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Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
Auto Detailing and AppearanceShare tips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something tasteful looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.
Re: Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
You seem to have over worked the paint replenishing.
You did a great job, but added a lot of extra work. From where you are now, I would wash the car with hot water and dish soap. Then use the clay bar again just to get the surface "smooth". After you've done that, use a real polisher with a wool pad and apply some 3M rubbing compound over the entire car. This wll dull the finish so stay clear of mouldings as it will scratch and dull them and could burn them. In areas that the buffer can't get to, use the compound by hand. Wash the car to get rid of all remaining compound residue. Be sure to get it out of all cracks and crevices. Now get some 3M polishing compound for dark cars, a medium foam pad and buff the entire car. Wipe the car down and look for areas that need to be machine polished again. The paint should have a huge shine when you are done. Now apply a hand or machine glaze. That will make the paint look wet and deep. Glaze does not protect, so add a few coats if you want for a deeper shine, then top coat it with a very thin coat of wax. Most waxes have a slight abrasive to them so rubbing it in will remove the polish/glaze you just put on. I use a wet foam applicator and apply a thin coat of wax in a single direction, wipe and buff off wax and enjoy the shine.
Re: Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
Originally Posted by scottmoyer
You seem to have over worked the paint replenishing.
You did a great job, but added a lot of extra work. From where you are now, I would wash the car with hot water and dish soap. Then use the clay bar again just to get the surface "smooth". After you've done that, use a real polisher with a wool pad and apply some 3M rubbing compound over the entire car. This wll dull the finish so stay clear of mouldings as it will scratch and dull them and could burn them. In areas that the buffer can't get to, use the compound by hand. Wash the car to get rid of all remaining compound residue. Be sure to get it out of all cracks and crevices. Now get some 3M polishing compound for dark cars, a medium foam pad and buff the entire car. Wipe the car down and look for areas that need to be machine polished again. The paint should have a huge shine when you are done. Now apply a hand or machine glaze. That will make the paint look wet and deep. Glaze does not protect, so add a few coats if you want for a deeper shine, then top coat it with a very thin coat of wax. Most waxes have a slight abrasive to them so rubbing it in will remove the polish/glaze you just put on. I use a wet foam applicator and apply a thin coat of wax in a single direction, wipe and buff off wax and enjoy the shine.
I really really really like that idea, haha wow, alright thats what I'm going to do when it gets warm out again!
Re: Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
Anyone ever use Wax Shop Super Glaze? It used to be available in most of the auto stores, but I haven't seen it around for a while. It's an awesome wax if you can find it.
Re: Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
I have always been a fan of Meguiars, but yesterday, a guy gave me a good sales speech about Wizard, and I bought all of it. I WAS AMAZED!!! If you dont want to spend the money to buy all the products, at least try the super shine polish sealant.
Re: Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
I tend to stay with the AutoMagic line from Struthman Enterprises (local company)... Struthmans
Their XP compound is amazing...I was able to take this hood from a factory primer (goodmark) back to an incredible shine with just the XP compound, buffer and their banana magic wax.
Re: Best Auto Waxes, Polishes, Protectants and tips and tricks!
Originally Posted by scottmoyer
You seem to have over worked the paint replenishing.
You did a great job, but added a lot of extra work. From where you are now, I would wash the car with hot water and dish soap. Then use the clay bar again just to get the surface "smooth". After you've done that, use a real polisher with a wool pad and apply some 3M rubbing compound over the entire car. This wll dull the finish so stay clear of mouldings as it will scratch and dull them and could burn them. In areas that the buffer can't get to, use the compound by hand. Wash the car to get rid of all remaining compound residue. Be sure to get it out of all cracks and crevices. Now get some 3M polishing compound for dark cars, a medium foam pad and buff the entire car. Wipe the car down and look for areas that need to be machine polished again. The paint should have a huge shine when you are done. Now apply a hand or machine glaze. That will make the paint look wet and deep. Glaze does not protect, so add a few coats if you want for a deeper shine, then top coat it with a very thin coat of wax. Most waxes have a slight abrasive to them so rubbing it in will remove the polish/glaze you just put on. I use a wet foam applicator and apply a thin coat of wax in a single direction, wipe and buff off wax and enjoy the shine.
This is very good advice..
There is a theory to detailing..
-Clean the paint (soap, water, two buckets)
-Dry the paint
-Decontaminate the paint (clay bar)
-Wetsand scratches problem areas
-Compound and polish those areas
-Compound paint (stages of machine compound to where defects removed)
-Polish paint (finishing polish/glaze)
-Seal Paint (wax or sealant)
The wax or Sealant is just the protectant once you get the paint condition where you want it.. Think of polish as liquid sandpaper with different grit and wax is like a clear film on top. In the future use a gentle car wash (I use Meguiars Gold Class) dry and then Quik Detail with microfiber and the paint should look just like the first time you corrected and sealed it. Going through automatic car washes will strip your wax fast.
You said you are using a 10” polisher.. That sounds like an orbital waxer to me and not a DA Polisher. Look into DA Polishers to get better results. With a 10” Orbital pressure is not your friend.. It should be allowed to move free and flat across the paint. Same as polishing by hand.. Low pressure and flat to the paint will cause less swirl marks. You won’t see the swirls you are creating until you wash the car. Many detailers use an alcohol spray to remove polish residue that hides swirls temporarily, but will wash away.. You need really good lighting, a good DA Polisher, good pads, good products, and good technique to permanently remove paint defects. Look up Paint Correction on YouTube and learn!
You improved the look of the car but you can get better results in less time for sure!
Once repainted you won’t really need to polish or “sand down” the paint.. just protect it and gently maintain it.
01-24-2010, 07:27 PM
