop power flowing through the switch. Oh and Im using 3 pin connectors on both lights ...its just that high beam has an open slot with no wire or connector.

Kris

 

I dunno what I did, but mine are peachy.. Silvania Silverstars in all 4, LOs are brighter than stock, highs are insane, didn't change any of the wiring, and they work fine.. No pulsing/dimming/anything, and that's with my sub on.. So.. I don't know, I just swapped them.. The Silverstars count as H4 conversion, right? I thought they did, maybe not...

 

Were they Silverstar sealbeams or actual H4 bulbs? Actual conversions require you repin the connectors.

 

Nope, they give you a new connector but no diodes. I've purchased the harness with relays from summit. We'll see how that works.

 

Now you tell me. I have repinned the connector, and I think I've solved the dull glow problem. I still have an issue with High Beam flicker, and I don't think the lights are as bright as they ought to be. I'm hoping the new harness I'm purchasing will fix both those issues.

 

I dunno...

But, looking at all the issues going on here, I kinda have to assume not... My car's the oldest possible.. So...
I guess not.

 

I bought those crap ones from prostreet too. They suck lol. Horrible quality, dont fit without modding and they just suck!! I bought them to fix damaged Eurolites. Now Im sending them back and my Eurolites will be here tommorow. The relays will make a big difference in brightness , ne upgraded heavier gauge wiring as will quality bulbs like PIAAs. DO NOT use junk cheapy bulbs as they are inefficent and make way too much heat and can cause cracked lenses. Some guys seem to be okay without the relays but lots like me need them to protect the switch. Theres a guy locally who is making 420rwhp on a stock bottom end LT1 Firebird ((Cam and head work)) who actually took his sealed beams, seperated the glass from the housing and managed to turn them into a xenon headlamp. Looks killer.

 

where do you buy Eurolites?

 

http://www.stylinconcepts.com/part.a.../CategoryID/26

 

11

 

I've posted this elsewhere, but the APC harness from summit solved my issues, but we did have to modify the harness some to make it work. The wiring to the battery wasn't of sufficient grade to handle the draw, so we upgraded the wires. Now works like a charm.

 

OK, If I buy 4 eurolite conversion lamps, all I need is different bulbs for the highs and lows, because they use the same housing, right? Also, does anyone have info on the repinning of the connectors? Do i need to repin the connectors if i get the APC harness?

 

If you are using the H4 conversion, all 4 bulbs will be the same. It is kind of weird at first b/c the H4 is a hi/lo type bulb. So on low beam, the bulb is operating on its "low" setting. On "high" however, all 4 bulbs light up on their "high" setting making a HUGE change in brightness. If you were in certain states of this country, you could see from one side of the state to the other.

As for repinning the connectors I've seen about 18 diagrams, most were wrong. You do have to change them though. Use the , and then experiment till you get it right. Its easy to do. Even a mechanical schmuck like me had no problems with it. Most of the diagrams I saw had two of the wires wrong compared to what I ended up with.

As for the APC harness, make sure you look at it. I believe you still have to change the pins, but only where it connects to their harness. Also, I suggest inserting a breaker or large (30 amp maxi) fuse in line to protect your headlamp switch, especially if you use your highs very much. I'll repeat myself here and state that we had to upgrade the wiring on the APC harness where it connects to the battery as we literally melted the connector within 10 minutes with the lights on high beam.

 

ok, so my search skills REALLY REALLy suck, or there is nothing there...does anyone care to explain the repinning in more detail?

Also, could you clarify what "where it connects to their harness" means Thanks!

edit: thanks fro clearing the high/low thing up, makes sense now. I will definately do a picture tutorial when I get this done right

 

I just had a buddy of mine that's an electician install the APC H4 Harness and my lights now work with no problems at all, low beams are the 2 outside lights with no brownish glow coming from the others and hi-beams are all 4 I recommend get the wiring harness from Summit Racing...it will solve all the problems!

 

I have an APC harness and all the stuff needed to install it but I can't figure out where to tap in to the wiring to wire up the relays. The APC harness has a 3 prong plug that controls the relays so I bought a female version of it to wire in so that the harness can plug right in. Only problem is I don't know where to wire it in. Can anyone take pictures?

 

Is the APC harness from Summit any different than the APC harness from Jegs? Jegs was cheaper last time I checked. (last night)

Also, where did everyone get the Eurolites from? I think I am just going to Froogle for them.

 

bought mine on e-bay from pro-street lighting--but they are only "okay" IMHO. Mine were not "Eurolites" though; some other off brand.

