So I went out and priced some paint at NAPA and the guy came up with $222 for everything I'd need to paint my car (paint, clear, reducer, hardener)

Well since I'm a poor 17 year old working at Pizza Hut I don't have that kind of money to paint my car. So I got to thinking, I like the look of black primer but when primer gets dirty you can't wash it, so I was wondering what happens when you clear coat primer? will it still be dull looking? will it seal the primer? will I be able to wash it and keep it clean?

 

I think primer looks ok by itself. This is how mine came out using primer satin black from ACE hardware on my old 88.

 

Yea I really like that, but I was curious if clear coat changes the appearance of it and prevents surface rust from forming.

 

all clearcoat is, is a regular paint with no pigment, so its just like spraying any other paint on top of primer.

 

Sorry, but you couldn't be more wrong.
The clearcoat is most of your protection and hold out.
All the UV screeners are in the clearcoat... most of the solids and chip protection are in clear...
All the repairability is part of it as well. When its polished and refreshed all the appearance is on the surface.

In answer to your question, I'm reasonably sure we've all thought about cleared primer, but how many people would execute that plan? (I had a buddy in college that had a black primer car that was clean ... and he would take care of it like it was a nice paintjob, every time he washed it he would use an armor all like product called black gold to shine it up.)
All the expense is in the primers, sealers, hardeners, and clears...
The basecoat is minimal cost, so what are you really saving?
I really do understand the broke teenager thing (I extended mine well past it's prime) but the cost you're throwing out there is CHEAP!! 222.00 for a complete must mean you're using enamel?

 

$222 to paint a car is the cheapest I've ever seen. I got my clear and color at cost for $350 and that was a good deal. And clear on top of primer is going to be a bit shinier, it may actually look like a nice charcoal finish.

 

Save some more pennies and dont chince out at this point. The paint makes the car, so why save $100 in base coat and half azz with the primer only??? You've got that car coming around alot better than last yr, keep the momentum, and dont cut corners at this point!!!!

Alot of my racing buddies were stuck in primer stage last yr cuz shortage of funds...or funds going into the drivetrain, anyways, my freind with a 66GTO stumbled onto GoJO handcleaner for "cleaning his primer" He'd wash it then go over it with GoJo after he dried it, I have to admit it made the primer look as though it just rolled out of the paint booth, nice bright and clean. Just dont know if I'd wanna be the one buying and shooting the paint over something that been polished with a petrolium based cleaner.

The clear should bring out a shine even if sprayed over the base. Anybody ever seen a car after the base is done- DULL!! Some of the old Hot Rods looked good Flat Black primer, but I think I'd opt for real paint myself.

Cheapest i know of is the Omni 1 step paint, what color are you going to squirt it anyways. If nothing else paint it white since that's the cheapest

 

The paint I priced was a basecoat/clearcoat, not enamal, and the color was black, he said black and white are the cheapest then he showed me the price of red which was in the $300 range.

Another reason I want to primer it is because I can do it all this weekend, and since I'm doing it myself in my garage I need to get it all done before it's too cold, and seeing as how I live in Iowa there isn't much nice weather left. I have been driving the car with grey primer for awhile now, it's really grown on me but it just stains way too easy.

Heres some pictures of my cars
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/501903/3

 

You guys are all suckers, if you want to paint a car for cheap you need to find a john deer retailer and get a gallon of Blitz Black. Its about 20-30 bucks a gallon lays on smooth and finishes in semi gloss. The best part about it is that it covers damn near anything. If you want a cheap paint job thats the way to go.

 

Do they have red? That's right, STFU.

 

no but you can get international red for a similar price from an international dealer if people used there brains they would save alot of $$$$$ as the saying goes none are more easily parted from the money than fools

oh and sorry if i seem harsh

 

I'm sure tractor paint looks quite as good as Dupont as well.

 

You should see all the cars in show circuits in the midwest here running JD green, International red, Allis Chamlers Ornge, Ford Blue, Cub Cadet Yellow!!!! Base/clear is for fools with too much money to do things the right way!!! Dang it...I'm a fool. Did you know Dollar General sells spray bomb for only $1?? You could easily paint your ride for under $40-and have a multiple choice of colors other than what tractors are painted!!

