How long can you keep a car in bare metal?

That is if you kept the metal coated in some sort of spray or oil.
Would cheap motor oil be fine?

I work slow but started on my right rear today. Stripped it down to bare metal and it looks so fricking nice. I was thinking if just doing the whole car. Even over the spots I had already fixed.

[Aircraft stripper works so well, why not?]

I found more stray rust under "good paint" then I did sticking out of the bad paint spots. Stuff really hide n runs all over.

Id like to be able to go 3-4 weeks but the car will be out side and driving for short trips.

Just looking for some tips or hints on what to use to keep it from rusting bad while the car sits in bare metal.

 

If you were going to keep it inside, I'd say use metalprep or something similar, but I wouldn't drive or store outdoors any car in bare metal. The humidity and morning dew will cause it to rust almost immediately. Id at least put an etching primer on it to protect it. Iwouldn't use oil...its just going to cause problems when you go to prime and paint, and you'll still get some surface rust.

 

NO OIL!!! :nono: you will have serious problems ever getting all of that out.. You would probably most definitely see fish-eyes in you paint..
sorry man but you just can't drive that thing bare metal..
I did however put a metal prep rub-on primer on all my metal parts called ospho, it is a sort of rust-proofing primer that is put on Gradalls down here in New Phila...
My hood sat in the shop in bare metal for over 3 months with this stuff on, and it didn't even show a spot of rust..
As for driving around with it on, I wouldn't push my luck..
I'd suggest spraying on some etching primer..

Here's a pic of my hood and fenders.. They had the ospho on them and they sat that way all winter...
just my .02

 

I don't know how well this will go over but I kind of like the car in bare metal. If the car was 100% straight n clean I may try to come up with a way to keep it bare forever. Have that stainless look with out the expense.

 

what happens if you put lots of coats of clear coat

 

I don't know. Might need clear primer?

But it looks really nice in bare metal. Very sleek n fast looking. I "had" nice blakc paint on most of that part but no paint looks better.

 

sand it down and polish it! haha
wait... plastic bumpers would ruin the "bare metal" look..

And i don't think it looks sleek or fast.. I would see it and say "poor guy can't afford a paint job"

I don't mean to sound like an A**hole, but i feel that in a couple of weeks, you will look at your "bare metal" look and see it as rediculous.. kinda like fur-covered headliners


anyways, lets see some pics of your car in bare metal.. So i can give an honest opinion , because i hated the look of bare metal on my car. I was so happy when i sprayed on etching primer..

 

I know what you need. You need Luminore! Check it out, www.luminore.com. If you need some, email pchapman_67@hotmail.com and he'll hook you up!

 

You got a basic price on that spray metal???

 

That was if my car was 100% straight n clean.

Only have the right rear bare now but it looks nice.

 

Well, how did they keep the Deloreans from rusting?


I know where you are coming from man, my whole car is bare right now and I am totally digging it. But I already bought the paint, so oh well.

What if you were to just paint it silver?

 

delorians are stainless steel and dont rust

 

 

Does your car have the brass body line? wonder if it stock or not.

 

Oh BTW guy on another list told me about BEHR concert etch / rust remover at home depot. Its $13 a gal and he was able to keep a care in bare metal for a month on Florida.

Gonna give it a shot.

 

yeah, my car has that body line as well.. it is stock


Where in ohio are you located?
unless you garage you car during the winters.. bare metal will be a big problem...

 

Yeah... What is the story behind the brass body line? I was confused by this when I stripped my car.

 

The factory apparently brazes the seam where the quarter meets the roof; my 87 TA was the same way. Brass has a lower melting point than steel, so less heat is needed than with regular welding and there is less chance of warpage. I wouldn't use it on a car body (though the factory stuff is fine) since most fillers will react with brass rod.
BTW it is possible to clear over bare metal ( a painter friend was telling me about a special clear made for that...not sure if its in production though), though I'm not sure how long it would last. I have seen a few imports around here with "tear" graphics on their hoods, with bare metal showing through (clearcoated) , and it looked pretty cool. Unless you're an expert metalman, I wouldn't do it, since any flaws in the metal are going to show.

 

I would not let it go no more then 3 to 4 days if the air is dry and no more then a day in high humidity then metal prep and prime with epoxy primer witch is a water prof primer

 

not long at all

mine sat for a week in a dry place with some sort of coating on it. after a week it was alrealy starting to go

 

That is how you paint a car. I wish I could go that far. I will most likely end up with grade A- body n prep with a C+ maco job. easy to prep n all the crap out side but try painting.

I could build a temp garage. I have a garbage bag that a 40 foot camper could fit in.

That behr stuff works well. Already got some and blasted everything I had in sight with rust one it. It does one heck of a job. most surface rust just disappears n the rest turns black. Once dry the coating cant be removed unless you wash it off with its self. Water wont remove it. been over 24 hrs and no return of the rust monster. where while I still had some paint to strip on the lowers. I had rust 30 secs after washing the stripper off.

btw

at first I kept the fender from rusting to bad by keeping a coat of aircraft stripper on it. I just brushed it on lightly. But this stuff works better. and not $8 a quart.