Ok I need to retint that rear window its looking really bad and the rest of the car looks good so it ruins it! The problem is its gonna come off in 50,000 little peices If I just try and peel it.. is there a way I can get it off easier? does a hairdryer work at all? I obviously can't use a razor beacuse of the rear defrost.. also after I have the tint off what can I use to get the glue off the window? I'd prefer to do this myself so I dont have to spend money having it removed.. how much can I expect to spend on retinting just the rear window? thanks!

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1991 Camaro Z28
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ENGINE/MECHANICAL MODS:
350 TPI, automatic, Edelbrock Headers, Edelbrock Runners, Flowmaster Exhaust, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite Double Platinum Plugs, MSD Cap/Rotar, Random Technology high flow cat, Hypertech Power Chip (160 Deg Thermo), K&N Filterchargers
STEREO MODS:
Pioneer DEH-P6000 Reciever, Q-Logic Dual 10" Bandpass Box, 2 10" MTX Thunder 7000 Subs,
Rockford 250a2 Amp, Infinity Kappa 4x6" plates & 6x9's
Visit my website and see pics at: Frank's 1991 Chevrolet Camaro Website

 

I've never actually done it, but I heard warm soapy water works to help loosen the tint, also lighter fluid and acetone thinner work real well to break down adhesives

 

I have the same problem on mine (cheap window tint) but i've heard paint thinner will work, not sure, but what i have been told. let me know what works for you

 

I've tried them all and seriously, the warm soapy water worked the best.

 

I used nail polish remover and a credit card i got in the mail that i dint accept worked beautifully , cept it made a couple of "bleach" spots on the sill plate of my passenger side door.. but i wood jus cover it up next time

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91 3.1 RS.
T-Tops
12" tube in the "trunk" (That hole they call a trunk anyways)
16x8" ROH Rims
Firehawks all Around
New BOSCH plugs and wires.

Itchin for a SLP Cold Air and new catback.
Dynomax or American Thunder... dunno yet.. suggestions?

 

Best way I know is a little bug and tar remover spray it on let it sit for a couple Minutes and it comes up when you run a razor blade over it.

 

strengthen window cleaner with amonia(spelling)# 000 steelwool,a plastic scraper and go to town......

 

A small straight razor would work! However, you MUST use stainless steel razors or you will scratch the glass itself!

As far as having it re-tinted....you can do it yourself and spend very minimal money! I have to warn you though....tint DOES NOT stick to the rear defrost lines! If you take it into a tint shop they will most likely recommend letting them remove the rear defrost lines completely! I have a friend that works for a tint shop! As far as tinting your own windows...here are the tools needed and the steps involved!!

Items Needed:
1. Stainless Steel Razor Blades (must be stainless steel)
2. A Spray bottle of some sort (a good one to use is something like the ones used for spraying pesticides)
3. A dish soap...WITHOUT a grease cutting agent (grease cutting agents will prevent the tint from adhesing properly to the window)
4. A RUBBER squeegee
5. The tint!! 3M is the best to buy....other tints will turn purple after a few years unlike the 3M tint!!

Steps Involved:
1. Pre-Wash Window
2. In the spray bottle mix water and dish soap to make a soapy solution
3. Spray the OUTSIDE of the window with the solution and take the stainless steel razor blades and scrape the entire window....this will remove all particals of dirt that you can't see! (Dirt particles will cause little bubbles to form in the tint)
4. After you're done scraping the entire window, spray the window with the solution again!
5. Spray the tint on the NON ADHESIVE side with the solution and place the tint on the outside of the window (NOTE: DO NOT remove the backing on the adhesive side)
6. Squeegee all of the air bubbles out of the tint so that it looks straight like you would want it on the window!
7. Cut the tint to the size of the window while the tint is on there! Cut the tint about 1/4" IN from the outside edge of the window...this is for proper sealing of the tint!
8. Remove the tint after you have it cut to size...spray down the NON ADHESIVE side again and place the tint, non-adhesive side down, onto something.....the hood is a good choice
9. Spray the INSIDE of the window (where the tint will go) with the soap/water solution and scrape the entire window with the razor like you did the outside, removing all unseen particals of dirt! Spray window down again after doing this!
10. Remove the backing from the tint, which should already be adhesive side up, and spray the tint down with the soap/water solution! Place the tint on the inside of the window....adhesive side against the window of course! Make sure you use lots of soap/water solution so you can easily slide the tint around on the window to line it up properly!
11. Once tinting is lined up, squeegee all the air bubbles out and the extra soap/water solution will come out as well! Try not to move the tinting around while using the squeegee because tinting will be hard to move back into place once the soap/water solution has been squeegeed out!
12. (If Doing Side Windows) IMPORTANT: DO NOT roll down the windows for 2 to 3 days! Heat from the sunlight is what activates the adhesive in the tinting! Rolling down the window before the tinting is properly attached to the window may result in the tint ripping or coming off...or air bubbles!!

