Waxing / Polishing Question
Waxing / Polishing Question
I am just getting my 91' up and running after 3 years of it sitting away from where I live... it has definately dulled and lost it's luster since, what's your recommendation on what to use to get it's shine back?
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From: Miami
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Meguiar's has a three step system that you can get at any auto parts store. It's affordable and usually pretty effective.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 395
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From: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Auto
If it's been sitting for a while and looking pretty dull you'll want to give it the full treatment:
1. Wash
2. Claybar
3. Polish
4. Wax
Step 1 is pretty self explanatory.
Step 2 is what takes off all the surface contaminants - everything from tree sap to rail dust, stuck on pollen, etc. All the crap that makes the paint feel rough to the touch. This step will make your cars finish feel as smooth as the mirror in your bathroom.
Step 3 is what really brings out the shine in the finish, much more than the wax does. You can do this by hand, but unless you have arms like Popeye you will be in severe pain before you're halfway through. Get a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher and some good pads, then go to work with something like Meguiar's M80 polish. This will get rid of the swirls and fine scratches, bring up a high shine, and finally prep the surface for wax. The 7424 is not a high speed rotary so you don't need to worry about burning your paint, but it's got much more power than those 10" polishers you find at auto parts stores. Those are fine for applying/removing wax, but they don't have the guts to remove swirls and other defects. A high speed rotary will literally burn through your paint in a matter of several seconds if you don't know what you're doing, or leave nasty buffer trails that are a bugger to get out. Stick with the 7424 - it's an awesome tool. Quick tip #1: do NOT let a polish dry on the paint like you would with a wax. Trust me, it will be a royal pain to remove. Quick tip #2: don't think you can just wipe on/wipe off a polish and get results. It isn't magic. Polishes have very fine abrasives that need some power behind them to make 'em work.
Step 4 seems like it would as self explanatory as Step 1, but it really isn't. You really want to do 2 & 3 above before waxing or you'll just be waxing all the crap on your paint. Apply your wax in VERY thin coats. If you have a dark car and a dried coat of wax makes it look white, you've probably used enough wax for half a dozen cars. Good luck getting it off, too! Seriously, a properly applied coat of wax will be almost clear when it dries. Wax, or a good synthetic sealant, is really a sacrificial barrier applied to protect the paint. Yes, it can impart a shine, but like I said, if your car isn't prepped correctly you're trying to put a shine on a bunch of crap. If you've done the first 3 steps right, it almost doesn't matter what wax or sealant you use. Seriously.
Get yourself a bunch of microfiber towels to remove polish, wax, etc. Take a look at Meguiar's Online or Autopia Car Detailing Forum - Car Detailing (Wash, Wax, Polish) Enthusiast Forum. for more than you ever thought possible on the subject!
1. Wash
2. Claybar
3. Polish
4. Wax
Step 1 is pretty self explanatory.
Step 2 is what takes off all the surface contaminants - everything from tree sap to rail dust, stuck on pollen, etc. All the crap that makes the paint feel rough to the touch. This step will make your cars finish feel as smooth as the mirror in your bathroom.
Step 3 is what really brings out the shine in the finish, much more than the wax does. You can do this by hand, but unless you have arms like Popeye you will be in severe pain before you're halfway through. Get a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher and some good pads, then go to work with something like Meguiar's M80 polish. This will get rid of the swirls and fine scratches, bring up a high shine, and finally prep the surface for wax. The 7424 is not a high speed rotary so you don't need to worry about burning your paint, but it's got much more power than those 10" polishers you find at auto parts stores. Those are fine for applying/removing wax, but they don't have the guts to remove swirls and other defects. A high speed rotary will literally burn through your paint in a matter of several seconds if you don't know what you're doing, or leave nasty buffer trails that are a bugger to get out. Stick with the 7424 - it's an awesome tool. Quick tip #1: do NOT let a polish dry on the paint like you would with a wax. Trust me, it will be a royal pain to remove. Quick tip #2: don't think you can just wipe on/wipe off a polish and get results. It isn't magic. Polishes have very fine abrasives that need some power behind them to make 'em work.
Step 4 seems like it would as self explanatory as Step 1, but it really isn't. You really want to do 2 & 3 above before waxing or you'll just be waxing all the crap on your paint. Apply your wax in VERY thin coats. If you have a dark car and a dried coat of wax makes it look white, you've probably used enough wax for half a dozen cars. Good luck getting it off, too! Seriously, a properly applied coat of wax will be almost clear when it dries. Wax, or a good synthetic sealant, is really a sacrificial barrier applied to protect the paint. Yes, it can impart a shine, but like I said, if your car isn't prepped correctly you're trying to put a shine on a bunch of crap. If you've done the first 3 steps right, it almost doesn't matter what wax or sealant you use. Seriously.
Get yourself a bunch of microfiber towels to remove polish, wax, etc. Take a look at Meguiar's Online or Autopia Car Detailing Forum - Car Detailing (Wash, Wax, Polish) Enthusiast Forum. for more than you ever thought possible on the subject!
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