power window motor
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Provo, Utah
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 305 TPI manual and
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5 / 700-R4
power window motor
My passenger side window does not work. Whenever I press the button it moves a little, less than an inch and then it stops. So the motor is doing something but not enough to open or close the window completely. I haven't teared the door open yet but I am guessing its either the motor or something inside that causes the window to get stuck. In the worst case scenario I am looking to buying another motor.I have combed wrecking yards looking for junked camaros but haven't found one with power windows. Could somebody tell me of a good place to buy a new motor without having to go to the dealer and pay hundreds of dollars?. Also, any suggestions as to the cabling of the system or known issues with these power windows so that I can troubleshoot the problem myself?. Thanks.
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,341
Likes: 151
From: Cincinnati,Ohio
Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
that's the same thing that mine were doing.i paid $48 for two motors that with shipping off of E-Bay.from autozone they want alittlr more than $50 per motor.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Do a search, this is very common, and is usually just the power window brushes, much easier to replace, or, if you're really lucky, the switches.
Either way, a search will give you all you need to know, and save my poor fingers.
Either way, a search will give you all you need to know, and save my poor fingers.
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,341
Likes: 151
From: Cincinnati,Ohio
Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
here check this thread out and you can deside for your self if you want to go that route.i did last week and it took me about 2 hours to do both sides.i didn't use the tiny 6-32 screws that cam in the kit i use a some 10-32 screws and some nylon locking nuts.i drilled the holes in the door panel out with a 3/16 drill bit so i could pass the screws through the door panel into the window motor.that saved me some time,i didn't have to blindly try and get the screws into the motor.
click riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight here!
click riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight here!
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Yep, I did that. It sure beats fighting the thing out normally. It's pretty easy to find where to drill, just look in the big gaping hole to find where the rivets are, then drill through the sheet metal....
I did that on the drivers side, then figured I didn't need to do it, and just used a stubby flatblade screwdriver to bend the tangs and pull off the cap. Replaced the "carbon" brushes (which are copper...?) and was good to go.
I did however find some carbon brushes from an alternator/starter shop that would work, but ended up using the copper brushes from the back window motors of station wagons at the wreckers (super common, free, and always in good shape).
Make sure to grease the guides, I used chassis grease.
I did that on the drivers side, then figured I didn't need to do it, and just used a stubby flatblade screwdriver to bend the tangs and pull off the cap. Replaced the "carbon" brushes (which are copper...?) and was good to go.
I did however find some carbon brushes from an alternator/starter shop that would work, but ended up using the copper brushes from the back window motors of station wagons at the wreckers (super common, free, and always in good shape).
Make sure to grease the guides, I used chassis grease.
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