Fiberglass Repair Help
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From: Newport News, Va
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350 HO
Transmission: 700R4 + Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: Auburn Posi; Richmond 3:73 Gears
Fiberglass Repair Help
Is it possible to repair a Whole in Fiberglass Hoods? I have a Harwood Cowl Hood I removed from my car years ago that was drilled for hood pins I would like to remove the wholes. Also can an armature do this? The wholes are about silver dollar sized and are now perfectly round. Can anyone list the items I need to do this repair cause I am going to go out tomorrow and by the supplies.
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
3M Automix Two-part rigid/SMC repair... Will require a special gun and mixer tips.
A small chunk of SMC will be helpful as well... but not necessary.
check my plastics primer
here, for details on how to repair
good luck, let us know.
A small chunk of SMC will be helpful as well... but not necessary.
check my plastics primer
here, for details on how to repair
good luck, let us know.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Newport News, Va
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350 HO
Transmission: 700R4 + Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: Auburn Posi; Richmond 3:73 Gears
So this 3M Automix Two-part rigid/SMC will work on larger things? Cause sounds like you are repairing small tears this is a whole maybe 3" at its widest spot. So no fiberglass and resin will be needed? I read your post the part where you wrote to make the tear shaped like a V what about if it’s a round whole?
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
Yep, just tailor the repair method to your needs.
Use a small grinder to taper the edges of the holes, (do this on the inside and outside, without trying to make the hole larger.)drill all around all the holes with the pinning holes to add strength to the repair. For the first coat, you will need to loosely tape the back side of the hood to keep the material in place and just squirt it in the hole, spreading liberally with a spreader, remember to push it into the pinning holes. Let harden and pull the tape.
Grind both sides of your new repair to spread a new coat of material for a second coat. You will not need new pinning holes. Repeat until you get it to the level you need, (when you get close, start using a block and 80 grit to make sure it's straight.)
Finish the whole area with a final THIN coat and block with 120 finish with 240 and prime and block and prep for paint.
Use a small grinder to taper the edges of the holes, (do this on the inside and outside, without trying to make the hole larger.)drill all around all the holes with the pinning holes to add strength to the repair. For the first coat, you will need to loosely tape the back side of the hood to keep the material in place and just squirt it in the hole, spreading liberally with a spreader, remember to push it into the pinning holes. Let harden and pull the tape.
Grind both sides of your new repair to spread a new coat of material for a second coat. You will not need new pinning holes. Repeat until you get it to the level you need, (when you get close, start using a block and 80 grit to make sure it's straight.)
Finish the whole area with a final THIN coat and block with 120 finish with 240 and prime and block and prep for paint.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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From: Newport News, Va
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350 HO
Transmission: 700R4 + Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: Auburn Posi; Richmond 3:73 Gears
I wont be able to grind the back side the back side is inside the hood. I will take pictures.
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From: glenwood IL
Car: 85z28,
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
I would not use tape. Get some fiberglass backing. Y can't u use some fiberglass and resin? That 3m stuff works great but its not cheap. And if u don't have the gun that like 60 bucks.
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From: Newport News, Va
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350 HO
Transmission: 700R4 + Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: Auburn Posi; Richmond 3:73 Gears
Well I have never done a repair like this before. So I didn’t think fiberglass and resin would be for armatures. But I have been reading all the fiberglass repair things I can online also talking to body shops for tips.
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From: glenwood IL
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well if the hood is made out of fiberglass y would putting fiberglass back into be the way armatures do it. Thats how i would do it And I am a ASE bodyman. I'm not saying thats the only way it can be done U can to it KEVIN G's way or my way and I'm sure theres body guys out there that would do it another way. As long as it turns out. Strong and flat your good.
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
Yes there are many ways to correctly repair a vehicle and it's parts. My way is what we do to repair SMC every day. (as well as bumper covers), It is not the only way...but more than likely the most recent/user friendly way.
This is kind of on the edge of what is being taught by ICAR,(which I am certified, as well as ASE, GM STG, PPG silver...) Their original plastics course teaches us to plastic weld using this technique.
Next week we will be attending a class for ICAR, sponsored by 3M, which will address these very issues.
The tape is just to keep the repair material in the hole until it sets up, by no means was it meant for strength. As hood pins are fairly small, the structure of the hood should be sound.
Fiberglass cloth works great to make and form patches and would also work very well here.
Yes this is key.
This is kind of on the edge of what is being taught by ICAR,(which I am certified, as well as ASE, GM STG, PPG silver...) Their original plastics course teaches us to plastic weld using this technique.
Next week we will be attending a class for ICAR, sponsored by 3M, which will address these very issues.
I would not use tape. Get some fiberglass backing.
Fiberglass cloth works great to make and form patches and would also work very well here.
As long as it turns out. Strong and flat your good.
Last edited by KEVIN G.; Apr 2, 2005 at 12:22 PM.
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