Knight350

Hi Guys...

I have a big problem... the hatch pull down motor won't pull the hatch down!
It is latching ok when I close the hatch, but it won't go down so now the trunk is open and it's probably going to rain tomorrow!

This worked just yesterday!

I have search on here like crazy... I found that red/white wire does have power, the LID fuse is ok...
But maybe something to do with a relay? the one near the motor? Or what about the on the passenger side by the ECM?
Which one is for the pull down motor?

Is there any way to get this thing down manually?

Thanks Guys, I hope I can figure this out quick... I am getting new rims on tues or wed and I cant drive there with the car like that!

Thanks and have fun!
Fredel

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

If the power is good to the red/white stripe wire and ground is still connected, then I'd suspect either the striker-sensing switch or the reversing switch. Both can cause the symptoms you describe. The relay probablyy isn't the culprit, but it is just below the hatch pull-down unit. The striker-sensing switch is a small switch just in front of the latch. On the right side is a spring-loaded nylon piece. On the left is a small black lever which is the switch in question. Follow the instructions in the Tech Article I wrote on repairing them. For a quick fix, remove the reversing switch and put +/- 12v to the two terminals on the motor to power it down.

Lon

Knight350

Thanks Lon,

I was hoping you would respond... I've read many other of your great post.

I just went outside but I'm not sure which one is the reversing switch...?

And where are the 2 terminal to apply the 12v to?

Which part of your tech article shows how to repair that striker switch?


Sorry for all the stupid questions... but I really need to just get it closed for now.

THANKS very very much!

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I didn't have more time to elaborate earlier. I'm attaching a picture of both switches. The reversing switch attaches to the clear motor housing with a Phillips-head screw.



The striker-sensing switch is attached to the latch area with a 7mm hex-head screw. This is a picture of the 1988-91 switch. The only difference between it and the 1986-87 is the plug on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white (+12v) wire. This one has a small black plug. The early switch has a large white plastic plug.



Lon

Orinackra

I had the same problem...and I tried everything you did, but it kicked back in when I pulled the relay out and plugged it back in.
I'm not sure what the real problem was on mine...I actually havent driven the car to open the hatch since then..

Knight350

Hey Lon, that's totally ok my friend, I'm sure you are very busy... you have given me a place to start.
So I should physically remove the reversing switch and there will be 2 terminals under that?
And should/can I remove the striker switch without taking it all apart? Then can I fix it or do I have to replace it?


So you have the same thing, huh mitch?
I tried to unplug the relay down by the motor but I wasn't as lucky! heh heh... I wish.
I'll give it a try and let you guys know.

thanks again Lon and Mitch.
Fredel

Knight350

RATS!!! Nothing worked....
The hatch is still stuck open and it's going to RAIN all night!
That is really bad...

I tried to jump the blue wire with a 12v source from the amplier back there and it did nothing... the motor doesn't make any noise.
But the hatch will release when the button is pushed or the key is used.

It just won't pull down... and like I said there has never been a problem before...

do I have to take apart the whole thing?
What do I do now?

Knight350

Sorry, I forgot to say this is on a 1991 GTA...

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Take a look at the hatch pull-down unit on the side where the silver cylinder of the motor it is located. You'll see where the black plastic of the reversing switch snaps onto the white plastic portion of the motor. Under that black part is the two terminals of the motor. There are two small holes that you can use to access these terminals without having to take the unit apart. Use test leads with alligator clips on each end. Connect one end of them to a the + & - of a 12v source. I use a batery charger set to 10 amp mode. Put a small nail or brad in the other end of the alligator clip of the test leads. Now you'll be able to poke through these small holes and supply +/- 12v to the hidden terminals and power the unit down. Power it down in small increments and test latching it and releasing the latch until you have it lowered enough so you can latch it and compress the hatch seal. Consider this as a temporary solution only. If you continue opening and slamming the hatch you'll soon break the clear plastic part (called the motor housing) that the motor slips into. When the weather clears up rebuild it using my tech article. As I mentioned before it is mre than likely one of the two switches that has gone bad.

