well dropped the car off about a week ago to get air ride installed..should be back by the end of the month..shippin is takin awhile so its holdin us back from gettin more of it done
heres all the parts im gettin
175 pressure switch
8 3/8 valves
3/8" airline
2 chrome 5 gallon tanks
380C compressor
2b6 bags in the rear
air ride technologies front bags
2 dual needle gauges
the air tanks are going in the back seat

and im notchin off the bump stops about an inch..so my sides should be about 2 inches off the ground when its done
pics will be up soon

 

For us thats looking to do this how much(ball park) are you looking at paying when its all done.

 

mine was around 2300 cdn but it all depends what you want it to do.
like how fast you want it to go up and down,how much air supply you want,how quick you want your tanks to fill..all depends on that.
and i got a great deal for install and the kit cause my friend is doing it and he did alot of installs already so im gettin deals

 

i know nothing about air bags, but how does air ride technologies [CoolRide] setup ARF6700 (front) and ARR22400 (rear) work? What effect does it have on handling? On traction/wheel hop? Do you have to have tanks in the car or can you use an air compressor (at least at first, then put tanks in as the money for it comes, so on and so forth)

I want to lower my car.. but i live in WI (sh|tty roads in some places) and i want to have it as low as i can while still be drivable... and i figure an air bag setup would be nicer than getting sportlines and be screwed cause its too low... i would like to adjust it.

 

well as long as everything is set up right.air ride is supose to handle amazing..air ride tech said if you add some kinda bar they sell you can set your car up perfect for whatever reason you want it to perform..
i am not using the rear sleeve bags from air ride tech..im using firestone 2b6 bags with custom cups for it
and what do you mean can you have just a compressor and no tank?...if you want air ride you will need the tanks for sure first..i imagin you could hook up the tanks only but fillin it would be a hassel..your best bet would slowly peice it all together then when you get it all..then install everything

 

ah, mmk.. didnt know if the bags leaked a little bit or if they held in the air and you just adjusted them by letting air out or adding air (kinda like air shocks...)... Would be kindof a pain.. buying it piece by piece will prolly be ideal..

 

hehe, guess i should do more reading on the website.. i didnt look at the FAQs (and the coolride page said absolutely nothing)
"Is one tank enough? Do I have to run a tank? Do I really have to run a compressor?
A compressor and tank is highly recommended on a full air ride system. Theoretically, you can just inflate the airsprings to a specific pressure and go down the road. But without the compressor system, you give up the ability to fine tune the system for the best ride quality. You may also lose the ability to compensate for extra passengers, luggage or other loads. A 2 gallon tank is usually enough for most cars to achieve ride height one time before the compressor kicks on. A larger tank or multiple tanks will speed up the rise time. Some of the truck guys even prefer multiple compressors."

so, basicaly, i could just run the bags and get it set where i like it... if i dont put loads in the car and basically only have me in the car (which is how it always is anyway) and i could add the tank and compressor (prolly the cheapest ones... lol, im not looking to raise it/lower it fast all the time.. just want a different option than regular springs/shocks)... I think i found how i am going to do this

 

one old viair 450c can barely keep up with a single 5 gallon tank, not saying your setup has a few things wrong but definately don't be surprised if you'll need more.

also while this is obvious be sure your installer heavily insulates the mounting points on your tank and compressor, having them in the rear well is bad enough but the rear seat you'll loose hearing fast no matter how loud your stereo or engine may be. understand also that having that type of distance to your valves your going to slow your setup down quite a bit. while it's ideal to have your valves located virtually as close as possible for the fastest response it's equally important to have them as close as possible to your tank and compressor.

good luck with it.

 

i am consistently changing my air pressure as i drive the car, what's another 200 or so for the compressor and tank so that you won't need to stop at a gas station for more air. one 5 gallon tank will raise the car up fully 2-3 times max before it needs to be refilled. either way you'll want the tank and compressor as different weather patterns, road conditions and weight effect how things work so it will be alot less work for yourself in the end. it's just noted you don't have to have these items to get your car up and running on air for those that are building with a budget, good to know so you can buy a little at a time.

 

thanks kandied..dont worry the guy whos doing it is really smart at this kinda stuff..like his truck is nuts..s10 bodydropped on 20s and 22s lays right out,1inch air line..407 engine custom frame work..all himself done..ill post pics later its crazy ****
well rabbit you could just run bags no compressor or tank..and just fill the bags and cap them off..you will need a trainer valves and a tire air tank..

 

where is he mounting the valves, what type of valves are they?

rule of thumb is that it's better to have more compressor then tanks, just suggestions of course as you'll find out soon enough after playing for awhile.