On another note, buildings cars in geaneral is a waste of money that's easily parted with to the guys that care about what they're doing. How many guys build a $5000 motor, buy $2000 set of rims, $3000 paint job and then beetch cause gas went up .$10, sodas now cost $1, entry fees are higher for events? We call that the "John Dere mentality" round these parts, guys that spend $20 to save $1, thanks to all the employees at the JD plant here in town. They make more than than anybody in this area, gripe cuz they're under paid, think everything is over priced until it's something they really want (or THEY are trying to sell),but it's okay to buy a $50K pick-up that's more truck than they really need, a $25K Harley cuz it's "cool", but then the stuff that should be done right, they find everyway possible to cobble it so they can save a few dollars .....but then later, wish they'd a done it right the first time since now they're paying to do the same thing TWICE!!!! These types of people will NEVER admit this, been around them long enough to know, and they can think of ever excuse why their half-azz plan did'nt work out the way they "thought" and then try to talk down about how much so & so spent to have it done. :lala: I think the green in the JD paint is really from something else put in the mix-and the filtration system dont work in the factory!!LOL

 

Thats not what i meant if you dont have enought cash for a base clear combo or are painting a beater i dare you to find a better way to paint a car than that. Theres absolutely no reason you cant get a decent looking car out of enamel paint, and by the way have you ever heard of the Viva Las Vegas show, or Hunnert Car Pile Up, or the James Dean Run a good portion of the cars at events like that are painted with paints like the said. Besides not every car owner requires an expensive paint job to be happy with there car. These are just a simple and cheap alternative to higher dollar paints it might not be for your application but if your talking cheap its a damn good way to go.

 

Why not just use black paint spray bombs instead of primer. Ive done 2 black spray bomb jobs in high school and they look pretty good for costing about $20.

 

How about we see some pictures!

 

Pictures from me? It was high school, like 7 years ago, and both cars (grand am and bronco) were not mine and are long gone.

 

Or you could use rustolium. Its dirt cheap comes in a bunch of colors gloss, flat, semi gloss, and clear. they even have tinted clears. Three different types of primer for different levels of rust prtection. It is available in rattlecan for small jobs, pints, quarts, and gallons. I painted my car with it and you can not tell the difference beetween my rustoleum and real car paint.

 

No, of the tractor paint from whoever has used it.

 

I hired a guy to work in a shop I ran that used to paint cars on the side with "rustoleum" and after seeing 3 of these cars in person I will beg to differ and actually be willing to place money that anybody really "into" cars will be able to spot these "Wal-Mart" rustoleum paint jobs over legit paint jobs anyday-otherwise everybody would be doing it. Enamel paint jobs are soft and easily spotable (word??), hard to repair, to anybody that knows wtf is going on. Not to mention the 1 month curing process of these enamel based paints-minimum. I agree that they will "look" better than flaking clear coat and rust for most guys that dont care, but are not even close to being considered a "serious" paint job by novice's or guys that give a chit about what they work on and claim and "their car"!!!!.

I've met this guy in person on a few occasions, and given the pace he's setting for himself and this car of his, if he even considered some goofy azz thoughts of you back woods penny pinching fockers, I'd never have respect for him again(or anybody else) and I dont think he would respect himslef in the long run either. There are places to cut back when money is tight, but for gods sake, the paint job is something that everybody see's. Keep the penny pinching for stuff only you'll know about!!! -

Almost like throwing a greasy junk yard four banger in your car-it'll work and be alot cheaper than a V-8 to get it on the road)-but everybody will know how goofy you really are!!

I'll leave it at that, and just buy more stock in Wal-mart for this painting fad that is sure to asweep the nation

 

I'm not exactly looking for the cheapest way to paint a car. I'm just wondering if I can primer my car and clear coat it. Once it's clear coated I want to be able to wash it like a normal paint job. I would just leave the primer on, but it stains so easily and doesn't come out. I've also been told about rustoleum, can I buy a rustoleum flat black paint and not even bother clear coating it? Since its called rustoleum I'm assuimg it'll seal the car and not absorb moisture like primer?

 

Im not sure about that I have only used the gloss black and the gloss white. I would still recoment clearcoating it though just to protect it from oxidising (not sure if I spelled that right).

IHI....................

