i put the hi-rise spoiler on my car and now have those 6 holes (3 on each side) just constantly staring at me. what can i use to close them up? would fiberglass work? or would i have 2 just weld something in there?

 

Theres alot of debate on what can and can't be used..

Most will agree cutting sheet metal "backing plates" and welding them in, then filling top with body filler would be the best.

But a tip I lernt from some older custom body guys when filling in holes (mirrors, antt, trim, spolier, etc)

Take and dimple the hole (punch and hammer, or die grinder), put a pc of tape (duct tape or that metal body tape) behind the hole, then fill over the top with platsic body filler (bondo), pushing the filler into the hole and on top of tape. Let it hardern, then lighty sand, and add more filler to get the "hole" level with the body. Sand it, and you might even have to add more filler. The idea with bomdo is not to just lump it on. Many light coats are better than 1 or 2 big globs of it.

I used the tape and bondo way many times in the past to fill in trim holes or mirror mounting hole.

In fact I put a 91z28 spolier on my 88 not long ago and filled the stock holes up the same way

 

that is exactly how i was going 2 do it, but was not 100% sure if that would work or not.

 

Technically that'll work, I did it to shave my antenna on my bird. It just isn't really the proper way. But the holes are small and it's hard to get in there with a welder so it's your call.

 

There are a few brands availible, 2 part epoxy (steel reinforeced)... it's 2 clays... you mix together and fill the hole with the putty... In 30 mins or less it's dry and hard. it is super light weight, super strong... can then be sanded down, primered and painted... You can buy some at any auto parts store

I've used it several times on many things with excellent results.

Rafael

 

So short hair bond glass should do the trick ?

Same question here, looking at an old post, got myself another spolier and I'll need to fill the holes from the RS spoiler.

 

The "only" method that will not come back to haunt you is weld them up. Bondo or any other type of filler will eventually come loose. Even the fiberglass reinforced fillers like "Kitty Hair" will show sooner or later.

Adhesion is a major problem in all these products if not properly prepped. The second problem is the difference in expansion and contraction rates. Eventually it will show, so you may as well have it welded up and be done with it....

 

Exactly right. Sooner or later, moisture will get behind the bondo repair, and start pushing it back out of the original hole. That's what causes bubbles in the paint. Weld the holes up--that's the only way to do it right.

 

Exactly. Being a body man, I've seen some very crappy repairs....people mudding over holes and stuff. If you use any kind of filler over a hole...it will either eventually fall out...or shrink. Let's say you fill a hole with filler....prime it, paint it. Now, your ready to buff. Chances are...when you run a buffer over that area....the filler will start "popping up" do to the heat. Just a thought....

 

IF .. I decide to weld them up rather than using fiberglass filler (which means I'd have to borrow a welder or something) ... would it be done this way ?

Grind down the edges to expose bare metal
Hold a piece of copper at on the inside of the panel
Using a MIG welder, fill it in


And after that grind, skim coat of filler, primer and paint


Am I correct ?

 

Yes, always grind to bare metal when welding.

I can't remember the size of the holes, or if there is access available from the back side. If they aren't too large and you have access then you can use the copper plate. If they are much larger than a pencil eraser then I recommend using a small filler patch rather than trying to fill the entire hole with weld.

You can hit the filler with your MIG and let the wire stick, then feed a bit more wire out and cut it off. This will give you a handle to hold while welding. The key is go slow moving from one hole to the next allowing cool time so you don't warp the panel.

If you know someone that has a MIG or TIG welder "and" they know how to use it, buy them a beer and let them weld while you watch and learn...