How bad does this rust look to u?
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
How bad does this rust look to u?
k well i got a few pics of this car and the guy said he'd take $500 for it. it has pretty much all the options, 305 tpi and all it needs to run is a fuel pump. but.....RUST!!! I HATE IT!!!! does this look fixable to you guys? a lot of it just looks like surface rust that could probably be sanded off right? he said the bottom of the doors, t-bar and above the wheels is the worst (<~~ i dunno if this means just the little lip or the actual wheel well). check these out and tell me how bad u think it is. im going to devote all winter to this if i decide to get it
drivers side door looks pretty bad (prolly a new one would go there)
drivers side door looks pretty bad (prolly a new one would go there)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8,030
Likes: 1
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
I would definately replace the door. I can't tell how bad it is in the wheel well with that pic.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
3 how bad does this look? POR-15 is a must! i don't know how bad the floor is, he says it looks like just surface rust but im guessing theres a few holes needing to be fixed
Last edited by Need4Speed1387; Dec 18, 2002 at 10:24 PM.
you thinking of getting this car?
I don't know I think for alittle more money you can get a car that looks in better shape.
but if you have the know how and the time, some of it looks like it could be brought back from the dead.
biker
I don't know I think for alittle more money you can get a car that looks in better shape.
but if you have the know how and the time, some of it looks like it could be brought back from the dead.
biker
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 507
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From: Triangle NC
Car: 82 Ponitac Firebird
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 4L60e/TCI TCU
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Don't waste your money. If the body is in this kind of shape the rest of the running gear is also in bad shape. I sorry to have to say this but the car is junk!
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8,030
Likes: 1
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Maybe offer $100, but I don't think its really worth it unless you want a long project.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 142
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: not stock 2.8
Transmission: T5
ugh, i wouldn't get that car. there's rust everywhere, and usually if someone lets the body go like that, the car's seen a pretty hard life. it would probably be cheaper and easier to do a v8 swap on a v6 car, and that is no easy job either
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 177
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From: guelph ontario
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
that makes me feel a bit better about my car now 
I don't know if that's worth $500. and your probably talking US funds. it might be worth 500 canadian bucks.

I don't know if that's worth $500. and your probably talking US funds. it might be worth 500 canadian bucks.
It is fixable...but you are going to spend a lot of time fixing it. For $500 I would take it as long as it only needs a fuel pump. Checkout this thread on the bodywork that I did on my car. I paid $1400 for it with 89xxx, running but with a leaking tranny seal. Looking back, it may not have been worth it...but it was a learning experience.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=125264
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=125264
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,812
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
if its been here in IL all its life like it looks like its been then its good for parts car even though wont be any body parts salveagable, most all these cars here this old are rusted out unless are garaged alot or seasonally stored, you cant protect them from winter months at all, dont rule out the option of spending a couple of days to go travel down south in drier warmer climate and pick up a running driveable car for maybe a lil more and drive it back to up here, only to rust out like that one if you drive it year round
good luck
good luck
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 76
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From: Gaffney, SC (upstate SC)
Car: 88 IROC-Z, 71 SS 454 Chevelle
Engine: 305 TPI, 454
Transmission: 5spd, th400
If it runs and is driveable, wouldn't the motor (TPI intake and wiring harness) and trans be worth $500?
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Posts: 13,579
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
That's a parts car (if there are any left that don't need work). Sure, the car can be repaired, but at what cost? I bet that if you pull those ground effects off, you'd find MAJOR rust holes underneath. Nevermind what the floor pans look like. Then there's fuel lines, brake lines, e-brake cables, suspension parts, exhaust, and all the other stuff that's obviously been through a very hard life.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 244
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5- manual five speed
rusty car
if you end up not buying the car and its a five speed let me know, ill buy it. looking for a donor car for my 92 RS to do a v6 to v8 swap.
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
alright here's the deal: i got a big heated garage thats empty and wants to be filled up. i have way too much time on my hands now (i got fired from JEWEL!! u know u suck when you can't work at JEWEL hahaha!!). i don't have too much know how about rust, but i really wouldn't be driving this car until about june anyways- a lot of time to learn. my friend's dad works at a chevy bodyshop and im sure he'd be helping/giving me advice along the way. i think that i could get it in decent shape by june. he said the engine and tranny were new @ about 100K and now its got about 175K. it was his dad's car before it was his, and its been sitting outside most of its life. i really want a CHEAP project car that i can work on and make drivable by june. its just so damn hard to find any third gens around here in good shape for cheap. what would you guys say i should offer him for it? i really want a car.
