Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

Like the title says how fast does it take paint to fully dry. i did alittle test piece last night. just a spare piece of metal, sanded it smooth, primered, painted(2 coats), cleared (2 coats). so i left it to dry over night and this mornaing at lunch time i looked at it and touched it and it left my finger print in it. so i left it till i got out of work, checked again after work and it got alittle better but not much. i brought the piece inside the house were its 64* so im hopeing it will dry soild to the touch.

any thoughts guys? i gotta paint my gf nose and fender gfx on his 91 bird and i dont want to wait for ever. i can get the garage up to about 85* but thats with the use of a little electric heat and karosen heater. heres 2 pics of the test pieces. this is just some paint i have in the garage its called PPG sunfire blue nice color. dont mind the little spots the metal had alittle rust on it and i didnt do much prep, just sand smooth, clean then prime.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

also i finished paintin around 9:30 last night and i dont think the garage was more the 58* at the most and i was using DRR 1160 i think it was reducer.

KEVIN G.

A few more specs please??
Base coat/ Clearcoat?
Enamel??
DRR is a "Reactive Reducer" for Basecoat, so if incompatible with what you were using for clear...
Clear coat crosslink, (the point where the clear molecules crosslink with the hardener molecules to make it a polymer), shuts down below a certain temp as well...
58 degrees isn't bad, but if it dipped below that during the night, it will certainly retrard the curing process.

JeffW

ya what he said

maybe missed activator in clear if needed.

my car dryed to the touch in a couple hours but that was at like 80 - 85 wet sand in 24 hours no problem.

so if its not what kevin said you should check you tech sheets for the proper mix.

when you heat your garage make sure all those things are off before you start spraying.

you paint is shiney looks like purple flakes or something in it what color is it?

jeff

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

Dude, you must have missed the clear activator, the dupont clear i use at work dries to the touch in about an hour or two, and i cut and buff out the next day...i donno, you did something wrong

GMTech

Each paint is different, so you'll have to read the tech sheets for your paint, but in general, they are safe to handle in a few hours.

kretos

you had to of missed it, either that or it was really really cold in that garage

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

im using the PPG DBU line. i used for the basecoat the sunfire blue color and the DRR1160, i know that reducer is supose to be for a warmer air temp, id have to check my book again. for clear coat i used DAU 82, DAU 2 and DT 870 for the reducer. is there anychance i used too much clear? maybe im not reading the mixing cups right also. most of the time im usein the 1:1 mark on the cup. ill take a pic tomarrow of what all i used, im all outof the dt 870 , only had a little bit to start with but ill try and get a pic soon.

is there any easy to read cups that say how much of what to put in say if ur mixing?

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

heres the stuff i used minus the DT 870 reducer.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

heres the little cup i used, up close, the 1:1 section is what i use alot mainly since i dont know how to read the cups exzactly. wish they came with instructions . anyway heres the pic.

GMTech

DBU gets mixed 1 : 1.5 Thats 1 part Basecoat and 1.5 parts reducer. Take your mixing cup and find the 1:1.5 column. Pour the DBU up to the first "1" line. Then pour the reducer to the NEXT "1" line.

Delglo gets mixed 1:.5:1 You'll need to find 1 : .5 : 1 on the mixing cup. Pour the clear DAU 82 to the first "1" line. Then your reducer to the next "1" line. Then the activator DAU 2 to the next "1" line. That will mix it correctly.

If you need more, instead of pouring to the "1" line, you can pour to the "2" or "3" or whatever. Just remember whatever you pour the first one to, you have to pour the rest to.

DRR 1160 is cool weather reducer, but is only compatible with the DBU. You'll need a DT reducer for the clear. I use DT885 for all of my painting.

And DAU clear needs to dry overnight.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

well there isnt a 1: .5 :1 spot on any of my cups, i guess u get what u pay for for $12. also when i mixed the clear id go to the 1 line then the next line. then i go half of the next line. i guess that might be hurtin me.

in my book for mixing the color it says a 1:1 mix. i think next time ill do the 1:1.5 mix maybe that will help me. ill try and pick up some reducer for colder weather. and ill try that dt 885. is that good for like all around stuff or what? since im workin out of my garage its differnt then a shop, just woundering.

i just wanna get this right so mixing and sprayin isnt a problem i got about 4 gallons of color that whole thing of clear, plenty of primer bt i think ill get some epoxy primer soon.

GMTech

Here are the tech sheets:

DBU Basecoat:
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-152.pdf

Delglo Clear:
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-130.pdf

Print these out and read them several times until you understand them. Each paint line is different, so its very important to know mix ratios, flash times, etc....

Hope this helps.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

I just read those and thats exzactly what my book says. i think the color one was revised though on the one u posted since that says a 1:1.5 and my book says 1:1 but everything else is the same.

JeffW

so you missed .5 of something?

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

yup, i guess that .5 was just enuff, always the small things are missed

KEVIN G.

Actually that 0.5 is an overreduction that was allowed for DBU.
I doubt that was your problem...
DT 885, is for hot weather...hence the 85. Or possibly for an overall paint job. PPG is pretty user friendly on their no.'s.
860 is low temp, 870 is a good all around mid temp... 860 is too fast, and not reccommended for a complete paintjob. ( the same applies for the DRR reducers for base. 1160 is fast, not great for a complete especially with metallics.) You can also slow down or speed up the curing time by selecting the corresponding hardener for the temperature range you will be spraying. I'd actually be more inclined to believe it got colder than you thought out there.
Delglo is also an early version of their basecoat...somewhat thinner than the high solids clears today, so use extra coats...
It was also not quite as durable and would probably accept a scratch or print longer than a newer version.
Shined like a BITCH though..

