Outer Window Felt Shortcut
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
Outer Window Felt Shortcut
My old outer window felts were cracked and brittle, and I wanted to take care of the problem before they started allowing water to get into my doors.
As you all probably know, some of the small sheetmetal screws that hold the felts in place are hidden behind the window glass, no matter how far you roll it down. Using a very small and thin 7mm combination wrench, I was able to remove them without removing the window, which is what you are supposed to do.
Reinstalling was a bit more challenging, since the window glass is really in your way. But, I was able to do the entire job without removing the window, and with only a minimal amount of swearing and beer drinking. I didn't want to remove the glass because of the extra work and because I have heard so many people complain abouit how hard they are to adjust once disturbed!
Here is the process.
Although this pic is a bit blurry, what I am doing here is using a pair of needlenose pliers to grip the screw right under the head, where the threads start, and wedge it into position as best as I can:
Next, using my trusty mini-7mm-combo wrench, I try to get the screw started while still controlling it from falling with the needlenose:
The finishing touch is to use a small nail punch, as pictured, to apply constant leverage against the top of the screw's head, pushing the screw into its hole, while using the mini 7mm wrench (the open ended part) to gradually tighten the screw:
There are, as I recall, two screws that I had to do in this manner. I'll be using the same technique when I tacke the DS felts.
I had a telescopic magnet on hand to retrieve the screw from the bottom of the door, where they fell a couple of times during the process. I also applied a tiny dab of anti-seize to each screw to make them go in just a bit easier.
I hope this info helps to save at least one other person from wasted time and aggravation.
As you all probably know, some of the small sheetmetal screws that hold the felts in place are hidden behind the window glass, no matter how far you roll it down. Using a very small and thin 7mm combination wrench, I was able to remove them without removing the window, which is what you are supposed to do.
Reinstalling was a bit more challenging, since the window glass is really in your way. But, I was able to do the entire job without removing the window, and with only a minimal amount of swearing and beer drinking. I didn't want to remove the glass because of the extra work and because I have heard so many people complain abouit how hard they are to adjust once disturbed!
Here is the process.
Although this pic is a bit blurry, what I am doing here is using a pair of needlenose pliers to grip the screw right under the head, where the threads start, and wedge it into position as best as I can:
Next, using my trusty mini-7mm-combo wrench, I try to get the screw started while still controlling it from falling with the needlenose:
The finishing touch is to use a small nail punch, as pictured, to apply constant leverage against the top of the screw's head, pushing the screw into its hole, while using the mini 7mm wrench (the open ended part) to gradually tighten the screw:
There are, as I recall, two screws that I had to do in this manner. I'll be using the same technique when I tacke the DS felts.
I had a telescopic magnet on hand to retrieve the screw from the bottom of the door, where they fell a couple of times during the process. I also applied a tiny dab of anti-seize to each screw to make them go in just a bit easier.
I hope this info helps to save at least one other person from wasted time and aggravation.
#3
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
Nope, power windows!
I suspect that on some cars, the little rubber "bump stop" that stops the window in its downward travels cracks and breaks and falls off, allowing the window to go down further than it is supposed to. On my car, the bump stop on the PS is intact and supple, and only allows the window to go down so far.
I suspect that on some cars, the little rubber "bump stop" that stops the window in its downward travels cracks and breaks and falls off, allowing the window to go down further than it is supposed to. On my car, the bump stop on the PS is intact and supple, and only allows the window to go down so far.
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Miami
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
You can also loosen the felt guides that push up against the window and use little wedges of wood to hold the glass back away from the screws. That helped me when I replaced mine. Still a pain in the *** though.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '89 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5
isnt there 1 or 2 screws behind the triangle peice as well? When I was taking mine out last year I could reach those ones with the window all the way down and the adjusters on the inside of the door off without trouble. Then I found out there was 1 or 2 behind the triangle peice.. So I checked in the manual what the proper procedure for removing this stupid thing was and it was all about removing the entire window, I had a "GM sucks" moment and just ripped it the rest of the way off.
#6
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
dr1, yes, there is one screw hidden behind that triangle piece. You don't have to remove the window to get to it, but you do have to remove that triangle piece and the metal guide channel what it is attached to. Two 10mm nuts up top, one 10mm bolt down low. I just used a Sharpie to outline all the bolt head locations and bracket positioning so that on reassembly I would get it back exactly the way it had been.
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
That's the side that I just replaced in the photos above. Full set available on Ebay from 1a Auto, for like $57. Good quality.
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Miami
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Originally Posted by Bull
That's the side that I just replaced in the photos above. Full set available on Ebay from 1a Auto, for like $57. Good quality.
#10
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
You're welcome. Where did you hear that they were discontinued? If they are, I'm going to stock up on a couple spare sets for the future.
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
I got them from the dealership I work at. I think it was like $57 including tax for both of them, and they were in stock. I don't think that my discount is really that good, so it might be worth checking it out for GM parts. The only problem I had was after the install, both the windows didn't close all the way. So I paid one of the body shop guys at the dealership $20 and he also aligned my hood He also pionted out some minor repairs that I could do that I was not aware of. Any ways, make the car look better then one with all cracked/tore up ones. Just that got me many more compliments then before.
#12
Supreme Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
I did this about 2 weeks ago, I encountered minimal problems, but I did not use the wndow felt, I used weather stripping with an adhesive side..it does the job although the window now takes a bit longer to roll up. But it stopped all the window rattles, which is Why It was done, it also keeps out water.
Last edited by Psycho_91Camaro; 06-25-2006 at 12:53 PM.
#13
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
Yeah, keeping out the water was the primary concern for me, though rattles and aesthetics were also factors. On my '77 GP, the doors rusted at the bottom because the felts were destryoed, there were no replacements, and water got into the doors all the time. Bad deal.
#14
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
For those of you that decide to do this, if you remove the window fuzzies that keep the window from tipping, you can easily get a wrench over all of the 7mm bolts to remove and reinstall with no swearing or beer needed. Just make sure to re-install the window fuzzies in their proper snug location before you put the door panel back on.
#15
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
Originally Posted by Jim85IROC
For those of you that decide to do this, if you remove the window fuzzies that keep the window from tipping, you can easily get a wrench over all of the 7mm bolts to remove and reinstall with no swearing or beer needed. Just make sure to re-install the window fuzzies in their proper snug location before you put the door panel back on.
#16
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Miami
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Originally Posted by Jim85IROC
For those of you that decide to do this, if you remove the window fuzzies that keep the window from tipping, you can easily get a wrench over all of the 7mm bolts to remove and reinstall with no swearing or beer needed. Just make sure to re-install the window fuzzies in their proper snug location before you put the door panel back on.
I already said that!
Anyway, I heard from a Classic Industries sales rep that the passenger side was discontinued. And I think the lady at the dealership parts counter said the same (but she rarely knows what she's looking for ). Maybe I'll look back into the passenger side...
#17
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
Originally Posted by ScottyRS
I already said that!
#18
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2002 Camaro
Engine: :(
Transmission: T5
You can buy reproduction pieces from the Paddock I just purchased for $41 each(outer felt) Th inner ones you can still purchase also either with the plastic trim panel or you can get them seperate. I think it is about $56 for both inners and $114 with the trim piece.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post