WTF man you make me feel like **** about painting my car with rustoleum. I know that is your opinion but that presentation of your point was uncalled for. It is not half assed to want to protect your car from the oncomming winter. I do not have a garage so my car lives outside. I dont have alot of money to through at a $3000+ paintjob just to prevent rust. So I put rustolem on it. It looks good (way better than most maaco paintjobs) and keeps my car rust free nice and cheap. So next time keep your high budget to yourself and realise that there are people out there that dont have alot of money and need to use non traditional methods to solve a problem.

P.S. I do plan on having my car covered in "real" paint when I have the money but right now working on suspension engine ect first.

 

If it looks good then who cares? Mock them for wasting money. However I have yet to see a good "cheap" paint job. That doesn't mean they aren't out there, I WANT someone to prove me wrong so I can save money on my new project camaro.

 

BI:
It's not about high budget at all. I was in your shoes as well as many others growing up and working on my cars. There are places to cut corners and paint is just not one. Even when I was 16 and painting my first car, I did what i had to do to get the right stuff the first time. If it meant not buying the amps I wanted, forgoing taking the girlfreind out to the big buck wine and dine establishments, etc...I made sacrifices which all of us have to make. I'm not professional painter by any means, but having painted everything on my own up until this car, I have some experience to speak from as well as yrs of trial and error, wasted money, etc...and I can tell you, the only thing that got rustoleum were brakcets I fabbed up for this or that, not on the outside of a car. And after seeing a few cars with the rusto paint applied-they look better than a flaking clear beater bucket, but are by no means a "quality" paint scheme. Why do you want to go through all the trouble of painting a car TWICE??!!!

I'm sure you cut corners when prepping your car to apply the Rust paint, but if your serious about spending the money on all the right stuff to even get the car prepped, youo know not to waste that kind of money and time knowing you'll have to do it again. Kinda like buying everything to rebuild a motor, then just half heartedly throwing it together saying to yourself-"this is good enough but I'll have to do it over again once I get the new tires bought, shocks bought, etc...insert your own parts.

Sorry to offend you, but growing up around guys that half-azzed stuff, i know where it gets you in the long run. So me trying to intervein between a guy that has already done so and a guy thinking about it, is my moral obligation to help make the "smart" descion. Think moneys tight now, just think how dumb your gonna fell when you start paint job #2 and look at the time/money your already wasted that could've went to something worth while. I apologize if that makes you feel bad, but if you cant HONESTLY grasp the concept, there is no hope at this time.

I've been there and done this, so dont think I woke up every morning with a silver platter. I have worn your shoes and know how tight money can get-that's when you look back at the money spent and know it was the right way to do it, it makes it all the more pleasent.

 

Nuff said

 

i can tell you from experience rustoleum WILL rust through. i used it on a bus i was restoring and it rusted through in about 2 months. get some epoxy primer if you want to stay in primer and dont want rust.

 

here is a rattle can paint job. not my car but i think it looks outstanding!

 

Like they say, a pic is worth a thousand words!! Now somebody with a good shot of a real paint job post it, then look at the 2 pics, be honest with yourself, and the answer will be right in front of you ..literally!!

If you were gonna race hobby stock, that kinda paint would be great. For a daily....get the real stuff

 

Was not going to read all the back in forth, but wanted to add in my 2 cents....

I have gotten alot of parts from junkyards....many of which have been rattle canned. I have busted my butt to prep these parts for real paint. I have also stripped down 2 cars with real paint. I have painted with both real paint and rattle can paint.

What I found...the rattle can stuff is the biggest pain to sand off....you have to get it all off to ever repaint a car. It gums up sand paper (have to use 3x as much to sand the same part), will not sand even. The real paint sands even and does not gumm up the paper. For someone like you who plans to paint the car right, I think this will only serve to make you miserable later. The body panels I have seen in rattle can...alot have rust forming and dull finishes. They have not held up in the weather and as they break down they allow moisture in...viola...rust!

