I am painting my car satin black with John Deere Blitz black. It is drying faster then I can paint it. Could I ad more thinner to keep it from drying so quick? Right now o calls for an 8:1 ratio. Or if that is no good, what tips or tricks can you offer me. I just don't want to end up with a bunch of tiger stripes

 

Anyone? I know someone has to have an answer here.

 

On another note. DON'T wash your hands with laquer thinner.

 

You need to go to a slower reducer.

http://blitzblack.com/

http://www.eastwood.com/medium-acryl...allon-4-1.html

When I paint bc/cc, I pick the temp reducer for the time of year/temp.

 

Is reducer and thinner the same thing??

 

Also I am needing one for 50 to 60 degress. Any suggestions. I am by no means a painter, and therfor pretty ignorant to this stuff.

 

Here is a link that kinda gives you and idea.
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirk...c-enamels.html


Really 50 -60 is to cold. It would be best at 65* and above. At those temps, I would think it would be drying to slow.

 

I went and got a medium PPG reducer today. Will try it out. Another problem I am having is orange peel, and the guy said I cannot buff out or sand out orange peel with a satin.

 

What tip rating is your gun? Have you tried adjusting your gun and air pressure? Might be were it is drying to fast and not flowing out right.

Here is a link that explains orange peel and the cause. I know it is for wood, but the definition is the same.

http://www.finishwiz.com/orangepeel.htm

 

many reasons for dry paint finish

just a few are:

wrong reducer
incorrect reduction
wrong air pressure at the gun
air compressor not keeping up
gun adjusted incorrectly
bad spray pattern
moving too fast across the panel
not enough overlap on coats

 

1.4 tip. I think I need to adjust pressure. I just wish I could buff it out. Would be easier. I had John deere thinner. But upon reading one suggestion was to get a normal enamal reducer. Which I did. I prob will just have to play air