 

guess im justing looking at it in the poor college student's point of view... hehe

I'll prolly end up getting it all (kits+tank+cheap compressor) then installing it all.. Since i've already started to hijack this thread (sorry slammed), i may as well ask the questions now... Where would the best place for the compressor and tank? And what do they do for the front? just fabricate shock mounting points and delete the struts? Also, can i do my own wiring for the controls? im not fond of what they have and would like to make it seem at least close to stock (e.g. http://www.jimmy-jams.com/)

 

depends on the setup, bags replace springs. struts/shocks remain unless you want something like i have which uses air strut in the front for a coilover conversion setup but then your not on a broke school kid fund.

mounting can go anywhere, as stated the idea is to have the valves as close to the bags and the lines from them as close to the compressor/tank as possible. the longer the hoses the longer it takes for air to travel. also, an important thing to remember while having a 4 way setup helps to control air transfer so you don't have a boat like ride, the longer your hoses are to your valves the more play you have in rebound, so in effect if you want total control basically mount things as close as possible and your good.

 

ouch..... just saw the price on the vavles.. if i wanted to go with airbags, i would need

ARF6700 - front airbag kit - $350
ARR22400 - rear airbag kit - $300
F9242 - 5 gallon mult. port tank - $75
ARC1550 - cheapest compressor - $140
ARV7400 - only 4-way valve i can find - $750
Plus controls/braided lines/fittings/etc.... - at least $200

So im looking at a LOT more than what i originally thought.. which is always how it works out.. i guess i didnt realize the valves cost so much... looks like i will prolly be going with new springs/shocks/struts. I would love to have an air ride, but i guess, for my use, i couldnt justify the difference in price.

Air Ride - At least $1800 in parts, not to mention fabrication
Conventional Ride -
Eibach Sportlines - $230
Koni shocks and struts - $586
Total - $816

It wouldnt really be worth it, for what i would do with it, for me to spend the extra grand to have an air ride.

 

there are cheaper setups and 750 is probably for the big red valves as valves are expensive for the larger size but you don't have to go that large. stick to a 1/4" valve style like the ridepro for example. search websites like chassis tech and air lift for comparison as well. there are alot of companies out there making products. air ride does make the easiest to install and some of the best durability units but they aren't the end all/be all of air ride. you get what you pay for but if your on a budget it doesn't have to break the wallet.

no reason you can't put air ride on your car for around $1,000 give or take depending on your options and your knowledge of installation it could be less. without using air rides kit i could reproduce something similar to mine not using the $1,500 air struts and have a good riding/working setup for around $800 with everything.

just do more research. is it worth it? depends, the adjustment is great so if you want a lower look then the prokit with adjustment and great ride definately. if a prokit will work for you then stick to that and just learn your car real well.

 

good thing im not planning on touching my suspension (besides lca relocation brackets and maybe new adjustable lca's) until winter/spring... gives me a LOT of lookup time... lol

 

its ok man its always good to help out a fellow car man..i dont got picks anyways yet so highjackin is A.O.K
try http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/

they seem to be decent prices...and kandieds right anything more then 3/8 for our car isnt needed really..like i considered 1/2 but you dont need it really..thats pretty fast..and you need alot of air supple or use nitrogen

heres one pic so far of my rear setup..well the notch anyways

 

hey jeff what size air line and valves are you using?

 

Wow never thought I'd see a 3rd gen notched. Did you measure under the car to make sure there is clearance by the gas tank? I'd imagine the differential housing might make contact if the car was dropped all the way with that notch.

Rabbit there are other methods of adjustable ride height that are cheaper (just not as easy as pushing buttons while driving). Try a search for Weight Jacks.

 

the largest air ride sells... 3/8.

i stepped down to 3" exhaust and i still can't set the rockers on the ground, close but not close enough. small price to pay but i can't go any lower and still have long tubes on the car.

good luck.

 

Hey I notched my back too but it was to get my 11" rims to fit back there. I want to swap over to air ride for sure in the future. Looks bad ***


Oh as for the gas tank thing, check out my fuel cell, it is in the gas tank location, but slightly different, haha. check out my site, my way give u tons of clearance.

 

fuel cell eh..hmm go alil lower still lol...the only thing that is stoppin the back from almost laying out is my offset comes close to rubbin and my diff comes close to hittin but it could be notched abit..im just gonna see how it looks and maybe during winter if i want alil lower ill find ways like tubular a arms,drop spindals and stuff

you got any sneak peak pics of your ride high now jeff?

