Not f-body but still Chevy

I might be picking up a late 30's to 40's Chevy. Its free. No rust except floor and trunk pans, but there are massive dents in the Hood, roof and trunk lid. They are all steel. Any ideas on how I can repair these myself I was thinking a ball and peen hammer and then maybe something a little less gruesome. I dont have the money to take it to a shop. I am trying to fix the metal and I dont want to have to pour lead or use bondo. Any ideas?

They look repairable, maybe not the hood but how would you guys go about doing this. Almost all mechanics tools are accessible but I dont have much for body work other than a small paint gun. What should I get/pickup.

 

<-- why not just leave that part out and ask the rest of the question as is? You know this kinda stuff always stirs up some people.

As for the real question. I recently read one of the car magazines and they did their own little review of a stud welder that Harbor Freight sells. It was 80 bucks and it did exactly what it was supposed to do. For non professional use, might be well worth it.

Then you'd need a slide hammer (100-200 bucks for relatively decent set) to hook up to the studs and pull. This would probalby work better than hammer and dolly because half the time you won't even be able to get to the other side. Also Len from autobodystore.com said that even when he can get to the other side, he actually prefers the slide hammer approach. Then as you get close to the actual body line, keep pulling with the slide thing and use the body hammer to even everything out.

When you are done, you can just cut and grind the studs into non-existance and no holes to fill. Not the absolute cheapest approach, probably, but it is one of those "you get what you pay for" things.


If you go with hammer and dolly method, make sure you know that dolly makes the metal move when you have a dent, not the hammer. Hold dolly tight against the panel and as the hammer strikes, make sure it doesn't bounce. The rebound force will actually rise the metal. Always start with the shallowest point of the dent and work towards the center.

good luck.

 

btw, when you think there is no rust, wait till you take all the removables off and really start blasting/griding things. You'll be surpised how much rust a car that was believed to be no rust has. I am going through that whole thing with my 88 camaro right now.

all I am saying is be prepared for the worst instead of thinking body work is going to be a walk in the park.

 

The car is in the woods, hood is popped, trunk is popped, it needs floor pans and glass, but the body is still there. Judging by the trees around it. The car has been there about 50 yrs. I can handle a $300 bill.

Its an old Chevy 2 door.

Thank You.

 

AMEN TO THAT....