stran63r

That is just a rear hatch latch with a remote swiwtch, right?

what year do you think that is off of?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

That is a hatch solenoid release. Not a motorized hatch pull-down unit. It will only fit the manual (slam) latch used from 1982-85, possibly 86. There were two styles of manual latch. One has an alignment pin the other (as shown in your picture) doesn't. This solenoid should mount to either one.

FYI, the manual slam latch will not mount on a car originally equipped with a hatch pull-down unit.

Lon

stran63r

thank you, that was the main thing I was wondering about, if I could put it in my car.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Putting it into an '87 would involve a lot of work. You'd have to cut the attachment portion from a donor car and weld them into yours. Are you looking to add a slam latch in place of your motorized pull-down unit or are you looking to add a solenoid hatch release to your pull down?

Lon

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Not to hijack this thread, but:

First, I must say I am looking to do both. However, before I go for the manual latch, I would like some information about the modified GM latch housing from TDS. I know that the GM part (20160851) is $40 and the TDS part is slightly more than that, but I would like some reliability. I need to know how well the reinforced housing stands up to abuse, since my hatch tends to not like to stay up except when it is like 85 degrees outside and sunny... Yes, I am going out today to get new lift supports for both the hood and hatch, but winter around these parts tends to be rough...

Does the solenoid from the early latch bolt up to the power lock housing or am I looking for trouble there? I can get the whole manual assembly and make a plate for it to attach to the bracketry in the cargo compartment if need be.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I can't give you a difinitive strength improvement of the reinforced motor housing compared to the standard un-reinforced one. I can tell you that I can't recall of my customers that purchased the hundreds sold over the past nearly 3 years contacting me that theirs have broken.

The solenoid hatch release was an option for the hatch pull-down units. You'd need to pick up the correct solenoid realease. The one you showed in the picture isn't the correct one. I have several of the correct solenoid releases for the hatch pull-down units in stock. They are simple to add, just a single 10mm screw to remove to install it. The solenoid release also includes the cable that attaches to the back side of the manual lock cylinder. Of course you'd also need to add the switch, relay and run the wiring back to the solenoid.

Lon

stran63r

well the electric motor in mine is broken, won't latch without repeted closing of the hatch. The motor is dead the only thing that works on mine is the solenoid. So I figured why not just try and get a slam latch since thats basically what mine is forced to be. I mean its cheaper than buying another electric one.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Okay. I have everything except the soleniod itself already, and the wire that runs to the back has been reinstalled. I have just one more question:

Can I somehow make a bracket of sorts to mount the older latch to the newer mountings? Finding a junkyard unit with a good housing around here is like finding a particular needle in a stack of needles, and I don't have the cash for a reman one.... I'd rather go with the manual latch but it seems like I should go with the TDS reinforced housing with a new gear nut to go with it...

stran63er: You can remove the motor unit from the body and disconnect the motor from the wiring. After this is done, as a temporary solution, you can manually extend the latch using the gear nut to a specified height. Too high, and the hatch won't shut all the way, too low, and it won't latch properly .

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Since I'm starting to get more inquiries for the hatch release solenoid I've added it to my web site. It is TDS 404080. Previously I'd just been selling it as "misc used part". You'll notice that it attaches completely differently than the one stran63r originally posted.

Lon

Crayz9000

I had to replace the gearbox housing on my '86 power hatch. The main problem with them, it seems, is that people like to slam the hatch regardless. If you don't slam the hatch (that's what the friggin motor is for) then the gearbox should hold up longer.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Or the hatch slams itself due to weak supports in the middle of cold weather...