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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 09:41 PM
  #1  
phoenix305's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Clearfield,Utah
Car: 1987 IROC, 1989 IROC
Engine: built 305, stock 305 tpi
Transmission: Corvette 700r4, t-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 posi, 3.08 posi
Paint prep

Okay i have a problem. I want to strip the paint off of my car maybe down to the metal. how would i go about doing this? would i just use a palm sander? and if so what grit's of sand paper. any help appriciated.
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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 10:31 PM
  #2  
JeffW's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
i used a d/a with 80 grit. palm sander may take longer not sure. i also seen a nice mikita buffer set up with a disk for grinding removing paint that was sweet. since it was big it mad fast work of it. with the d/a it took me quite a few days as it was but it came out nice.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #3  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
since this is on the topic, I was wondering if there was much difference between a standard air power dual action (orbital?) sander, 17SCFM, say 6" with glue on sanding disks (throw out disk when you change grit...)
and a 5" electric orbital one. hook and loop, with the ability to hook up your vacuum to it?
I understand it's more of a woodworking tool.... but does it really matter? I mean i'm using one now, and i'm moving up to coarser and coarser grits just to get it done... not enough power? i'm having to turn it sideways (angle it a bit) like a grinder (I know, not good) to get it to take off much material.... Should this take an intensly long time to do?
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 06:06 PM
  #4  
phoenix305's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 948
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From: Clearfield,Utah
Car: 1987 IROC, 1989 IROC
Engine: built 305, stock 305 tpi
Transmission: Corvette 700r4, t-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 posi, 3.08 posi
what is a d/a? I want to take most of the paint of and do the body work myself and then take it to someone to heve it primered and sprayed.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 06:23 PM
  #5  
KEVIN G.'s Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 692
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
Hutchins D.A.
One of the best your money can buy. Not good, however to strip...it runs too smooth.
You need a National Detroit style for that task.
NOW if you have multiple paint jobs on the car it will take longer, and you may want to go more aggressive...
You CAN get 36g in a 6 in d.a. style cut..but it's expensive.
much difference between a standard air power dual action (orbital?) sander,...and a 5" electric orbital one. hook and loop, with the ability to hook up your vacuum to it?
.)
Either way will work, it's whatever works best for you...
The thing to constantly remember, is to check the steel...You dont want to heat it up and warp it.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 06:38 PM
  #6  
Sonix's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
aces! Thanks for the info. I thought i'd have to push on it pretty hard to get it to cut, and doing that stalls out the little electric motor, which I figured is why the air one takes 11+ CFM...
oh well, i'm using 50grit now I think, and this is to take 23yr old paint down to bare metal.... I guess I should be patient? I figured i'd use the angle grinder and 100grit flap disks? I think i'll be using a skim coat of bondo anyway.
if I could prod one more tip out of you, do most sanders that say avg air use = 6CFM, actually use that? or is that like using it for 5 seconds and inspecting for 20? I wanted to use a 110V air compressor (in my garage) for paint prep.


oh, phoenix, d/a = dual action (spins and orbits) aka orbital sander usually.
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