Front Bumper Fix
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Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 319
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Car: 1988 Firebird
Engine: GM Performance Parts 350 HO
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: :(
Front Bumper Fix
After many failed attempts to repair this thing, my neighbor and I finally thought of a way to fix the 3rd gen front bumper cover. This will repair the "bows" that they get from heat and people pushing on the nose. It will not make them concave, but will make them straight.
Heat guns and hair dryers don't work, they don't get the cover nearly hot enough, they just ruin the paint. I even tried getting different body shops to repair it and they all said it was unsaveable.
All you need is a strip of approx "6 X 25" heavy gauge sheet metal, two thick blocks of wood (small enough to fit behind each bow but big enough to cover a lot of area behind the bow), some JB Weld, a breaker bar, and a big *** C clamp.
1. Remove the bumper cover from the car.
2. Make 2 cuts in the sheet metal. This will give you 3 pieces, A, B, and C. Here's a ****ty picture of what I'm talking about.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
l A / / C l
l / B / l
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT: The drawing isn't coming out right after posting, but it's 2 diagonal cuts.
A and C should be the exact size of the areas of the cover with the bows in it behind the bumper cover.
3. Rough up the sheet metal A or C and behind the bumper with coarse sandpaper. Hit them up with some acetone after that.
4. Mix up some JB Weld and put some half dollar sized spots of it on the bumper where you sanded. Put a few spots of it on the sheet metal.
5. Place the sheet metal backing (A or C) on the bumper and B in front of the bumper.
6. Put one block of wood behind A (or C) and the other in front of B. Have someone hold it.
7. Take the C clamp and clamp it but don't tighten it. Straighten the metal/wood out and put the clamp in the center.
8. Start tightening the clamp by hand. You'll hear cracking, but it's just the wood starting to split. Ignore it and keep tightening it up. At this point get the breaker bar and tighten it more. Keep tightening up until the wood gets presssed in a good amount and then tighten it some more.
9. 14 hours later, unclamp everything and you'll be amazed how straight it is. Do the other side the same way (there should be enough JB Weld left for it).
It may not be perfect, but it looks pretty good and is way better than paying $260 for a new cover. After I smooth it with some bondo and paint it, it should be good as new.
Heat guns and hair dryers don't work, they don't get the cover nearly hot enough, they just ruin the paint. I even tried getting different body shops to repair it and they all said it was unsaveable.
All you need is a strip of approx "6 X 25" heavy gauge sheet metal, two thick blocks of wood (small enough to fit behind each bow but big enough to cover a lot of area behind the bow), some JB Weld, a breaker bar, and a big *** C clamp.
1. Remove the bumper cover from the car.
2. Make 2 cuts in the sheet metal. This will give you 3 pieces, A, B, and C. Here's a ****ty picture of what I'm talking about.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
l A / / C l
l / B / l
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT: The drawing isn't coming out right after posting, but it's 2 diagonal cuts.
A and C should be the exact size of the areas of the cover with the bows in it behind the bumper cover.
3. Rough up the sheet metal A or C and behind the bumper with coarse sandpaper. Hit them up with some acetone after that.
4. Mix up some JB Weld and put some half dollar sized spots of it on the bumper where you sanded. Put a few spots of it on the sheet metal.
5. Place the sheet metal backing (A or C) on the bumper and B in front of the bumper.
6. Put one block of wood behind A (or C) and the other in front of B. Have someone hold it.
7. Take the C clamp and clamp it but don't tighten it. Straighten the metal/wood out and put the clamp in the center.
8. Start tightening the clamp by hand. You'll hear cracking, but it's just the wood starting to split. Ignore it and keep tightening it up. At this point get the breaker bar and tighten it more. Keep tightening up until the wood gets presssed in a good amount and then tighten it some more.
9. 14 hours later, unclamp everything and you'll be amazed how straight it is. Do the other side the same way (there should be enough JB Weld left for it).
It may not be perfect, but it looks pretty good and is way better than paying $260 for a new cover. After I smooth it with some bondo and paint it, it should be good as new.
Last edited by Fbird88; Aug 19, 2003 at 10:19 PM.
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