Lon

Dizturbed One

Sometimes the damn things just get stuck down

If the motor seems to work fine but it's not pulling down I'm willing to bet that it is ALREADY down, and it got half *** jammed in there. Happens on mine from time to time.

I simply put some wieght on it and let the motor spin for a minute or so, and usually it will grab it and pull the damn thing down.

A couple times I've had to do that, then pop it up and help it up with a screwdriver while someone is tapping the switch in the car.

Just play with it like that and you might get it.

Sorry I couldn't help you more, I don't really know crap about it, just hoping it might be along the same lines.

Knight350

Sounds good Lon, I will try in out in a few minutes... I escaped the rain last night, so I'm lucky there.
I will try it out and post back.

Disturbed One, yes it is stuck in the up position because it is latching no problem but the pull down motor is just not turning on to pull the hatch in and lock.
But thanks for the post, everything helps!

Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes!

mixedbreed

lol, that happened to me, I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't pull so I tied the hatch down for a couple days, then I was messing around and I hit the trunk release button and I heard it go up! Man I felt like a fool, It happened because my brother tried to slam the trunk like you do a normal car instead of softly holding the hatch down, caused the hatch to bounce up (and not latch)

Knight350

Lon, you did it my friend!!!
That little tricked worked and it the hatch is now closed!!
THANK YOU!

I even got a nice little shock and spark when the truck latched and the reverse switch was tripped! heh heh!

SO, I tried to pop the truck again and it pop open as usual but still when I re-latch the lid it still does not go down (unless I apply the power again from inside).... so does that mean it's the striker switch I have to replace? Can that be done with taking apart the whole unit?

THANKS AGAIN LON, you definitely know your stuff.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can replace the striker-sensing switch without having to disassemble the hatch pull-down unit. No it doesn't guarantee that the switch is the problem. As I wrote previously if could also be the reversing switch. If the unit is in the up position you can replace that switch without disassy.

Lon

Vaneat-91RS

The trunk pull down switch is the problem about 95% of the time. We replace several a week at our Caddy dealership which uses the same basic mechanism.

Derek The Great

This is a little off topic, and i dont mean to intrude on Knight350's post, but i also do not want to start a new post. My question is what is the correct way to shut the hatch on firebirds? I know you shouldnt slam it in any way, but what i usually do is hold the hatch about 4 inches from closed and let go - is that bad?
thanks, Derek

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Just gently rest it onto the latch, then give it a slight press down. You'll hear the click of it latching and the pull-down will power it down.

Lon

Knight350

Hey Derek, no problem at all, feel free to use this post... Lon has helped me out a lot already.

And thanks Vaneat for telling that... I am going to try the old switch that I have on a older unit... if it doesn't work, I will just order one from Lon.
Thanks Guys..
Fredel

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Spray the striker-sensing switch with contact cleaner, available from Radio Shack. This may clean off some dirt and grease and get it to work again. If so you've bought some some time.

Lon

Derek The Great

Thanks for the advice Ionsal. The reason i let it drop from about 4 inches was because if i closed it too gently the latch wouldnt catch but the motor would pull the latch down. I think some of that stuff has been replaced actually. Knowlege gained thanks

rockyram

I have had the same problem with my wife's '89 Camaro for about 5 months.We just bought a house so the hatch problem got put on the back burner for a while,plus the weather has'nt been an issue.It was stuck in the up position,would latch but not go down to seal.So after reading and reading more I finally got around to dealing with it.After learning the hard way,at least on this year, the 2 holes to power the motor with are on the side of the reversing switch.There is no need to remove it.(Which I did initially,what a pain in the ***).I flicked the switch to the down position and applied remote 12V power and the motor slowly went down.What relief!But I went down too far and the hatch would'nt latch.What I found was the reversing switch was now flicked in the UP position.When I quickly connected the stock wiring clip back to the reversing switch it would go up.So the motor works but how do you differentiate whether it is the strike sensor switch or the reversing switch?