 

3/8 is fast enough for our cars..unless you to almost hop its enough i think

 

Hey slammed, what shocks/struts are you using with the Air Ride setup? Also, whereabouts are you located in Ontario? The reason being, I'm seriously considering air ride, and I would love the chance to have a ride in a similarly equipped car first to see if I like it. (actually, Kandied, I'm close to you too...I'd love to have a look at your setup when it's finished). I like the looks of the Cool Ride kit (with the heavier 3/8 line, 4-way valving and perhaps a 10 gallon tank) but I'd still like to get some above average handling out of it and don't want anything 'floaty.'

 

at the moment i just had midas rear shocks..but my installer said i should go a 4" shorter shock so i dont by any chance stretch my bag at all and pop it.

im in between toronto and ottawa area

 

too bad you wont be done for darknights...i wanna see who is lower :P

i think i have you beat, not by much, but still

where is he mountin the valves? i noticed jeff asked the same thing..mine are right under the air tank...close to where they need to be to get maximum quickness

air is the way to go specially for a show vehicle..

youll like it ian..i know i do

iroc2nv

 

here is a pic of the back... almost all laid out! ON 20S!!!

 

of sorry about that my valves will be right under my tanks also..
my tire tucks about the same as your gerry but im on 18s

 

What is needed for the most simple air ride?

i just want the adjustability. And if I go to a show to be able to have the car drop down in less than like 30 seconds.

i really don't care about speed of hight adjustment.

If anyone wants to be awsome they could posst up a quick list of parts needed, hehe.

 

well you could always just buy the bags,cups and air line..then cap it off with a tire valve setup..so basically if you want to air it up.bring alot alil air tank or something to pump it up..and if you want to let the air out just push the lil pin in and let all the air out
they can be called a trainer valve...its like air shocks but you use the bags instead

 

awsome thanks a ton. I will look into this. I can allways get the compressor and such later and hook it up correct?

 

correct..but then you will need more stuff like compressor,tank,switches and gauges

im not sure how you would go about finding the exact way to do it

basically just call a local air ride shop and tell them you want to eventually have it full adjustable..but in the mean time you wouldnt mind just the bags and be able to raise and lower just with an air pig and a release valve

 

20's.. rubber band tires.. laying frame in a camaro.. this is just

 

LOL ^^^^ that is the funniest smiley I have ever seen.

I can see how some people think that air ride is just "laying frame" but it really isn't at all. I just want the full adjustment from "lowered" to "raised" when I am on ****ty streets and don't want to scrape my long tubes.

Plus dropping it a bit more looks great at a show.

No 20's or laying frame involved.

haha. that pic is so good.

 

well thats good then.. i did see in a mag, that they put the air ride in a 96 SS and it handled pretty damn well..

i would do it for that.. but my only fear is.. what if a bag breaks or pops while driving? that would SUUUUUUCK

 

true, but these things get the **** beat out of them, all the time. And I have never herd of a bag break.

If this has ahppened to anyone let us hear about it. I might make a new thread cuz that problm does sound interesting.

For casual street and very occational strip use, I think it is a sweet way to go

 

two words... semi truck

anything can break if you abuse it.

 

Kandied is right, if u use something right it won't break, or at least the chances of it failing are negligable.


I know this is rediculouse but what the hell...

Anybody wanna see if air ride can set up a GP on the 4 bags needed? I know this is not gonna go anywhere, but still doesn't cost anything to ask.

 

they won't do it, they don't have to. check chassis tech and air lift. they might.

 

hey kandied do you have SFC on your ride? if so, does it hit when you drop your car?

 

exhaust is really the only thing one must worry about..

since were on the subject, where are the pictures?

 

which pics?

 

bags are in..but nother else is hooked up..still having problems with the parts ordered..should be done soon tho

sits about 2" lower then before..but even at that height it rolls..oil pan is 1" off the ground tho so i wont be rolling at this height EVER lol

 

WOOT.,. i think im still just a tad lower dude..its gonna be close..

looking good though

iroc2nv

 

dear *** thats low....cant stop drooling

 

Hehe. I am not even a lowered car lover, but wow that looks great. I am not a fan of the wheels too too much, but like I said that looks awsome. Nice paint too. Keep up the good work. Once it is all hooked up, can we get and "all up" and an "all down" pics. To see the range of movment you have?

 

ya sure that wont be a problem..ill even do a video for you guys if someone will host it

 

http://www.putfile.com/

www.gigashare.com

www.yousendit.com

 

sweet thanks man

 

How much does everything weigh? Seems like it'd kill your times on the track.