Anyone shave the locks and door handles?
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
Anyone shave the locks and door handles?
I'm going to be painting my car this winter (keeps fingers crossed), and I was thinking about shaving the door handles and buying the kit. Has anyone ever done this? Any tips on what kits to get? How hard it it to install?
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From: Wi
Car: 99 Camaro
Engine: LS
Transmission: TH-400
Axle/Gears: 3.25 9"
I diden't use a kit but I have done many cars with factory door lock modules and a little metal work... I have seen some "butched up" ones also where people have tried to just fill the holes with fiberglass or bondo, it's not too hard to do if you have some welding and fabrication skills I usually just cut a piece of metal slightly larger than the hole I make where the lock and handle used to be and weld it in a little bondo over the seams and you are good, the factory door lock modules have just enough power to pop a latch and using a available aftermarket popper to open the door enough to get it open has worked well for me and is actually cheeper than most "kits" I have seen ..
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
keep in mind if you shave your handles and locks, i think that makes you inelligible to run on most any tracks, because if you wreck there is no way to get into your car, but if you're not running on the tracks it's not a big problem.
just a couple pics and a short vid, the video is before all the body work to smooth the door and no door poppers, just the solenoidto unlatch the door, but the door has brand new weatherstripping on it so it pops out easily...


just a couple pics and a short vid, the video is before all the body work to smooth the door and no door poppers, just the solenoidto unlatch the door, but the door has brand new weatherstripping on it so it pops out easily...


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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Wi
Car: 99 Camaro
Engine: LS
Transmission: TH-400
Axle/Gears: 3.25 9"
I would think it would depend on the track I don't have any problems here in Wi or ILL where I run my cars they would just pop the glass if you crash (considering it would probably be out anyway in a crash) I know you have to keep the inside handles so you have some way out , it would be best to check with the local track for sure if you plan on racing ...
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From: Mass, Boston
Car: 1988 GTA Black notchback
Engine: 1991 L98 355 TWIN Superchagred
Transmission: 700r4 shift kit 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: www.cardomain.com/id/gtafanatic
i was going to shave mine but did not do to the track reason, BUT i am still running door poopers with the handles i have never seen this done so i fig i do it.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
Yeah, Ive never had my car to the track before, so its no big deal for me. I love watching, and I will check on what they say here in Michigan.
And Johnnyboy, I love your car. Track or no track I think I will shave the handles. Welding and filling the hole is no problem. We fix smashed cars on the side. So we can do almost anything. But, we have never done this before. I think it gives it a nice look with them shaved off. And a kit is only going to cost around $229.99 for a two door kit which includes:
AUTOLOC SVPRO3 8 Channel 35lb remote shaved door kit includes 2 remotes, 2 35lb solenoids, mounting hardware & wiring. So installing it would be the hard part.
Thanks all!!!
And Johnnyboy, I love your car. Track or no track I think I will shave the handles. Welding and filling the hole is no problem. We fix smashed cars on the side. So we can do almost anything. But, we have never done this before. I think it gives it a nice look with them shaved off. And a kit is only going to cost around $229.99 for a two door kit which includes:
AUTOLOC SVPRO3 8 Channel 35lb remote shaved door kit includes 2 remotes, 2 35lb solenoids, mounting hardware & wiring. So installing it would be the hard part.
Thanks all!!!
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From: Livonia, MI
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 355ci SBC, Holley carb
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Axle/Gears: 4th gen Z28
I shaved all 4 on my '94 Dodge Intrepid with a kit from Summit. 45lb solenoids all around and a remote entry kit that came along with it. The hard part is mounting the solenoids inside the door and getting the linkage correct. Other than that it was pretty easy. One thing i had to do on mine was drill a small hole through the door jamb, next to the top of the solenoid, so i could shoot a little lube in there every once and a while. Made them work a lot better.
I have since scrapped that car and i will be shaving the handles on my IROC at some point. There are pics on my cardomain site of the shave.
I have since scrapped that car and i will be shaving the handles on my IROC at some point. There are pics on my cardomain site of the shave.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Smooth handles and flush, not shaved, is the way to go IMHO, like on my old 92 RS. I'll be doing this to my GTA soon.
Last edited by Stephen; Nov 15, 2006 at 07:19 PM.
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From: MN
Car: 1986 Camaro SC (Supercool)
Engine: one composed of various metals
my kit was from VPA...if you can, get a kit with less than 45lb solenoids...it's way too much, I had problems with it pulling to hard and snapping linkages, which basically kept my doors locked from the inside (since they couldnt pull open the door)....I went through a set of good door panels figuring that one out.
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
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From: Livonia, MI
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 355ci SBC, Holley carb
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Axle/Gears: 4th gen Z28
now with the shaved gas cap, where was it relocated to? I have thought about moving it just inside the rear glass with a motorcycle style cap. Like my old Nova where i had the fuel cell in the trunk. Good as long as i didn't overfill it.
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From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
camaroguy, that looks awsome! Thats the look im going for. Yeah the kit I wanted to get was 35lb, Is that too much?
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
we put it in the back behind the little storage compartment in the plastics, so all you do is open the hatch, open that little door and fill 'er up
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From: my garage
Car: 84 firebird T/A
Engine: shinny 350
Transmission: slush box L65
Axle/Gears: Torsen "3.73"
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From: Lubbock, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: Future: LSX Turbo
Transmission: built T-56
Heres a first glimpse at mine...i went ahead with shaving everything...it looks the cleanest in my opinion...i didn't care for the rear and front markers all that much so here you go...oh and shell be finished by early Jan 07
15lbs is way too weak...(already made that mistake)
35lbs could get the job done but the only place i found that made a kit was autoloc and they are $$$...i went with the 45lb and havent had any problems yet...i do see that a company called protocol makes 35lb kits on ebay...try it...im sure its enough
15lbs is way too weak...(already made that mistake)
35lbs could get the job done but the only place i found that made a kit was autoloc and they are $$$...i went with the 45lb and havent had any problems yet...i do see that a company called protocol makes 35lb kits on ebay...try it...im sure its enough
Last edited by GodSpeedGTA; Nov 25, 2006 at 12:40 PM.
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
i got it on mine, everything else is shaved cept for the gas cap, sumtimes they act up, but 99% of the time, its wonderfull, and its a great way to make fun of chicks that cant get into your car even with the keys on hand...usually a 100 bet on the line...lol
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From: MN
Car: 1986 Camaro SC (Supercool)
Engine: one composed of various metals
35 is fine, and I think 15 would be fine too.....judging from my experience if I were to do it again, I'd be moving lower than 45 (i know of some people running 100lb solenoids and it sounds like their door is about to tear off)
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From: Lubbock, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: Future: LSX Turbo
Transmission: built T-56
go with 35lbs and get it right the first time...if i was buyin another kit id pick up that protocol kit with the 35lb solenoids
GOOD LUCK!
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From: Maui, Hawaii
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
i did mines with the kit from autoloc.. 50lbs solenoids.. i think i have some pics in my Vbgarage
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From: my garage
Car: 84 firebird T/A
Engine: shinny 350
Transmission: slush box L65
Axle/Gears: Torsen "3.73"
Dont struggle needlessly,
the ones you get from Autoloc are adjustable. I believe the adjustment range is +/- 25lbs
the ones you get from Autoloc are adjustable. I believe the adjustment range is +/- 25lbs
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