Deleted. Do not PM me or ask me questions about this thread.

 

i think thats the same gun i have, and i have to agree. it works really good. its not professional, but it gives a good reliable spray. dont forget your water trap, they're cheap and you'll regret it if you get water, trust me.

 

really good job!

 

I want to see some pics of it all back together and outside.

 

Hey not to bad. I'm not going to hate on your post but. U should not put bondo over paint,Why are u use rattle can primmer, Reg primmer is not for bare metal. For bare metal u should use a etching primmer or a epoxy primmer,Did u put any kind of flex in the paint for the bumper, And u got that orange peel cuz your gun is not set right.. I can spray in 50 degrees and lay out a nice paint job.( its is better to be in 70 to 75)Your pattern is way to small.And be carefull useing plastic like that to mask up the hatch..When i first started painting cars i did that when i was on my 3 coat the first coat that was on the plastic blow off right into my paint.. They do make plastic for painting..... And the last thing a reg respirator is not good enuff for spraying paints with a hardener. I'm not busting on your post . But alot of people will read this and there are somethings that are not right...

 

Dieing to see the final product of this.

I will be painting my 89 iroc in the spring (once its above 10 degrees haha)

I will do a BC/CC, well, my dad(NomadTA) and i will, i pay for hte paint, and he sprays haha

 

Damn that is a ton of peel, that's going to take more than a little sanding before it can be buffed to a shine. You're going to take half of your film build thickness off to level the peaks on the orange peel. I used that gun to shoot SS Urethane. It is worth what it cost, doesn't spray too badly if it is kept clean.

Something else really really important that people should keep in mind is that catalyzed paint (almost any modern auto body paint) will not harden below 50 or 60 deg F, depending on manufacturer and type of paint. The chemical reaction that occurs when you add the hardener will not be carried out below a certain temperature. You would be better off not spraying it at all than trying to paint below these temps. I am not trying to be rude at all, just trying to save people aggrivation of spending time and money and ending up with paint that will never ever be as hard or glossy as it would have been under the right conditions.

I have found autobody101.com to be a great resource, especially on their message board. There are lots of guys who do this for a living who will answer questions

 

there are a few of us on here that have been doing this a long time to.. I like autobody101. but not that many people go on there.

 

Hey man thanx for posting something like this. I'm the type of guy that doesn't like to let some guy work on my car i like to know every detail every misperfection and blame it on me instead of the shop owner. I've done a rattle can paint job before on my first car i did al the sanding and all the bondo and body filler on the knowledge i knew and it came out to be a nice paint job but didn't come out like the way i wanted it but it looked alright for a paint job some people were amazed on how it came out and some people knew that it was sprayed once they got closer to the car. But know that you explained more on how to do a cheap good looking paint job I'm gonna try it on my bird it needs one and if it comes out bad **** happens. I'll get a friend to paint it who took auto body in school and is going to fallow up with it.

If anyone would like to see the paint job just private message me

Oh where did you buy that gun what site did you get it from?

 

I used no bondo over paint only over bare metal or primer. Urethane primer works just fine for bare metal. Self etching and epoxy is better I agree but urethane is quite sufficient. Urethane is urethane so rattle can does not matter. It is not the cheapo lacquer primer.

The gun was diffinately set right because later on this week I set it the same way and it laid it down like glass due to the warmer environment.

Plus the rubout is working just fine. Just stay tuned for the new pics shortly.

 

I will have to disargee with u on the primmer..
Primmer in a rattle can does not have a hardener in it . Over time it will shrink. U could spent like 100 150 bucks more and get better materials..
but just my 2 cents

 

Jay92 you are totally correct but most people who want to paint a car like this aren't going to care. You will see all the sanding scratches down the road when the primer shrinks under the paint. It may take months and years but it will eventually shrink.

 

$200 for primer will defeat the whole purpose of this thread. Please read my disclaimers on the first post.

My car will be painted again. This is to help everyone else out. That is what I am all about here.

 

OK

 

any pictures?

 

nelapse, i think you're doing great on all this. it's a shame people didn't read the first thread outlining that this was a BUDGET PAINT JOB just done to GET YOU BY UNTIL A NEW ONE WAS PUT ON. people keep giving pointers to turn this into a better than factory job but they're failing to realize that if you took all their suggestions this wouldn't be the "Paint your car for less than $250" thread this would be just another "I Painted My Car" thread...good work and it looks nice!

Josh

 

i can't get my primer for that cheap let alone 1/4 of the material i needed to do my paint job. not to shabby...

 

Thanks everyone. I will give you guys updates soon. My car is under the knife because I took my TPI stuff off and I am saleing or trading it for a carb setup. My choices of cleaners suck for birds so I have a stock firebird hood I cut a 15" hole into and riveted a 4" cowl so the cleaner sticks through the hood.

So right now I am redoing another hood.

Anyone need a power buldge?

 

Do you need another car to experement with,you can come to Rome and get mine.

 

What is the final result with this thread? Any pics of the finished product? I'm dying over here!!!


FH

 

Yeah,what's been going on with it?

 

This link didnt work for me...

 

latching on this may be something i may try just untill i get the good job done

 

yeah, did you get all that orange peel taken care of?

 

id love to see more pics

 

Hold your horses, next next weekend I am painting a new hood. My car has no hood. I did a carb swap and to make clearance I had to make a 4" cowl. So I need to paint the hood. Then I will show you guys everything!

