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Rear Hatch Closes, Sometimes

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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 02:11 AM
  #1  
N.W. T/A's Avatar
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From: Wa. State
Car: 87 WS6 T/A
Engine: 97 LT1
Transmission: T56
Rear Hatch Closes, Sometimes

Hey, I Tried to close it but it didn't pull down, next morning it was closed WTF !! Thanks
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 05:25 AM
  #2  
camarogirl18's Avatar
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From: Maryland...DO I HAVE TO ADMIT TO THAT?!
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 283
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
sounds like you need 2 new rear struts,i think they are called,for it
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 10:33 AM
  #3  
N.W. T/A's Avatar
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From: Wa. State
Car: 87 WS6 T/A
Engine: 97 LT1
Transmission: T56
Yea, They are shot. So why would that cause the hatch not to pull down ? Thanks
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 11:56 AM
  #4  
camarogirl18's Avatar
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From: Maryland...DO I HAVE TO ADMIT TO THAT?!
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 283
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
ghost..lol..j/k

i guess they are just telling you time for new ones..just make sure you replace them before they totally quit on you...you wouldnt want that
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 12:02 PM
  #5  
N.W. T/A's Avatar
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From: Wa. State
Car: 87 WS6 T/A
Engine: 97 LT1
Transmission: T56
ghost now i'm scared.... i'll pick up a new set and see if that helps....... thanks
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 12:39 PM
  #6  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I suggest you start with what you know needs to be replaced (such as the struts). Though I doubt the struts are causing the problems you've described, they are important to prevent the damage I suspect you have with your hatch pull-down unit. Look over the Tech Atricle on this web site that I created. A few things to look for.

First check for +12v at the red with white stripe wire. Next, check if that wire has been disconnected from the blue wire coming from the pull-down unit. Also look and see if the white connector is plugged into the reversing switch. If the gear nut is bad it will cause the motor to run continuously, yet the unit won't raise or lower. A common band-aid is to disconnect either the blue wire or that connector to disable the motor.

If the unit starts acting finicky, (runs sometimes and at other times gets stuck in the up or down position) it is an indication that the striker-sensing switch is bad. You may read of suggestions to play with the little black switch next to the latch. That is the striker-sensing switch. A new one will solve the problem. The switch contains all the wiring for the unit. Just plug in the relay.

If the unit runs up or down and continues to run, it indicates you have a bad reversing switch.

The guides are another area to look at. Grab the latch and see if you get movement front to back (not up/down). This indicates the nylon guides are bad. GM changed the design in 1988 to reduce cost, but they were much weaker than their first design. If they are bad the unit can become jammed and cause the gear nut to be destroyed by the worm drive of the motor shredding the outer teeth. GM never sold the guides, but I make new guides if you need them.

Grab hold of the latch and see if you get up/down movement from it. That indicates that the plastic piece called a motor housing has broken where the 3 screws hold it to the frame. I sell new motor housings that are reinforced in this area with 4 pieces of aluminum and epoxy.

As I indicated originally, good struts are important. If the hatch falls on the latch it will break the plastic motor housing of the pull-down unit.

All the items I've mentioned are available through my web site. Just click on the TDS banner ad above. They are under the "Hatch Pull-Down Items" category on the upper left of the main page.

Good luck,

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

Last edited by lonsal; Aug 1, 2003 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 12:47 PM
  #7  
N.W. T/A's Avatar
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From: Wa. State
Car: 87 WS6 T/A
Engine: 97 LT1
Transmission: T56
Lon, Thanks for the info... I'll be visiting your site for replacement parts........
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