has anyone every had or heard of anyone having their 3rd gen sandblasted???? is this an easy way to prep for paint and new interior???? does it affect your wires under the carpet..... thanks

 

Not an expert on the subject, but I believe it would depend on the type of sandblasting media used. I believe if you use plastic beads, the wire looms and things of that nature should be ok. Sorry I couldn't give you anymore info than that.

 

you dont sandblast bodys... the heat from the friction of the sand would distort the bodypanels.


you can use softer blasting media..... but be aware it gets EVERYWHERE in every place imaginable.


and you have to take the whole car apart because of that...


the "easiest" method is just sanding.
keep in mind, all methods of bodywork are timeconsuming... its just the nature of the job

 

i gutted the car cause im getting new interior and everything, only thing left in is the ripped up driver seat.... do i still have to take it apart after sandblasting? or is regular sanding still preferred? thanks mrdude and all.....:hail:

 

after calling aprox 23 shops here in pgh, pa, here's what i got, i can sandblast the entire car to get rid of the old paint and rust to get it ready for primer..... the windows and dash have to be covered though and im good to go.... $65/hr and may take about 3 hrs for entire car and under coat.....

 

I also looked into media blasting but shops in in California would not recommend it on any of the bumpers or GFX. They would only blast the metal body parts. Have you considered having the body dipped. There are a few pictures of a user on this site and it looks fantastic.

 

where r the pics??? thanks

 

just use some aircraft grade paint stripper, and DA sander, it took me all of a few minutes to remove the paint from my hood rite down to the primer.

 

will that cure the rust spots??

 

Is there any way to remove the blasting medium or will there always be unseen residue? My car will be blasted, but it will be a bare, gutted shell.

- 89_IROC

 

Triggers dipped frame and primed

 

i dont have the money like trigger to dip my ride, its completely gutted except for the drive seat (so i can from shop to home...) i wish i could that, how much did that cost? and where?

 

can the left over residue be wet sanded? i need to know also...

 

the body shop i use had to sand blast the a-pillar to do some work and it took 4 months before the sand quit falling out on me..

 

dont they spray it with air or rinse it??? if my car is just all metal and fram with just the driver seat, will sand still be in it?

 

That's what I'm looking for, too. There's gotta be a way to get all (or at least most) of the sand out. Dipping is going to be expensive and there's still a risk of the dipping liquid being trapped somewhere that it shouldn't be, isn't there?

- 89_IROC

 

never heard of dippin' ... but im gonna take may chances with the blasting.... ill use a broom if i have to! it cant be that bad if theres nuthin in the car to trap the sand... i'll give the under carrage a good rinse at the car wash next summer.....

 

Dippin' - like Trigger did in the above pic

- 89_IROC

 

how much was it trigger? hook us up.....!

 

..

 

i looked at have the body just blasted with baking soda. but soda will not remove the rust and they still have to go back over it with the sand for the rusty parts.

the blasting was only $150 cheaper than the dipping. tatal cost for me was $700US so cost was not a huge issue. its all the other things you have to do for dipping that make it a big deal.

when you dip. you have to remove everything. and i mean everything. no wires at all. no rubber at all. no glass, no plastic. only metal. this kind of paint and rust removal is for a full paint and restore project.

the hole suspention also has to be out. the acid that the car is dipped in will remove everything. you then have only a few days to get the hole thing into primer or it will be a rust bucket in a week

the place that did it for me

http://www.technostrip.com/

 

Personal curiousity question.. what do you do about the parts you can't paint/reach like the insides of the rockers/frame rails and all the overlap seams/hard to reach areas once dipped ?

 

well... that is a very good question. nothing that i know of. in my case the rockers need to be rebuilt and the rest for the most part you can get in there with a small touch up gun.

But if you just blasted it with sand how does the sand get in the seam to get the rust out?

after paint the car can be Zbart to help but there is nothing that i know of that is 100%

i am still open to ideas for rust prevention down the road.

 

I am going to do something along these lines to my car in the near future.

My plan is to use aircraft grade paint stripper to remove most of the paint and use sand blaster to get the rust spots out and also for underbody. As people mentioned, you should be careful because lots of friction generates heat, but from what I read, plastic media is softer and barely generates any heat, so it should is definitely a better alternative to actual sand. Then I've also heard of people using wallnut shells and those supposed to be quite decent.

The blasting media is just a very fine poweder solid, so I don't think residue is an issue. Definitely not more of an issue than dust you will collect while sanding down the primer.

Blasting is better than DA sander to get to some of the spots and crevises (sp?), but I spoke to the body shop people and they told me that for very hard to reach places, the best you can do is use a spray can of stuff (forgot the name) that chemically turns rust into black primer. Then you can spray right on top of that. They also said it is a good idea to use the same stuff over the body if there is any place where you can't get the rust 100% out. If you are curious about the name, I should have a can in the garage somewhere, but right now it is a mess. I am in the process of building a booth where I can blast and spray the car.

Another thing for rust preventon is this stuff. Body shop told me it goes right over rust (not too much of it, no loose pieces) and supposed to be very durable. They said it is not as strong as powder coat, but more flexible, so in the end it gives almost the same protection. It is similar to Por-15, but apparently costs a lot less. It doesn't like UV rays, but for where the sun don't shine, underbody, suspension pieces, bumper reinforcements, this stuff is supposed to be really good.

 

There are soem companys that can use a hot-dip galvanized process. Just like the dip to remove everything they keep the process going and hot dip it to retreat the metal.

 

any in the pgh or western p.a area????

 

If you're going all out...dipping is great. But does your car have that much rust to worry about that?

And take HEED to the earlier post...you must remove EVERYTHING....clips, grommets, trim, EVERYTHING. It's ALOT more work than most people realize.

Me personally? Unless it's a personal reason ( sentimental value etc ) I'd only start w/ a rust free car...they are too easy to find in a 3rd gen not to.

I've wrenched on several full resto ( body off etc ) and we dipped one car...it was a '65 Goat....and it was rusty. And it wasn't my car, it wasn't my money, or I would have found a rust free car to begin with.

All said and done....that guy ended up having over $50k in a car worth half that.

And after all that he was too afraid to drive it anywhere. Still in his garage for all I know.


Sandblasting is a different animal. Sand gets everywhere ( imagine rolling around in the sand, full-clothed....you'll get the picture ) and that stuff loves to surface and the best times....

Right before sealing / priming when you're cleaning the car w/ compressed air....that sucked... lol...


Maybe I'm just getting old and lazy...but I'd rather drive 1500 miles and buy a rust free V-6 car for $500 and tow it home, than start w/ the best performance model with any amount of cancer...

 

i understand, i drove 500 miles for my 85 iroc, its not a rust bucket but a few spots here and there... the metal under the passenger seat is almost gone and can see thru to the ground... i can easily get that cut and welded just need the minor rust gone b4 i paint........ any other methods????:hail:

 

Just DA it all down. cut the rust out. replace the panels.

blastings is a royal PITA. next thing you know your tac clothing the car down to pay the primer down and you find more media that came form unknown areas that you would have never thought sand would still be.