Rust Bullet
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Rust Bullet
Hey guys. I was researching this product on here and it seems no one has tried it. My car has quite a bit of rust on the undercarriage/engine bay. Sooo, I figured what the hell, I'll be a guinea pig. I ordered enough of it get my car done and will be trying it out. I opened this thread to keep you updated on my progress with it and how it works. Application is supposed to be simple, as in zero prep. I'm just going to make sure the area is clean of oil/dry and try it out. Now I just gotta wait to get it... And yes, I"ll have pics!
Paul
Paul
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Underhood, I've got surface rust in places, nothing bad, just going to cover it up nicely. Corners of the floorpan have decent rot with pinholes that will be getting fixed. I think it will work out nicely.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by Johnny Blaze
POR 15 is the only thing that really works at stoping rust.
POR 15 is the only thing that really works at stoping rust.
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From: Charlestown, IN
Car: 1971 Camaro
Engine: 427
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Wow, didn't mean to **** in someones cereal.
I have used those products as well as many others over the years, and I have had the best results with POR 15.
That is my personal opinion from 15 years of working on rusty old cars. If others have different opinions, that is fine, I respect that, aparently some people do not.
I guess I am ignorant for speaking from my own experence.
I have used those products as well as many others over the years, and I have had the best results with POR 15.
That is my personal opinion from 15 years of working on rusty old cars. If others have different opinions, that is fine, I respect that, aparently some people do not.
I guess I am ignorant for speaking from my own experence.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
Thanks for being a guinea pig, Paul. Look forward to seeing your "review"
I've just used Hammerite Anti-rust primer and Smoothrite black on my car. At least it covers the rust until a respray is sorted out.
Mark.
I've just used Hammerite Anti-rust primer and Smoothrite black on my car. At least it covers the rust until a respray is sorted out.
Mark.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 285
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by Johnny Blaze
Wow, didn't mean to **** in someones cereal.
I have used those products as well as many others over the years, and I have had the best results with POR 15.
That is my personal opinion from 15 years of working on rusty old cars. If others have different opinions, that is fine, I respect that, aparently some people do not.
I guess I am ignorant for speaking from my own experence.
Wow, didn't mean to **** in someones cereal.
I have used those products as well as many others over the years, and I have had the best results with POR 15.
That is my personal opinion from 15 years of working on rusty old cars. If others have different opinions, that is fine, I respect that, aparently some people do not.
I guess I am ignorant for speaking from my own experence.
Paul,
What are your plans for surface prep before applying that stuff? Reason I ask is that I am in the process of doing the same thing with my camaro, but it just doesn't feel right painting over obvious rust spots. On top of that there is undercoating in numerous places and I just spent 2 weeks scrapping it all off.
what makes me suspicious is that a lot of products claim that they can be applied on top of rust, but then somewhere on the bottom in 4pt. font, they usually say "for best results surface should be sandblasted" or something similar to that.
I looked around last night and there are few things which I expect to present some challenge:
1) around rear wheelwells there is way too many corners/nooks/crannys and it is kinda hard to get in there to really do some decent scrapping and prepping.
2) inside of the frame definitely is not new anymore and I have no idea what I can do to protect it. Everything still looks solid, but whatever coating was inside is starting to peel and there is some surface rust.
I am curious how you are going to deal with that stuff.
What are your plans for surface prep before applying that stuff? Reason I ask is that I am in the process of doing the same thing with my camaro, but it just doesn't feel right painting over obvious rust spots. On top of that there is undercoating in numerous places and I just spent 2 weeks scrapping it all off.
what makes me suspicious is that a lot of products claim that they can be applied on top of rust, but then somewhere on the bottom in 4pt. font, they usually say "for best results surface should be sandblasted" or something similar to that.
I looked around last night and there are few things which I expect to present some challenge:
1) around rear wheelwells there is way too many corners/nooks/crannys and it is kinda hard to get in there to really do some decent scrapping and prepping.
2) inside of the frame definitely is not new anymore and I have no idea what I can do to protect it. Everything still looks solid, but whatever coating was inside is starting to peel and there is some surface rust.
I am curious how you are going to deal with that stuff.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 285
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Very good questions and the exact problems I had with POR15. What I'm doing is grinding off the paint/surface flakes where I can, get into the corners as best you can with a wire brush or a little wire grinder. Thats what I liked about this stuff, it's supposed to work even without great prep. So I figured I'll clean up as best I can and where I can't get to, hopefully it will do its job. Theres only so much you can do. And as far as inside the frame, I've though about that as well. Theres no real way to get inside of it so I can't be of much help. Are your frame rails actually rusting? My frame is still 100% metal, no rust.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 285
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Received it in the mail earlier this week. I'm working on sandblasting the engine bay and coating it in it. I'm going to work in sections and do small areas at a time so surface prep isn't a problem. I'll get some pics of how it goes.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
bumping old thread, I'm considering buying rust bullet and was wondering how your experience went with it. and how it's held up over time.
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