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Auto Detailing and AppearanceShare tips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something tasteful looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.
spray the gloss and there will be orange peel. wet sand it with 1500 grit then 2000 grit. now I have a nice smooth gloss all over. (hmmm... maybe no buff at this point...Im not too sure...) Now spray the clearcoat all over and buff it to a mirror finish. Of course I gotta let the paint cure between these steps.
I guess that is what was throwing me.
Generally speaking, base coat is a matte finish and not really able to be buffed out to a high gloss like a single stage acrylic. The shine/gloss is in the (good) clear coat, not the underlying color layer. Base color goes on fairly thin and lays quite flat most of the time, leaving you with a smooth color coat (no orange peel) to apply clear without sanding.
Also, spraying clear over a buffed out finish will net you a gain of your clear coat peeling off in sheets after a period of time. Even 15-2000 grit is somewhat light for the clear to be able to 'grip'. I have never used anything above 600 when it comes time to lay color, base, or clear. Generally, no sanding is needed between base and clear as long as you are in your time window for applying.
I am only hobby painter, the above is only my opinion and everyone has a bit different technique.
The best idea, though, is to pick a line (brand) of paint and use it as a system, primer/sealer to clear for best comparability and results.
I guess that is what was throwing me.
Generally speaking, base coat is a matte finish and not really able to be buffed out to a high gloss like a single stage acrylic. The shine/gloss is in the (good) clear coat, not the underlying color layer. Base color goes on fairly thin and lays quite flat most of the time, leaving you with a smooth color coat (no orange peel) to apply clear without sanding.
Also, spraying clear over a buffed out finish will net you a gain of your clear coat peeling off in sheets after a period of time. Even 15-2000 grit is somewhat light for the clear to be able to 'grip'. I have never used anything above 600 when it comes time to lay color, base, or clear. Generally, no sanding is needed between base and clear as long as you are in your time window for applying.
I am only hobby painter, the above is only my opinion and everyone has a bit different technique.
The best idea, though, is to pick a line (brand) of paint and use it as a system, primer/sealer to clear for best comparability and results.
Thats the only way I've ever done it.I've mixed ditzler paint with DuPont primer and had terrible results once.The entire paint job peeled off the car in sheets.It started out as small air bubbles under the paint and within one day,we could peel the paint job off the car.It was an expensive mistake.panhead201
compatibility, not comparability... poor typing on my part
My typing skills and grammatical skills will not recieve any awards in the foreseeable future.All that aside,I've owned restoration shops and bodywork and paint made up the vast majority of the time spent.There are paints that are made to be base coats(require a clear or tinted clear coat)to be applied over it.Then there are paints that are a one part system.Not counting primer,actifier,flexerizer,metalflake,etc,etc,over it.Just like the paint you got from your rattlecan.For me,I'll use .600 grit sandpaper to knock down a primer that was also meant to be a filler.Dupont 30S for example.After that I find 600 way too coarse to not be seen and felt on a paint job.I grew up pre acrylic painting and spirit based laquer was the paint of choice.Clear laquer would be appliedover it for depth,life span,whatever.We'd use 1200,1500,2000 until the final coat was buffed out by machine.Then,depending on the customer,car paint job,billable hours,whatever,we'd buff it by hand.19 or 20 coats of lquer would not be uncommon,one coat being your first pass from left to right,your second pass being your return,left to right.It was an ungodly ammount of work,and I have the spots on my chest x-rays to thank for it.I dont use anything but acrylics anymore,unlss its an enamel.I hope your paint job turns out great,your hood stripes look really good!panhead201
Last edited by panhead201; Sep 14, 2011 at 12:41 AM.
Reason: misspelling
Its been a while but despite the fact that Ive been busy with everyday life, I have been pretty hard at it when good weather permits. Im not fully done but heres a teaser pic of what Ive done so far...
Engine bay was completely sanded, cleaned, primered, painted and clear coated.
I will post more pics when Im fully done. It should be about another month or so...
All Done!!! Well, with the paint job anyway... The car is still far from done as you will see, but just one day shy of the one year mark that I started this thread and project and I finally finished the body! Enjoy these pics and let me know what you think. Keep in mind, I had no prior experience in paint or body work. Here they are...
So the consensus is positive, yet unanimous that I need to wet sand and buff it. Any tips on how to best accomplish this? Like... Technique, what grit, how much water and what kind of soap if any, what sanding pattern, and for the buff.... What material of bonnet, what best compound to use, what size, what speed, etc. Any help would be great! Thanks!
Beautiful. Just Beautiful. This color scheme is one of the best custom looks I've seen on a thirdgen. REALLY DIGGING IT!! I'm in the same boat as your right now with my TA, except not quite as far, still early stages.
Front bumper emblem was from summit racing, all other emblems are from hawks thirdgen parts, the front lights were from eBay, rear lights were from Klearz.
Yeah I think the paint looks really good I might be coping and something similar for for my car except I wouldn't do this over around the bottom I just is this black clear around and silver racing stripes with the red pinstripe
It's been quite a while! I haven't done much of anything lately. But, I have been having fun with the customization in Forza Motorsports 4. Here's more or less how I would love my car to look like when all is said and done.