(BTW its a 305 TPI auto, power everything, t-tops. if it was a 5-speed i'd be on it like white on ****
)
(BTW its a 305 TPI auto, power everything, t-tops. if it was a 5-speed i'd be on it like white on ****
) Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,383
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From: CT
Car: 85 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305HO L69
Transmission: T5
that's a whole lot of rust, but if you got the time and the ambition, i say go for it.
on a side note, is **** actually censored on this board now? lol
on a side note, is **** actually censored on this board now? lol
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 436
Likes: 2
From: South Lyon, (SE) Michigan
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: LB9 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
For $500 with that much rust, i'd want the engine to be in pretty good shape. I'd make sure that the fuel pump is all it needs before you buy it.....it would require a new door, because I noticed there's a hole rusted through the driver's side door. Good luck, and keep us posted.
It realy looks like a big time project.With so many of these cars built,why sttle for one in that sad of shape?I live in cental IL,and i always get cars from elsewhere!If you want an excperienced opinion let it go!Your time is valuable,(even if JEWEL dont think so)keep that in mind.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 631
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From: Saskatchewan
Car: 1992 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Most people are way too optimistic when it comes to this car. I am unsure of where you are from but where I live they would not even bother starting a safety check on this vehicle. I do not want to come off strong but give your head a shake. Every body seam and joint will be so weak its not even funny. Guess what the undercarriage looks like if the doors/ quater panels, ect look that way. Chances are your subframe is soooooo weak that I bet your all your body alignment points are off due to sagging/twisting. You can never make rust go away unless you completely remove it. In this case you would be removing the entire car, which is what should happen. It should be removed and placed into a crusher. It is not safe period. You like speed I bet??? You might change your mind if you are ever in an accident in this car. It has no structure or strength what so ever. You can not begin to fathom the dollars to even start to mickey mouse and half *** repair this. On a lighter note if you are a real optimist you should run better in the 1/4 seeing your car is probably 200 pounds lighter with the absence of metal to weigh you down.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
well driving any more than about 3 hours one way to get a car is really out of the question at this point (long story) and its so damn hard to find a good third gen around here for cheap. i can find some good cars down south, but i really don't want to spend $800 hard earned cash on just shipping!! how did everyone else in the chicago area find their cars? i've been looking all over the net and everything, but nothing has really caught my eye. i would so much rather do engine work than body work. what should i do? so i just buy this car cheaper and use it as an engine donor maybe?
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 631
Likes: 2
From: Saskatchewan
Car: 1992 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I know you are eager to have a car but really sit back and think it out. Its just not worth it to buy something like this. You are far better off waiting it out until something pops up. Just keep looking and do not buy a car just so you can say you have one. If you wait 1 or 2 more months its no biggie. And if you watch what you buy you can have the car as long as YOU want to. If you need to sell it later on, then by having one in good shape you can get some of that money back. Nobody will give you a nickel for that rusty black Z. Just take your time and relax a bit, it will all come together for you.
Okay, I've been in a situation just like you. Bought a cheap Z as a fixer upper, had big intentions, but ended up selling it for a loss.
My car had less rust than that one. Unless you are real good w/ body work, you'll NEVER get the car to look the way you want. And, rust has a funny way of creeping back...
Think about it. New doors, new rear quarters welded in, probably at least one new front fender, t-top plate, t-top weather stripping, etc--it adds up REAL fast. Thats not including your time sanding and bondoing the rest of the car. Also, you'll probably spend about $500-2500 on paint unless you do it yourself. So, is this car really worth $3000-5000 (minimun)? Hell no! That doesn't even include the interior (which is probably a mess) and the running gear. Not to mention that every single bolt you'll try to undo is going to be rusted on very tight. It's a PITA even with an air compressor. If you buy it as a beater or parts car that may be one thing, but it's probably not worth your time restoring it. If you really want it, wait a month or two and he'll drop the price. If it's sold, you'll be sure to see it again in the paper a few months later...
