hey my camaro is in good shape.. i replace the right fener.. the only things i am having trouble with is scratches in the bumpers also what to use to fix them also some minor dents... what body fillers.. im just having trouble doing everything. The guy that my dad knows said do the body work and i will paint a white pearl for you for 150. so i have to prep every inch of this car.. PERFECT. any suggestions to make this easy or tips i need to kno its getting painted in the middle of august or sooner.. if the work is done

 

yeah why not paintit black, that thing will look great! Jmo

 

color doesnt matter right now.. it feels like the car will never make it in body work with my doing it.. another color later on.. a possibility. but right now all the jams are white ect... white pearl is gunna be its paint

some scratches on the rear bumper.

 

Things you will need

*orbital sander w/ alot of papers, 200 - 1000 grit
*body fillers range in quality, depends on how much you love her
*primer/sealer, don't go cheap, this sh$% can have a major effect on finish texture and gloss
*I like 3M for most of the body stuff, but it can get very pricey
*for the bumper plastic, a light filler usually will cut it, as you will be sanding most of it away

The car will look good in pearl, but sexy if it is smooth, that will be your show, put alot of time in now, for the payoff later on

enjoy the work, hope the learning curve does'nt spike to many times for you. not sure how much i helped you out, but i thought i would throw in 2 cents on this one

Cheers

 

yeah it did help.. the only thing that ticks me off when im using filler.. i did buy cheap stuff. "bondo" and recently have heard horrible stuff on that type of filler. so my did is going to get me top dollar stuff at his body work. But back to what i was saying about the filler.. when i get it to the perfect shape and smooth, i then relize little tiny holes.. then i gotta friggin go over it with a smooth coat and then find somemore!!! ugh!!!! what causes this.. and also what can i put around the scoop to stop the filler from cracking.. the hoods only temporary till i get a fiberglass one from harwood

 

please help?

 

you will not need sand paper in excess of 500 grit (max) ... whoever uses 1000 grit on body work is on crack

 

k

 

now does your dad work at a body shop?


why not ask him to point you in the right direction. it would be alot easier than tring to figure it out here.

you first step should be the search button there are alot of post pertaining to bady work general questions. Thinga you need to know what type of paint is going to be use to paint the car. makes a difrence in fillers and sealer and primers. is it single stage or base clear, what brand you need the same brand primers.... or is you paint guy gonna prime?

on your bumper there is some major adhesion issues there,,, is the rest of the car pealing like that?

any way you have to strip the bumper back to raw material. search on sanding the bumper covers it has been posted numerious times. do not use to low a grite or you will be hard pressed to ever get it smooth again.

if the entire car is pealing you have bad primer and need to strip to bare metal etch or epoxy prime, no rattle can stuff, after etched or epoxy primed you can do your filler and 2k primer and then block sand to get all smoooth and guide coat to fine any low spots.

Hope this helps you get the decision process going. look at my other post on my project restoration (3 parts)( 1, 2, 3,)

 

all those primer spots was that from a rattle can?

if so sand it al off won't work with automotive style paints..

 

yeah it was just to see how the filler looked blended.. thanks i will get it all off. k thanks.. nah the hole cars not pealing

 

for the holes in the bondo, you are getting it too dry, take you can to a paint place and have them put it in a shaker, it sounds as if the bondo is old and seperated (just to mix it up good do not add hardner to the can). Then check your hardner, if you put to much in it hardens to fast and you will get air bubbles in it as you work it. Mix it to a pinkish color put it on, don't work it to much in its wet stage, I find it easer to sand it to the shape I want. Just remember un sealed bondo will absorbe water, even through the rattle can primer. So don't leave it in the rain until you get some sealer primer on it.

 

double post sorry..

 

hey guys thanks for the good tips. KEEP them coming. i like when people list all the good products to use here from experience. About this sealer? whats the exact sealer im gunna need for a good filler.. im gunna get rid of this P.O.S bondo and get some high dollar filler from my dads work. also about primer how it doesnt work compatible with the paint their gunna use.. as you guys say that its not compatible since its spray can.. what should i use to cover the spots of bare metal? thanks

 

bare metal should be painted with epoxy or etch primer shot from an automotive spray gun hooked to a proper compressor protected with water filters and desicant filters so there is no water in paint sprayed. rattle can primer has diffrent chemicals thay won;t bond properly to automotive brand paints. call you paint guy and ask him waht system he is going to spray. ppg omni dupont house of kolor ect. laquer ? urathane enamel ect.. brand and type then buy primer from that brand and that product line. then there will be no problems.

Jeff

 

what should stop the hood scoop from cracking around the border where i filler'd it flush?

 

help me here : )

 

Hey Jeff, are you saying no rattle can primer no matter what wont work with automotive paint? I think I used duplicolor. I filled holes like crazy3rdgen and primered them with a rattle can since I dont have a spray gun or compressor. What then should I use to cover up the spots I primered? If I just sand the primer off and leave it like that, will you be able to see the spots that were filled after it was painted?

 

hes saying that you should stick with the same brand of primer as the brand paint. then it should go fine.. this is my post!! ERRR

 

If you want to make your life a whole lot easier, I think you will find many of the products that Evercoat has to offer of great use.... Bondo in my opinion is somewhat more difficult to shape. Evercoat’s Z-grip (cost is about $10 a gallon) and is one of the easiest shaping fillers you can use; with a little practice you can perform small miracles on dents and replacement panels. Stick with the MetalWorks® System they have to offer and I would be surprised if you weren’t happy in the end. I am not a professional body man, but have done some decent repair work using their products. Get everything straight now and use a good quality primer and sealer, otherwise you are going to be fighting a never ending battle with what ever fillers and glazes you use. This is the company’s website… http://www.boatarmor.com/productSection.aspx Think of paint only as the amplifier of your prep work. Paint doesn’t cover pin holes, it only points them out.

 

but what about the filler cracking around teh 4 inch cowl? this hood is only temporary for the mean time till i get a 4inch fiberglass from harwood but i still want this to look nice.. what can stop this and seal it from any crack what so ever that seems to pop up after i fix it

 

well i can't say for sure but mixing diffrent brands may cause problems, as for rattle cans they often have propelants and other chemicals that don't interact well with auto paints systems. If it is a repair like a bondo and duplocolor job that you are leaving on the car...that is fine no problem...just don;t expect to paint over it with some ppg or dupont or hok etc... its not worth the 2 dollar to leave it there . painting is expensive and labor intensive make it right the first time and save some greif.

Yes primer may show..but you need to protect the filler from getting wet. so rattle car is your only choice. it must be RE-prepped before painting.

Jeff

And P.S. these are everyones post

 

i was just messen:lala:

 

what should stop the hood scoop from cracking around the border where i filler'd it flush?

 

i am no expert on that, but i would think that you may have needed some type of kitty hair filler or there is a new bondo that has fiberglass stings in it just like kitty hair, that would give it more strenght. hoods are tough on bondo repairs as the flex alot.

use quality fillers..... evercoat has some great products.....

 

For the plastic repairs try the SEM plastic repair products, it will flex and expand & contract along with the plastic.. They can get expensive ($15 for 8oz) but you won't be using much of it.

 

its fiberglass. and its the bondo thats cracking

 

Any time you bondo a fiberglass peice onto metal it will crack, it gets flexed and expands at different rates. Your best bet is to get rid of the bondo and glass it into the hood, but you will still end up with cracks sooner or later.

 

i guess i'll just deal with it since in going to be getting a fiberglass hood anyway later on. but also avitor.. i tried instant messaging to talk to you but your never on u always have your away message up

 

I'm on some I added you to my list, been kinda busy this week.