By nature the rattle can paint was designed as a touch up. To get you by so repair or scratches can be protected till real body work and paint can be done. See in rattle can paint there are stricter safety and environmental standards that have to be met. They know the stuff it going to be sprayed into the air, by someone who does not wear a mask, esp not a suit, the left overs get tossed in the reg trash, and needs to dry in a reasonable amount of time, & since it will sit on the shelf the same type of catalysts can't be used, or it will dry up. Real paint should be done in a booth to capture the fumes and particles, with protection, and will dry up in a cup if sitting out. So the rattle can paint is not even close to the same stuff. It does not hold up like real paint. It will dull and the UV protection in rattle can paint is a joke. The color will darken in no time. Yellow pigments just fade right out. You can't really cut and buff like a real paint job either. Unless you buy the good rattle can stuff...duplicolor, plasticoat, etc... The amount of cans you have to use is tripled, to get the same coverage. Cheap stuff will not cover for crap and comes out so blochy and uneven, its scarey....

So what you can do with good primer...it is not really recommended, but you can get an epoxy primer...spray the car...DO NOT SAND AT ALL...the primer will have a skin that will remain resistant to the weather for a bit of time. If this skin is disturbed or sanded all its weather resitance it gone. It will absorb moisture and allow the metal to rust. THIS IS NOT TRUE OF ALL PRIMERS! Most will absorb water, even unsanded, and then rust will begin to form, even under the primer. ESP rattle can primers.

Clearing over a primer....I have not had any experience in this to really advise you. I don't see why it would not protect the primer. I'm sure if you use real clear (not rattle can) it will protect better then just leaving the primer bare. The finish will more then likely be shiney like clear coat. It will be easier to sand and refinish later, when compared to using rattle can color and clear. Not sure how much cheaper only clear will be.

 

Pics of my baby in primer...

In base coat...
WET:

DRY:....notice the sail panel area and rear...you can see the satin finish when compared to above pic...

Clear fresh out of the booth...

Pic of bumper cover gleeming....


Here is the rattle can pic....Paint looks dull to me...almost satin like...look at the front bumper cover!

 

I see what you are saying about doing it right the first time and I agree but I am still in the deciding stages on paint color. I also never painted a car in my life (other than models) so for me it was a learning expeience and also a chance to see what my car would look like in black and in white wich would be much too expensive with real paint. I also know that I needed somthing on my car to protect it from rust this winter. So spending about fifty bucks to see my car in two totaly different colors was totaly worth it to me and learning how to paint was another huge benefit. I am pleased with the way my car looks right now and I get alot of compliments and offers to paint other peoples cars so I would have to say I am proud of my rustolium paint job It is by no means showpaint but it will still shine better than half the cars in my town.

 

Are you serious? Besides the fact its gonna fade and peel in a few weeks, it looks like crap unless you want the satin look.

 

Ok, here is a solution that some of you guys may have overlooked, esp guys who want color other than primer gray or black; most of the paint companies now make epoxy primers that can be tinted whatever color you want. My 87 Trans Am ,which is going to be a two-tone of Sunset Orange Metallic and black once I get my booth built, is currently two shades of gray primer, but I got some Spies-Hecker primer in orange and black to do the final priming (the car has been block sanded several times already, but needs maybe one or two more times to get perfect). Its not cheap, but neither are a couple dozen cans of anything decent quality in a spray can. Plus, it will look presentable until I'm ready to paint, its doesn't absorb moisture, and if it gets a little stained it can be cleaned with a little comet (heck, thats what most Maccos do their initial scuffing with...Scotchbrite and Comet!). Once its painted, it will hide scratches better too.Plus, I wont have to go through the hassle stripping off spray can paint and starting over for the final paint job. The solvents in automotive paint will soften and lift anything that comes out of a spray can, so it all has to come off before you paint for real.
If the weather holds out I may get the primer sprayed this week, so I'll post pics then.

 

Yes Joe is right Spies has come out with a new toned primer that is supposed to hold up indefinately in weather. Did not mention earlier because I did not know if it was even available on the major market yet!

 

Obviously you all missed the point. I have nothing bad to say about paint, I happen to like nice looking shiny cars. Hell my cars shiny. What i was getting at is rather than leave your car in primer which will turn a sweaty hand black while cruizin, or leaving it 4 different colors theres a simple and cheap solution. Flaming me does nothing but sink you down to my "ignorant" level. But still i must beg the question which looks better a car in a rainbow of primers bondo guide coats and spot putty waiting for paint that you cant currently afford or a car thats all one color like this.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/invict...f2.jpg&.src=ph