I have searched previous Threads, still no definate answers.

I found rust when i peeled back my t top seals. I removed the seals.

I am going to sand blast (for my first time) the rust. There is a lip holding down the seals at the front that is almost rusted off. I think i'll just use JB weld or plastic metal to restore the lip.

My questions are:

1. After i sand blast the rust which products in what combination would you use to keep the rust away and make sure i got it all. ( please be specific on the products!)

I am thinking
a) rust primer ( rust check makes one but they seem to be very non durable and always a bit gooey)
b) med green metallic paint (factory).
I here rumors of acids, and regular primers,, converters.....nobody gives you a good definate answer on rust.


2. My second question, What products do you use to re attach the seals? When I pulled mine off the goo was adhesive in the corners,,, and silicone looking throughout.

Thanks Guys!

 

bump, id like to know also.

 

ok.. first question.. what to use to stop the rust.. see eastwood.com .. they have rust converter to apply to the rust to stop it in its tracks, may be best to scuff and paint with regular paint afterwards.. second question.. what to reattach the seals with.. 3m seal adhesive is the stuff.. can be found at most auto parts stores..

 

Well what i did was...

Remove the old trim, take 1 day to remove the old silicone, ( hardest part),,,then i sand blasted the rust after taping off the car.....( hint tape of where the window meets the glass at the doors) when sand blasting.

Then i fixed the rail that was rusted with metal ( the lips that hold in the seal).

Then nice thick coats of rust primer to be followed with med green metallic.


then Permetex black silicone adhesive sealent to the outer pinch rails,, and 3m adheasive to the corners.

Personal note, only 3m product i will NEVER use again . It tacks so fast its almost useless, and then its stringy so making a smooth finish is absolutly impossible. The permatex can be sculpeed beautifully and is the only product you need to do the job., not to mention it removes of the seals very well after, the 3m remains stringy.

The wierd by product i was not expecting was that my t top seals did not leak in the car wash after my operation was complete! ( no thanks to 3m) Eventually i had to fill the corners with permatex anyway. I used a caulking gun with the permatex.

 

Looked good at the cruise night this week!

Just a note for your next rust removal project too......POR15 is about the ultimate. They have 2 prep stages before the POR15 called "Marine Clean" and "Metal Ready". The marine clean removes all the grease and dirt and then the metal ready etches the metal so the POR15 paint sticks like crazy. It also dissolves any rust that is there (trust me on this one it works awesome, not like these supposed rust converters) and even puts down a zinc/phos coating for future rust prevention. THe POR 15 is then a ROCK HARD coating that is crazy durable. You can also top coat it with whatever paint you want when still tacky. The rust will never come back if you do the prep stages as well.

 

Good to know about the Permatex being better than the 3M, since I am about to do this same job.

How much sealant did you apply under the seals before placing them? A lot, so that it squeezes up and has to be cleaned away, or a little bead? And, did you just appy it underneath the entire length of weatherstrip, or just in certain areas?

Gotta go and remove the old stringy 3M from my channels right now...that stuff is like soft tar! Not a fun job.

 

Ok, this job officially sucks and makes me wish I had a hardtop. It is going to take me many hours to clean the t-top channels and the area under the t-bar of all the old, super-gooey black weatherstrip adhesive.