So a nearly perfect RA1 allignment is possible..
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From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
So a nearly perfect RA1 allignment is possible..
So the body shop did a pretty good job of alligning the hood. I wasn't extremely happy about it, but it was as good as most that I've seen.
In the wreck I had sheared the wires going into one of the headlight motors and still had to fix that. Once those were resoldered, it turns out the motor will pull the headlight down a lot futher then you would think. So that light wasn't lining up anymore. Got that alligned and the light hit the hood going up.. Argh.. Adjusted the hood and the the fenders were off. After 4 hours I got it to a point equal to the body shop (but with a working headlight).
Taking what I learned from that I spent anothe 4 hours on it today and got it 99% perfect. Few minor things that I won't say, only because I'm the only one that will notice.
Here's a front shot:
In the wreck I had sheared the wires going into one of the headlight motors and still had to fix that. Once those were resoldered, it turns out the motor will pull the headlight down a lot futher then you would think. So that light wasn't lining up anymore. Got that alligned and the light hit the hood going up.. Argh.. Adjusted the hood and the the fenders were off. After 4 hours I got it to a point equal to the body shop (but with a working headlight).
Taking what I learned from that I spent anothe 4 hours on it today and got it 99% perfect. Few minor things that I won't say, only because I'm the only one that will notice.
Here's a front shot:
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From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
As a result, I now know more about alligning a hood then I ever wanted to. So if anyone out there needs any tips or tricks, post a pic of the problem and I'll try to help. There's plenty of adjustment bolts, plenty of adjustments that aren't standard adjustments, and several places that were turned into adjustments.
All of my non-standard adjustments are NOT visible. So I don't have a bunch of washers all around.
Here's a side view of the lines:
All of my non-standard adjustments are NOT visible. So I don't have a bunch of washers all around.
Here's a side view of the lines:
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From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Don't mind the dust and fingerprints, you don't even want to know how many times I opened and closed the hood... I did make this plate to mount the stock hood spring on, so at least it popped up easily..
Good job its not too hard just takes time a miss aligned car sticks out like a sore thumb to me and looks terrible and unfinished. You seem to be patient and do quality work I seen your interior work most people get frustrated and start tearing **** up.
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
That looks pretty good.
I need to do something like you did with the spring so I can pop my hood myself.
I need to do something like you did with the spring so I can pop my hood myself.
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From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
They do, kind of.. The stock hood has tabs stamped into the steel. That's kind of hard to do in fiberglass. They do give you a bolt hole centered over the spring area though.
I took some 1/16" plate, drew the spring circle on it, and then drew (4) 1/2" tabs around it. Cut it all out with a dremel and smoothed it with sand paper. Drill a hole in the middle and fold the tabs up. Place the spring in the middle and then wrap the tabs around it.
Hardest part is getting the bolt through the hole and attached to the hood!
Kevin D.
I took some 1/16" plate, drew the spring circle on it, and then drew (4) 1/2" tabs around it. Cut it all out with a dremel and smoothed it with sand paper. Drill a hole in the middle and fold the tabs up. Place the spring in the middle and then wrap the tabs around it.
Hardest part is getting the bolt through the hole and attached to the hood!
Kevin D.
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Peg Leg
Since you offered
, the hood is level with the headlights, but not the front nose. What would you suggest. Supreme Member
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From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
shr00m,
Is your hood functional? What did it set you back if I can ask. Did someone local have it available or was it mail order?
I really like the way it turned out for you. Rock on!
Is your hood functional? What did it set you back if I can ask. Did someone local have it available or was it mail order?
I really like the way it turned out for you. Rock on!
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From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Cadillac,
Not functional.. yet.. Ordered it through ASCD at the top, came to about $500 after the TGO discount and shipping.
Soulbounder,
It's a 1% issue I have with the area around the headlights. You have to be right in front of it and look really hard to see it.
CoolTC,
I would start at the two bumpstops right inside the headlights. Lower them all the way and see if the hood drops any more. If it doesn't you will probably want to lower the latch. Two bigger bolts right at the latch.
If you can't lower it any more or you need to go lower, lossen the four bolts that connect the latch panel to the radiator support brace. Also lossen the lowest bolt on the triangular brace underneath right in front of the radiator. This will let you push the entire rear of the panel where the latch attaches down.
If the L-shaped fender bumps don't keep the hood lined up with the fenders, you can use the outer screw type bumpstops to keep the edges up.
It looks like you're pretty close, so just adjusting the latch like above should get you. If not, you'll have to raise the nose in the front, let me know.
Kevin D.
Not functional.. yet.. Ordered it through ASCD at the top, came to about $500 after the TGO discount and shipping.
Soulbounder,
It's a 1% issue I have with the area around the headlights. You have to be right in front of it and look really hard to see it.
CoolTC,
I would start at the two bumpstops right inside the headlights. Lower them all the way and see if the hood drops any more. If it doesn't you will probably want to lower the latch. Two bigger bolts right at the latch.
If you can't lower it any more or you need to go lower, lossen the four bolts that connect the latch panel to the radiator support brace. Also lossen the lowest bolt on the triangular brace underneath right in front of the radiator. This will let you push the entire rear of the panel where the latch attaches down.
If the L-shaped fender bumps don't keep the hood lined up with the fenders, you can use the outer screw type bumpstops to keep the edges up.
It looks like you're pretty close, so just adjusting the latch like above should get you. If not, you'll have to raise the nose in the front, let me know.
Kevin D.
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From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
That's pretty slick.
I'll be cutting it out to make it functional and I'm adding some 'heat extracters' to the flat area by the windshield. Maybe I'll just pull the hood and smooth it all out and reshoot it.
Kevin D.
I'll be cutting it out to make it functional and I'm adding some 'heat extracters' to the flat area by the windshield. Maybe I'll just pull the hood and smooth it all out and reshoot it.
Kevin D.
I think it looks fine with the seams those are expected when people go around removing seams stuff just doesnt start to look right. Thats just me I kinda like seams it goes along with door gaps and such you have to have them.
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