my car was painted lasted year from red to black. When the clearcoats were applied and cured, I notice that the paint job did not look smooth but wavy. After a year gone by,I went to another paint & body shop to see if they could tell me what the problem was. After to the guy, he told me that my clearcoat on the whole was suffering for "orange-peel". He told me that I had to wet sand and buff the car. Well I was wondering if there is any tips for wet sanding the car? I bought some 1000 grit and 2000 grit 3M sand paper for pep-boys. Also I have some clearcoat runs on one of the doors. How would I go about remove the clearcoat runs? I would like to have the smoothest looking paint job possible without repainting the car.

Thanks,
Rpettway

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The guy is right, you are going to have to wet sand. Since I assume it is your first time, forget about the 1000 grit. Start with the 2000. Let it soak in a bucket of soapy (use dish washing detergent)water for 30 minutes to get the paper really soft. then start sanding. Only sand in one direction. NO circles or Xs. Sand the all horizontal pieces (hood, roof, tail deck) from from to rear or rear to front NOT left to right side of car. Sand all vertical pieces (doors, fenders, rear quarters) up and down. Use your palm on a rubber sanding block or even a thick sponge using light pressure, but don't use your fingertips. The pressure from your finger tips make "grooves" in the clearcoat. Check the water frequently, if you see color that means you sanded all the clear coat away. Not good. At first try to minimize the orange peel. If you haven't broken through to the color coat, CAREFULLY try to improve the reflectivity. After you are done sanding. Buff, Buff, Buff.

 

Nightcruzer has given you some good advice. I do it a little differently. He's right, don't sand in circles because your buffer goes in circles and it won't cut properly.

I use just the 1000 and constant fresh water. Get a squeeze bottle of water or use a garden hose on low volume. If you use a hose wrap the end or use an old hose with the end cut off so the hose doesn't scratch the finish.

Periodically rinse and chamois dry the finish. Spots where you need more work will show us glossy on an otherwise dull finish.

Then use a pro-buffer with 9" lambswool bonnet at 3000 RPM and 3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound followed by 3M Machine Glaze and a Foam Pad at 1800 RPM.

Should look like glass.

BEWARE: If your bodywork is good it will look like a million bucks. It it is poor it will be magnified 10 times by this process. Orange peel and surface imperfections can actually mask inferior bodywork to a degree.

Keep the buffer cord draped over your back and keep the buffer away from trim and winshield wipers etc. It's a good idea to tape trim, chrome, and black rubber weatherstripping before buffing.

 

Hey I work at Maaco, so i see what your problem is.... I would DEFINATELY NOT USE 1000. I personally would use at the least 1400, but probably 1600. Then just use the water hose and keep constant running water on it. It will take you about 1.5 hours to do the entire car..... Then let it dry, and use the buffer and some good finishing cream... At maaco we use stuff without WAX or silicone... just a thought. Hope I helped!