 

You can get them here---> Toucan Industries, Inc.

 

What H4 bulbs is everyone using, or is there only one kind? Did I mention I know nothing about any of this?

Also, could someone please give some info on the repinning, the search didn't turn anything up for me.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...GHT+CONVERSION

 

See the link above, or go to the "SEARCH" at the top of the page (NOT the "search this thread") and type "headlamp conversion" or "HID" or "H4 Conversion". I came up with multiple threads.

 

this just confirms the fact I cannot search to save my life...thanks!

 

I don't have the H4 conversion kit, but I just recently had the dim light problem where all lights are on, the brights where dim and the rest were on. I could even turn off the switch and the lights would be on until I killed the car.

I had a loose ground for the right side headlights and it caused this. The grounds are located in the engine side of the radiator support between the radiator and fenderwalls. Maybe you didn't need the APC harness and it was just a bad ground?

 

No, my lights were fine prior to install. It had to do with repinning the connectors correctly. It went away as soon as I had it right. The apc harness (hopefully) keeps you from frying your switch. It comes with relays and is wired direct to the battery. The H4 bulbs draw LOTS of power especially on "highbeam." Without the harness, the lights start to flicker on high because you are overpowering the switch. Let it go and you'll fry it in short order. Again, I recommend installing a breaker or large fuse in line. And just FYI, there is an excellent Tech article here on TGO that describes how to build your own harness if you don't want to buy the apc one. I believe its listed under "headlamp upgrade" or some such.

 

The issues I'm having are these:
1) the high beams are staying on very dimly on the low beam setting; 2) on high beam setting, as the lights heat up, they begin to flicker (all 4 bulbs).

same thing happened to me so i jus broke 1 of the prongs off each bulb, the only downside to that was the when u had the highbeams on, the regular headlights wernt on w/ them,

so thats kinda of an easy half-*** way to do it

 

For future reference, here are a couple of pics of the wires that came with my H4 conversion lamps when I bought them 4-5 years ago. Worked perfectly ever since..







Ken

 

that does the exact same thing as repinning them....

 

just installed today i got 9003 60/55 bulbs works perfect for me... heres the link https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...ghts-pics.html

 

Uhm...yeah..


Ken

 

I just went and bought the pigtails from oreillys and put male terminals on the ends to attatch to my factory harness. There is 2 wires you have to switch, after that its all gravy.

 

I just installed my APC harness today and repinned them but I'm running into a really weird problem. When I turn on the highs the highs work as they should and when I turn off the highs it goes back to lows like it should. However, when I first turn the lights on even though it is on the low beam setting it comes on as high beams. I hit the high beams (to turn them on) again and it stays like that then when I turn them off it goes back to lows. Any idea why this might be happening? I plugged the relay activator prong into the stock passenger side low beam socket so that it would activate the relays when either the low or high beam is turned on through it so I don't see why it shouldn't work.

 

A mod i just remembered I want to do! on my dad's s-10, his lows come on every time the truck starts, and I just switch between highs and lows. I really like it, so i think i am going to try and do this. Does anyone happen to know which wire becomes hot when the key is turned in our cars?

 

I'm currently attempting this conversion myself and have run into an intresting problem. I currently have new housings for my low beam bulbs but am still running sealed beams for my highs. I've installed a matrixx headlamp harness (part number MX01132) and am running APC Ultra White bulbs. When i turn on my low's they are insanely bright. When i switch to highs, the lows cut out completely and only the high bulbs (inside pair) illuminate (at a much dimmer illumination than the lows). Am I using the wrong wiring harness? I've run a search and seen no mention of this harness elsewhere but I was told this is the one i should run through Classic Industries. Does anybody have any insight on this?

 

Did you re-pin the connectors? You have to do this because the h4 style bulbs are wired different. And I'm not sure you can mix and match the bulb types and have them work properly. Read this whole thread and do a search besides and you'll find threads about re-pinning them. Simply adding the harness usually isn't enough. I'm not familiar with the Matrix harness, but my APC harness still used my re-pin setup.

 

i had the low dull high beam problem like u....just cut and reconnected the wires to go the right places. basically all the wires shift clockwise when looking at where the wires meet the connector. after that all was fixed

 

this diagram shows stock wire placement (left) and where it needs to be for h4 bulbs(right). simply cut the wires and reroute them to the place they need to be feeding to


..........Ground......................High
.............__..........................__

....High |.....| Low........ Low |.....| Ground




Note: for the high beams i did not reroute wires as there are only 2 to begin with. i just bought a new connector with the 3 prong opening and kept the wires in their original place.