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

so if i need a hardener, which should i get? my book lists a ton of stuff. also i bet it probabaly did get colder then i thought the other night becuz when i went out to check the piece it wasnt as cool as it was, so it more then likly changed.

KEVIN G.

DAU hardeners are the only ones compatible with The DAU colors and clears, Looking back (It's been about 10 years since I used Delglo,) you may be stuck on DAU2 only...

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

so i just have to use what the book says and cant subsitute anything better in huh?

KEVIN G.

NO!
Never substitute... These products are formulated to work within the paramaters of each product within the line.

If you want to upgrade...upgrade your clear, then you upgrade the hardener, the reducer...
DBU is compatible with most of their clears.

GMTech

I use DCU 2042 clear. It has worked well for me, and it compatible with your DBU basecoat. You'll need a DCX Hardner and a DT reducer.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

well i checked the piece i sprayed and today its nice and dry to the touch and doent leave any finger prints embeded into it. so i guess it just that it was too cold for it to dry in the right time.

do u guys think i shuld get a reducer for the clear that works better in cold weather then what i have right now?

KEVIN G.

Your only issue for reducer in colder weather will be speed, ie; a slow reducer in cold weather will likley allow morre chances for runs and contaminants to affect the out come. (bugs landing in wet clear...dirt, bumping it and printing it...) It will still get as hard as it ever would in hot weather... just take a few hours longer to get there, how soon will you be painting??

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

well as soon as i can get a really good hand at paintin. the last time i painted i had the garage at 85* that was with a kerosen heater and eletric heater goin while i painted. right now im not sure since im considering more safety wise now. but all i gotta do is go and buy the paint and a can of DT reducer and a good epoxy primer. then alittle more prep work and im ready to spray.

GMTech

What kind of gun and what kind of compressor are you using? Most people underestimate the air required to spray a gun. It seems most HVLP guns require 10-13 CFM of air and most "household" compressors put out 5-7 CFM.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

its a Devilabliss gravity feed gun, id have to run outside to check which one exzactly. and my air compressor is a Craftsmen oil less, max cfm at 40 psi is 8.6

id love to get a bigger better one, saw one at homedepot i think it was a 2 stage compressor that puts out like 16 cfm or something at 40psi but its a 220v compressor so id probably be killed if i buy that and have it wired up in my parents garage

FirehawkSS

iTrader: (2)

I just got finished painting my 89 Formula the weekend of Halloween. You want to talk about an awesome paint job. I started painting in 60deg then by the time I got to the clear it was around 45deg. I was using the coldest reducers possible and it took 2 days to dry before i could touch it without putting my finger print in it.

Advantages, I got absolutely no orange peel whatsoever. Looks like a mirror with no buffing. Beautiful

Disadvantages, that clearcoat ran like a river. I went for four coats of clear. Yea, I got my work cut out for me in the cut and buff department. You can do it in cold temperatures but watch for running your clear.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

so i just gotta really worry about the clear running? is it becuz it more wattery then the color but yet they seam the same. i guess since the book says 10-15 mins between coats i should wait about 20-25 mins between coats if its colder? just to be on the safe side i guess.

and i noticed the same thing when i sprayed that piece of metal, theres not much orangepeel in it, like theres alittle but nothing alittle wet sandin and buffin cant take care of.

FirehawkSS

iTrader: (2)

Yea these gm guys know a lot more than i do. They will reply with some better information. But basically the reducer determines your drying time. In hotter temps you want the clear to dry slower, in colder you want the clear to dry faster. The reason the clear runs is that it isnt drying. So you may have placed it where you want it but as soon as another coat of clear goes on it weighs it down and starts to drag it down or run it. If you keep applying coats it will run nasty. I did wait 25 to 30 minutes between my coats of clear. But then again it was cold cold cold. My best paint jobs have turned out in 70 deg temps.

HotRod55

Pay for my plain ticket and a hotel for me to stay in and ill come up and paint it for ya you just have it masked off and wiped down and ill shoot it for ya! Heck I'll even bring my own paint gun (Devilbiss GTI Mellinium with a 1.3 fluid tip). Ill do all that for ya for a small fee ofcource! LOL J/K Just keep trying youll get it.

FirehawkSS

iTrader: (2)

Ive never had a problem spraying the color in colder climates. It has only been the clear. They may seem like the same consistency but the clear is thicker and heavier than the color. The color probably isnt even a mil thick, while the clear could be a couple of mils thick.

FirehawkSS

iTrader: (2)

He'll pay for the plane ticket but you gotta sleep in the garage with the car

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

lol thats funny. i guess its just goin to end up with a lot of trial and error

HotRod55

I could probably do that but dont tell my car! Cause Ill never hear the end of that when I get back home! LOL

GMTech

Hotter temperatures reduce drying time. All of the dry times in the tech sheets assumes 70° weather. There is also a 15° rule. For every 15° above 70, dry times get cut in half.

Since cold weather slows down drying times, you can use a cold weather (faster) reducer to speed it up.

If the clear is running, your laying it on to thick or you not waiting long enough between coats.