 

anything yet?

 

Sweet

 

Really good thread.

 

i wanna see some outside pics

 

any updates?

 

I'm dying to see the results! How much longer are you going to keep us in suspense with all these teasers!?

 

We need more pics!

 

I tried a new color. The color I had previous was candy apple red. Looked really brown almost, so I bought a gallon of "torch red" and it was a world of difference.

These are some updated pictures with one of the 5 helo's I fly on. Enjoy.
I will try and make some beach photos this afternoon.

 

Im very impressed man, how about a close up?

 

Later this afternoon I will shoot it at the beach. I will give you some close ups. This isnt a flawless paint job. It still needs to be buffed. This is all without being buffed.

 

looks great in the pictures buffed or not. nice job

 

Wow, i'm loving the cowl hood. Do you need the cowl or is it decorative? Have you sealed the carb to it yet?
.
.
.
And you're a helicoptor pilot? Man, that's gotta be a panty remover... Or do you just ride? I guess either way works...

oh yea, paint looks good too.

 

Here you go gents

-Sonix- No, I am not a pilot, I am a flight mechanic and hoist operator. During a search and rescue I direct the pilots and lower the rescue swimmer down to the boats, or rescue baskets, flares, rafts etc.

The cowl is 100% functional and required. I could not shut the hood other wise.

Here is the underside of the hood, I used weather stripping to keep water from plaguing my engine when it rains.










----------
Here is some other pics if you are curious

 

oh, so the hood doesn't seal to the air cleaner eh? So the air cleaner is taking in some air from underhood, and some from the cowl probably eh?

I was thinking you'd use some kind of plate below the air cleaner, with tall foam, to seal the air cleaner to the cowl induction, so it's forced to take in it's air from there.
I like the idea of the weatherstripping to keep the water out, but you may want to look into sealing the air intake to the hood. Should lower the temp of the air coming in some.

Looks very nice. 4" cowl?
What's the motor specs / guestimated output again?

 

Well, I wanted to use a 6 inch filter so I will, I will not make a plate yet because I want a fiberglass hood. So while I am driving I can see the cleaner.

No idea on power... it needs a tune pretty bad.

 

Looks nice

Painted my bird last summer, cost me $500ish

Whatd ya do with the TPI setup?

 

traded it for the carb

 

looks good

 

WOW! That's nice for the price! Now a question (for anyone, really...)

Bear with me, I know this is designed to be a budget paintjob. BUT- could one conceivably spend the extra money on some higher quality automotive clear coat and use this as a longer term poor man's paintjob? Or would the paint go bad under the clear coat from the sun?

EDIT: Spelling

 

I am just researching this stuff as this is my plan for my camaro project, never done any body work or painting before so i am very much a beginner.. I did find some things that i need help with..

I looked at Acrylics on Ebay and it was the Acrylic Urethane that said to mix 4:1:1, the Acrylic Enamel said to use 8:1:2..... This conflicts with the mix you said you used for your Acrylic Enamel.

Acrylic Enamel
Acrylic Urethane

Also, the tech sheet said you could spray their clear over the Acrylic Urethane for better long term durability and 'wet-look'... Would the Urethane be a better option since you can spray clear over it once it has dried?

Tech Sheet

Also, i know you are only supposed to apply body filler to bare metal, but you always get told to spray bare metal with Self Etching primer.. But then you cant put body filler on since it is no longer bare metal.. So which should you do? Body filler or self etching primer?

Are both the Acrylic Enamel and Acrylic Urethane suitable to spray over plastic bumpers since they can flex somewhat?

Would it be better to spray the entire car with a primer sealer before spraying the acrylic thus ensuring a uniform base across the entire car? I know the purpose is for a poor mans paint job but since all of the effort is in the prep, when i do this i want to do the best i can for the money and if that includes spending a bit extra to get a better result then i would rather do that..

Sorry for the long post and all the questions

Cheers,
Richard.

 

First off, 4:1:1 is the only ratio I have seen for acrylic enamel. If you think I mixed it wrong then look at my car. There may be different mix ratios but I have not see it yet with acrylic enamel.

As for primer sealer... sure you can use it. The main reason people use primer sealer is for lets say, you have old laquer paint and you are going to paint your car with lets say, urethane. You need a sealer because the lacquer will make the urethane bubble up. You do not need it in my application, so I did not use it. This is suppose to be a poor mans paint job. If you want top notch professional, then you might want to search a different thread.

As far as I know the paint works fine with my bumpers, I have flexed them left and right and no cracks yet.

 

Take it easy buddy, i'm just trying to learn here, thought that was the point of you starting this thread - to help us noobs out... i never said i was looking for a top notch paint job as you put it, thats why i am looking here.. was just after some help and advise.

 

No one is upset or anything. Just replying to you is all. Sorry you took it the way you did.

 

Well all I have to say is THANKS for this thread.. Me and my son are restoring an 87,,, the body work is light,, Thank God,, my son wants gloss black!! I have not shot paint in years,,but after reading this thread I got a kit from e-bay, 78.00 dollars including the shipping.. I can't go wrong with that.. if it doesn't work out I will sand down again and have some one else shoot.. but for $250.00 paint job and my teenage son wanting to spend time with dad in the garage...PRICELESS