If you've got the time, look for a good platform--a solid low-rust, rust free car. I
My car had less rust than that one. Unless you are real good w/ body work, you'll NEVER get the car to look the way you want. And, rust has a funny way of creeping back...
Think about it. New doors, new rear quarters welded in, probably at least one new front fender, t-top plate, t-top weather stripping, etc--it adds up REAL fast. Thats not including your time sanding and bondoing the rest of the car. Also, you'll probably spend about $500-2500 on paint unless you do it yourself. So, is this car really worth $3000-5000 (minimun)? Hell no! That doesn't even include the interior (which is probably a mess) and the running gear. Not to mention that every single bolt you'll try to undo is going to be rusted on very tight. It's a PITA even with an air compressor. If you buy it as a beater or parts car that may be one thing, but it's probably not worth your time restoring it. If you really want it, wait a month or two and he'll drop the price. If it's sold, you'll be sure to see it again in the paper a few months later...
If you've got the time, look for a good platform--a solid low-rust, rust free car. I
Last edited by MILT; Dec 20, 2002 at 10:37 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,238
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Rust that far gone means a car that is DEAD.
Sorry man, but avoid rust like that as if it were the plague. It is way too far gone. Keep looking, we can all assure you that you will find a MUCH better thirdgen to start with.
Sorry man, but avoid rust like that as if it were the plague. It is way too far gone. Keep looking, we can all assure you that you will find a MUCH better thirdgen to start with.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 244
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5- manual five speed
rust is a cancer man once its gone that far its a donor car. Unless you have good deals on body parts and you want to put in countless hours on restoration. find a nice rust free car that doesnt run ( mechanical problems). work until june on a car like that.
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,537
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From: Naperville, IL
Car: 89 Iroc Hardtop
Engine: LB9 w/G92 Pkg
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt, 3.45
Originally posted by Need4Speed1387
...how did everyone else in the chicago area find their cars?
...how did everyone else in the chicago area find their cars?
If you're looking for a winter project- maybe find a 350 and start rebuilding it until you can find a nice body to drop it in.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
yeah i gave up on that car and moving on to bigger and better things
theres a 3rd gen sitting on the corner for sale about 5 miles away from me that i drove past a few times but with my sister driving, there was no way i could get her to stop. it looks like a 85-89 z28 because it has different colored gfx. well if it turns out to be a V6
do you think i should get that crap car and use the engine? or just go for a rebuilt 350? i really want tpi because of the rediculous gas prices!!
theres a 3rd gen sitting on the corner for sale about 5 miles away from me that i drove past a few times but with my sister driving, there was no way i could get her to stop. it looks like a 85-89 z28 because it has different colored gfx. well if it turns out to be a V6
do you think i should get that crap car and use the engine? or just go for a rebuilt 350? i really want tpi because of the rediculous gas prices!! Supreme Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,228
Likes: 2
From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Originally posted by Need4Speed1387
yeah i gave up on that car and moving on to bigger and better things
theres a 3rd gen sitting on the corner for sale about 5 miles away from me that i drove past a few times but with my sister driving, there was no way i could get her to stop. it looks like a 85-89 z28 because it has different colored gfx. well if it turns out to be a V6
do you think i should get that crap car and use the engine? or just go for a rebuilt 350? i really want tpi because of the rediculous gas prices!!
yeah i gave up on that car and moving on to bigger and better things
theres a 3rd gen sitting on the corner for sale about 5 miles away from me that i drove past a few times but with my sister driving, there was no way i could get her to stop. it looks like a 85-89 z28 because it has different colored gfx. well if it turns out to be a V6
do you think i should get that crap car and use the engine? or just go for a rebuilt 350? i really want tpi because of the rediculous gas prices!! I say get the V8, seeing as how i'm the same age(almost)........It's one of those things, when you get older, you say only if i knew then what i knew now....
You may be satisfied with the V6 for now, but later on down the road it's gonna cause problems, and be a PITA....
Get a RS with a 305 TBI if you still want cheap insurance.....
You may be satisfied with the V6 for now, but later on down the road it's gonna cause problems, and be a PITA....
