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putting needles back on DIY White face guages NEED HELP

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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 07:43 PM
  #1  
Bill Krumel's Avatar
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putting needles back on DIY White face guages NEED HELP

Well folks I to thought I would make the DIY White face
guages and I did and they look really nice. NOw I got
the cluster back in the car and am trying to get the
needles back to where they are. What a PITA. If
I were to do it over again I WOULD NOT REMOVE THE
NEEDLES and would probably just buy MacEwen's... or
try making slits in the DIY White face overlays so I
didn't have to remove the needles....

Now does anybody know what a 305 TBI should idle
at? I was thinking around 3 Grand??? Please
help me out...

THANKS!
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 08:21 PM
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I have a 2.8, but I can tell you it will be a LOT less than 3,000 rpm. Should be around 700, but I am sure someone with one will answer soon. thanks for the info on the gauges, I am about to do this myself, but have read all the warnings and tips to get the needles back correctly. Good luck.
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 11:04 PM
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700 is right.. I found it in my book I meant 300 earlier not 3 grand..

Anyways I am still debating on what to do to get these needles back on there correctly. I did alot of trial and error and got them close..
I have asked people about that WinADL but nobody really wants to tell me how it works and what reading it gives. I know it gives the tach....
Does anyone have any ideas on how to recalibrate these needles since they have been removed????

THanks
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 12:40 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
For the tach, put the key in and just turn it so the car has power but isn't actually started. Then put the needle at 0. I believe when the cluster gets power, it always puts the needle to zero for the tach (it did on my 89 IROC and my 92 RS anyway).

For the gas, put it at where you left it. Then go fill up and see if its at full. If its not at full, put it at full.

Oil and Volts- I just turned the car on and put it where it usually sits.

Speedo- Same as tach. Then test it with a friend. Get on a 2 lane road and have him drive next to you at an agreed speed and give you a sign when he's doing that speed. Match his speed and check the speedo.

Thats what I did and mine are workin fine so far. Its probably not perfect, but close enough. Good luck.
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 01:40 PM
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Thanks for the reply MetalliCamaroRS....

For some reason I think my speedo is messed
up because I tryed to pull off the a metal
piece with needle nose pliers... You know
how the metal piece is in the back of the needle?
Well when I took the needle of the metal piece
stayed on and I tried getting if off with the
needle nose but couldn't... Now my speedo
needle does not move evenly. It has a little
jerk to it?
Anybody know how I could fix that besides
getting a new speedo or is it normal?

thanks again!
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 08:07 PM
  #6  
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I guess I am just SOL nobody wants to help
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 09:44 PM
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WinALDL gives ac accurate RPM in 25 rpm increments (I believe.). What do you need help with on WinALDL?
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 09:54 PM
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Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
Bill Krumel: Did I miss something? My speedo has jerked ever since I got this car last August
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 10:36 PM
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Hg: I am not sure if my speedo needle jerked before I
took this all apart. I don't think it did but maybe it did...
I guess the reason I think it is jerking is because I tried
to pull a metal piece off it that was stuck on it.... Maybe
they all jerk hell I dunno...

Bottom line is I need to find someone who can
recalibrate these needles or tell me how....

Engine Temp
Tach
and Volts
are the hardest to calibrate...

Anyhow have any suggestions for these?
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 12:10 AM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
The method I used for the tach and told you about above will work. When you put the key in and turn the battery on but don't start the car, the tach goes to zero.
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 09:21 AM
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ok I'll do that for the tach. What about Volts and Engine Temp?
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 12:11 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Originally posted by Bill Krumel
ok I'll do that for the tach. What about Volts and Engine Temp?
Without WinALDL, you won't be able to get them perfect. Do you know what your volts are usually at when the car is on? Just put the needle back there. If you have a problem, the gauge will still move. I just stuck mine back at about 12 where it usually sits. My alternator died this weekend and the gauge was at about 9 so I was still able to notice that something wasn't right.
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 10:51 PM
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You've got mail, Bill.....
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 11:03 PM
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From: Lan Terminal
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 11:08 PM
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That wasn't pointed at me, was it?
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Old Apr 22, 2002 | 12:58 PM
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I forgot you know all and are perfect un4givin89

My engine temp is the only guage left to calibrate. I was
talking to my uncle who is a Transimission mechanic and he
said let the car run until the fan kicks on and right when
the fan kicks on put the needle on like 210. He said
thats about the temp the fan should kick on. So I am
going to do that and I should be fine... The needles
won't be perfect but close enough. Thanks for everyone's
help... I will get pictures up soon.
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