Removing rear defroster
Removing rear defroster
After reading yeah i see it's probably better to buy a defrosterless hatch, but to save me money I'd rather just remove mine(doesnt really work anyway) and I'm getting 20% tint. So I took some razor blades and tried to remove it but it wouldn't come off. Some crap came off but the red line is still there and can't get it off. It's like it's died into the windshield. So will it come off or how can I get it off?
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Redding, Ca
Car: 1988 Camaro, 1960 F-100
Engine: 2.8L V6, 223 inline 6
Transmission: TH-700R4, T98
Axle/Gears: 3.42/3.11 Posi Lock
Its etched in.. I dont think you will ever be happy with the way it will look once you remove the copper part......
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Atlanta
Car: '02 T/A WS6, '91 T/A, '91 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1, LB9, L03
Transmission: T56, 700R4, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 10 bolt, 2.73 10 bolts
What color's your car? If it's white and the defroster grid isn't damaged, I'll trade you my non-defrost hatch. I've been trying to find a 90-92 hatch with defrost for months...I'm located about 20 miles north of atlanta.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally Posted by navy02ws6
What color's your car? If it's white and the defroster grid isn't damaged, I'll trade you my non-defrost hatch. I've been trying to find a 90-92 hatch with defrost for months...I'm located about 20 miles north of atlanta.
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Posts: 178
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From: Connecticut
Car: 90 firebird
Engine: 350 5.7L
Transmission: Th-400 w/ Manual valve body
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Richmond gears
I'd like to know what more than scraping it with a razor is involved. I'm going with a 5% tint and want it gone. Thanks.
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