need pic of ac delete?
need pic of ac delete?
i was wondering if someone could take a pic of there ac delete on a carbureted engine with a v-belt and maybe some instructions of how to install it thanx for any help.
Last edited by pont82fbird; Nov 16, 2003 at 08:02 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 3
From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
No real instructions because my 89 Formula came equipped this way...except for the engine

Pete
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Removing the AC compressor from a V-belt car is fairly easy compared to serpentine cars. First the freon has to be evacuated. Then just disconnect the lines at the ac condensor (i think that's what it's called, thing infront of the radiator), remove the belt for the compressor, disconnect electrical connections, unbolt the compressor, and remove the brackets for the compressor, and set the wires aside. I can't see the Carb setup being much different then the TPI. Here's a picture of mine.
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
for some reason i couldnt figure out how to take that box out. so when i took the a/c/ apart i just cracked the box and took it out in pieces. i made an a/c/ delete bok for my catr and used sheet metal screws to attach it.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: E-ville, IN
Car: '86 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah, I personally think they put the ac/heater box on before they did anything else to the car. There is no way for me to get to the remaining bolts. I would have had to take the fender off, pulled the engine, and removed the whole strut tower area to get to the darn things. I am in the process of braking mine apart so I can get to the bolts. I don't know what I will do if I need to take off the non-a/c box since I have a metal one. Hopefully though it will be easier to get to the bolts seeing as how the box is smaller all the way around.
the ac/heater box isnt that hard to remove, you just have to get to a few bolts inside, just take off the panel underneath the dash and the bolts will be easy to get too. then v-belt setups are easier with no AC.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
Transmission: 700R4
For what it's worth, the S-10 heater box is more common (look for 4 cylinder s-10's, lots of companies used them as fleet vehicles). It looks identical to the camaro unit. Mine required different bolt locations, cutting a larger hole for the resistor (or whatever the hell the thing with the coiled wires is) and bending of the flange in one location.
It may also interest you to know that there are lots of other S-10 parts that are direct bolt ins...
It may also interest you to know that there are lots of other S-10 parts that are direct bolt ins...
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Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,512
Likes: 0
From: Tucson
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Here is a before pic when I had my A/C installed, your carb setup should look similar "hose wise at least LOL".
Last edited by 5SIZ; Nov 18, 2003 at 11:10 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,512
Likes: 0
From: Tucson
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Here is the after pic, very big difference in space as you can see, it is definatly easier in a V-belt setup, seeing as how you don't have to spend X amount of dollars for a delete pulley, man do I love my 87 V-belt setup.
Last edited by 5SIZ; Nov 18, 2003 at 11:07 PM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 350 Crate
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
My car came without A/C. I put it in (and sold the a/c delete box)
THERE ARE BOLTS ON THE INSIDE that you must remove, that's why it's a pain to take off. As mentioned, you have to remove the bottom of your dash, and probably pull back the carpet and firewall insulation to see them.
It's not easy. They are a pain to reach, but it's totally doable. I didn't break anything, but I had my interior stripped to the firewall at the time.
Picture is how the original non A/C box looked.
THERE ARE BOLTS ON THE INSIDE that you must remove, that's why it's a pain to take off. As mentioned, you have to remove the bottom of your dash, and probably pull back the carpet and firewall insulation to see them.
It's not easy. They are a pain to reach, but it's totally doable. I didn't break anything, but I had my interior stripped to the firewall at the time.
Picture is how the original non A/C box looked.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Mill Creek, Washington
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: N/A
Transmission: N/A
Well what exactly gets removed.
I got the condesner out (the silver canister) and a lot of the tubing.
But which of these (see picture) gets removed; L or R?.
And by taking all of this out, am I gonna lose my heater and defroster?
I got the condesner out (the silver canister) and a lot of the tubing.
But which of these (see picture) gets removed; L or R?.
And by taking all of this out, am I gonna lose my heater and defroster?
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: ME.
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: TPI
Transmission: 5-speed Rear:3.73
Ive been looking also....ebay has some but they want way too much for them and if you find one on there cheap watch out....
it may be a bidding war...and I'll be in that war too lol
it may be a bidding war...and I'll be in that war too lol
this guy is selling the boxes for 80 bucks i dont know if thats good or not.
http://members.***.net/iroczdave1/IR...rts%20Page.htm
http://members.***.net/iroczdave1/IR...rts%20Page.htm
Modify your box to work. Works great, and best of all, it's free
I used a hacksaw to remove the whole section that had the evaporator in it, and then trimmed up a piece of 20 gauge sheetmetal to fit over the opening. Then all I did was fiberglass it into place and then spray the whole thing with undercoat so I wouldn't have to finish sand or anything. Because of that, it doesn't look quite perfect, but it serves its purpose well, and within the next couple years I won't have any heating system at all
If you want it nice and pretty, use filler on any low or rough areas, sand it smooth, and then paint it with a high gloss paint.

I used a hacksaw to remove the whole section that had the evaporator in it, and then trimmed up a piece of 20 gauge sheetmetal to fit over the opening. Then all I did was fiberglass it into place and then spray the whole thing with undercoat so I wouldn't have to finish sand or anything. Because of that, it doesn't look quite perfect, but it serves its purpose well, and within the next couple years I won't have any heating system at all
If you want it nice and pretty, use filler on any low or rough areas, sand it smooth, and then paint it with a high gloss paint. 
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
They aren't difficult to install at all. There are two bolts (I think they are 10 mm) that you need to put in from the inside. You don't have to take apart your interior. One of them you can see if you look underneath the dash, the other you need to find a cut in insulation right above the end of the carpet. You peel it back a little, and you'll see the other bolt. All the other bolts you can get at from the engine bay. It is probably easier to put in the box without the blower motor bolted onto it. That way, you can see a little better how to line up the box with the holes in the firewall. After that, you just need to bolt up the blower motor. Takes me about 20 minutes taking my time.
I circled the bolt holes in the picture where the bolts go from the inside.
If you guys have any questions, just post them. I'll try to answer them if I can.
By the way, I have a heater box (the one in the pic) in mint condition for sale right now. If you guys are interested email me and we can work something out.
I circled the bolt holes in the picture where the bolts go from the inside.
If you guys have any questions, just post them. I'll try to answer them if I can.
By the way, I have a heater box (the one in the pic) in mint condition for sale right now. If you guys are interested email me and we can work something out.
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