Get a RS with a 305 TBI if you still want cheap insurance.....
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
That's a parts car (if there are any left that don't need work). Sure, the car can be repaired, but at what cost?
That's a parts car (if there are any left that don't need work). Sure, the car can be repaired, but at what cost?
I'd snag the suspension parts that are good since its a Z (Springs, sawybars, wonderbar), if its got cool wheels keep them (I forgot to look at what year it was), any cool/good interior parts, check the rear end ratio and if its posi or not, pull the motor/wiring harness/computer and tranny, even if beat they'll be rebuildable. Junk whatever is left. It looks like its beyond worth fixing.
Then find an RS that you can buy for a good price that has a completely or nearly rust free body that you can get for a good price. Put all the Z28 stuff on, and you're sportin a nice car. Plus still paying the RS insurance rate, which is cheaper. Thats what I'd do anyway. Provided i had the garage space, which I don't.
Or you can come to Peoria sometime and check mine out, its sitting in storage right now, gonna start advertising it again in the spring its for sale
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 274
Likes: 1
From: Upstate New York
Car: 82 T/A WS7
Engine: Pontiac 400
Transmission: Muncie 4-speed
Need4speed, glad you came to your senses. Now crush those rose colored glasses and NEVER consider buying anything half as rusty as that car.
By the time you made that car nice, (although it never really would be) you could have bought two puff ones.
By the time you made that car nice, (although it never really would be) you could have bought two puff ones.
Supreme Member

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,148
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From: Faribault, Minnesota
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
buy it for the motor:rockon: :rockon: but talk him down before buiying it and just junk the rest. Dont bother with it...maybe turn around and sell it to someone lookin to rebuild a sick guy like that...
I'm in the same shoes! Got my 83 Z for $1100 and hardly has any rust on the outside. Underneath is a different story. After buying the car, found the floor pan was pretty much gone. Today, found out the kick panel is rusted through. Anyhow, still glad I got this, 'cause it's a goldmine as far as parts for my 84 SC. Got a perfectly good parts car here and I'm happy! :lala: I would by that Z28 you're talking about just for the engine/tranny.
Brandon
Brandon
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 6
From: Illinois
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
When I saw the first pic, I thought it wasn't too bad, then when I saw the rest of the pics, then it started to look bad to the massive amount of rust. Man, that IROC makes the rust on the body of my car look insignificant. I think that is just too much work.
Save your time and money and don't pick it up.
Save your time and money and don't pick it up.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
talk about bringing a post back from the dead i thought it was long gone by now... but yeah i realize that car is unsalvagable and have moved onto better things....like this for example....
Originally posted by Need4Speed1387
talk about bringing a post back from the dead i thought it was long gone by now... but yeah i realize that car is unsalvagable and have moved onto better things....like this for example....
talk about bringing a post back from the dead i thought it was long gone by now... but yeah i realize that car is unsalvagable and have moved onto better things....like this for example....
. But....nice car! What's it got under the hood?Brandon
Its a goner
Keep looking. That rusty body is not practical. Theres not enough to work with. It is much more fun to work on one that has a decent body. you will have to bondo, or replace panels, which will cost time, aggrevation and money.
I would say they should pay you to take it away.
FYI a fuel filter can be popped into place in seconds.
I would say they should pay you to take it away.
FYI a fuel filter can be popped into place in seconds.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 84 Challenge
I was using the "search" button & came across this thread. Didn't look at the date
. But....nice car! What's it got under the hood?
I was using the "search" button & came across this thread. Didn't look at the date
. But....nice car! What's it got under the hood?And just to clarify- i am definately not going to buy the black car...i don't know what i was even thinking. rust and bodywork is for sure my least favorite thing to work on!!!
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Clio, MI
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Ace_Murdock
yeah something you would learn alot off of
yeah something you would learn alot off of
Originally posted by Need4Speed1387
lol yeah that blue RS has the crappy LO3 (305 TBI) but maintained religiously and a great runner... i got some plans for it. that black POS that the post was originally about was a 305 TPI.
lol yeah that blue RS has the crappy LO3 (305 TBI) but maintained religiously and a great runner... i got some plans for it. that black POS that the post was originally about was a 305 TPI.
Later,
Brandon