 

Yeah, you can do it yourself. But I can almost guarantee once you do, the next time you'll pay someone to do it. And this is coming from the Do-It-Yourselfer from hell!

And then might get little specks of dust trapped in it, and the stuff available directly to consumers 90% of the time fades (e.i. turns purple). I did that on my first car and in 6 months it was purple (didn't bubble or peel, but fade it did). I don't know about the 3M tint, but that's a company name I trust. If you can, try to get your hands on SolarGard.

And I don't know where 86TpiTransAm gets saying that tint doesn't stick to the defrost lines. I've had SolarGard Titanium tint on my car for two years now without any bit of bubbling, peeling, or fading. And if some guy told me the only way they could tint my rear window was to take off the defroster lines, I tell him to look for another career.

You just gotta find somebody good, because there are some good people out there. Some people will even tell you they can't tint the glass between the edge and the defroster (the one inch strip along the bottom of the hatch glass). If they can't, I'd keep looking for the guy that says "Hell yeah, I can do that. And make it look damn fine while I'm at it. And if it peels, which it won't, then I'll redo it for free." Those are the ****y bastards I like doing business with.

 

I used some stuff called 3M Adheasive, Tar and Wax remover.
It works great a little pricy at about $6.00 a can. But compared to scraping and scrubbing for a couple of hours, it's worth it.
Hope it helps

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"It's not about going fast all the time; It's knowing you can, anytime"

 

I just got done with 1/2 of the rear window, and i use warm water and soap suds and no probs. so far. It works good

 

thanks for everyones help, ill most likely give it a try tomorrow.. Someone wanna tell me what kinda places do tinting? I honestly don't have a clue where to go for it.. that whole do it yourself thing isnt for me ill screw it up somehow, id rather have it done right.. thanks

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1991 Camaro Z28
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ENGINE/MECHANICAL MODS:
350 TPI, automatic, Edelbrock Headers, Edelbrock Runners, Flowmaster Exhaust, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite Double Platinum Plugs, MSD Cap/Rotar, Random Technology high flow cat, Hypertech Power Chip (160 Deg Thermo), K&N Filterchargers
STEREO MODS:
Pioneer DEH-P6000 Reciever, Q-Logic Dual 10" Bandpass Box, 2 10" MTX Thunder 7000 Subs,
Rockford 250a2 Amp, Infinity Kappa 4x6" plates & 6x9's
Visit my website and see pics at: Frank's 1991 Chevrolet Camaro Website

 

3M tint WILL NOT stick to the defrost lines! The adhesive in tinting was made to stick to GLASS ONLY! A "cheaper quality" tint might stick to the defrost lines....but for how long....and how long before the tint falls down! I have a very good friend that works for the best d*mn tinting company I know called "Glass Tint USA" and they only use 3M tint! There is NO substitute! You can get a cheaper tint job done elsewhere with a different brand tint but you're just asking for cheaper quality as well! Might look good when it leaves their place but it won't last long and they don't care because they've been paid by that point!

This isn't about what tint is the best however so I'll just leave it at that! If anyone else wishes to waste their time arguing about tint with me then just email me!!

 

Welp I just got in from removing the tint, and I got MOST of it off.. the only part I couldnt get off was the very top of the window where all those lines are it just rips and it wont come off so Ill probably have to play with that a little.. I used warm water and soap beacuse it was the easiest thing to find on the list of things to use =P the glue seemed to be coming off but Ive had a long day and I got tired of scrubbing so I'll have to go back out tomorrow and hopefully it comes off.. btw most people have their windows tinted with a rear defrost so has anyone had problems with their tint due to the rear defrost? thanks again

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1991 Camaro Z28
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ENGINE/MECHANICAL MODS:
350 TPI, automatic, Edelbrock Headers, Edelbrock Runners, Flowmaster Exhaust, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite Double Platinum Plugs, MSD Cap/Rotar, Random Technology high flow cat, Hypertech Power Chip (160 Deg Thermo), K&N Filterchargers
STEREO MODS:
Pioneer DEH-P6000 Reciever, Q-Logic Dual 10" Bandpass Box, 2 10" MTX Thunder 7000 Subs,
Rockford 250a2 Amp, Infinity Kappa 4x6" plates & 6x9's
Visit my website and see pics at: Frank's 1991 Chevrolet Camaro Website

 

nope, the tint i sell says that it enhances the defrost performance (havent put it on my car tho, so I dont know) i do know it's been on the delivery truck for a few years and still looks good...

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85 Z28- 350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and Edelbrock cat back, Summit headers and vette servo
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio