I hope it works out for you. Please post your results here.

 

Looks great,now I just have to find a new body,my underbody is full of cracks and isn't worth fixing.

 

So how exactly do you buff the single step paint?

Just wetsand and buff it out with a buffer and some buffing compound?

 

Yep

 

i did not read the entire post it was way to long. not to dis you im just trying to help out, but you dont need to sand off all the clear coat! its actually better to paint over it unless it is cracked or peeling off then you need to only in those spots. and get a tube of icing if your only fixing small dents about 15 bucks and its made to go right over sanded paint or clear coat. also you could get a way better finish by usung base clear, i have seen some really good single stage jobs though but you just gotta know how to lay it on. a gallon of base only runs 70 to 100 for basic colors but like reds will be like 150+ range but black and white is only 80 at your local car quest or napa and some nasan clear or any cheap clear is around 80 bucks a gallon thats enough for a whole car 2 coats! the cheap stuff is just as good as the expensive crap just the flash (drying time) and such vary. you dont need to use less than 320 grit unless you have rust to repair. like i said im not trying to degrade you or tell you thats not how to do it its good your helping ppl out to make all there f-body look better and it seems you helped alot from all the posts. i am an auto body tech and do this proffessionally just so you dont think im pulling this from my as$. i repainted my mothers accord for $180 dollars base clear. im sorry not trying to jack the thread but help out. good luck

 

I do not agree with your methods, but I do however appreciate your opinion. For the record, I expect anyone who reads this thread to make their own opinions.


Also, Alot of thirdgens have shotty clear coats, the thinner mixed with the paint can easily upset the clear and make the whole spray job worthless. This is why I strongly recommend anyone to get rid of 100% of the clear coat.

 

I'm sorry if this is "kind of" an old bump, but I just thought I'd say.. thank you so much for the tutorial. I've just bought an '88 firebird, and it has it's share of rust-damage in spots, and frankly, I have 1 month to work with it and a small budget to restore it, so something like this is perfect. I want to be abel to protect the car from further rust damage before it gets TOO late.

In any case, I'll again say you did a GREAT job with the tutorial, and I've had 0 experience with painting cars, and am considering going along with this when I feel it's right, not to mention wit ha few friends' help who work in an auto-shop. I was wondering though, if I were to want to spend like.. $400 instead on this, what would you invest this extra money in? I'm wanting to get the deepest, darkest black I can get, with it still retaining a shine. Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I can buy to achieve this better, even if it does cost a bit more than normal? Also, I'm wanting this to last at least through college (I'll be heading up to UT for the 5 year Bachelor/Master program), so I'm wanting to know what should be applied. Like I said, I'm new, but I'm lurking through tutorials and forums everywhere trying to grasp this, but it's just not the same when you've had no experience.

Thanks again!

 

Well that depends, do you have an air compressor?

You can spend the money and get a professional buffer, that way you can make a super gloss on the acrylic enamel.

I am not a professional Painter. This tutorial, is to show you what I did, and if you want to do it, this is what would happen. Good luck to you.

 

actually.. I don't have anything, so I may have to fork over some extra $ to get a gun and the sander. So that means I have no air compressor. But what exactly would a professional buffer do? I guess make it all a bit more glossy? If so, is there any specs of the buffer that I should look for, or any brands on your head that are good? Because, as mentioned, the three most important things to me is holding/maintaining a dark color, keeping things glossy, and something that begin ruining "too" quickly. When I'm out of college, my income should be a bit better off, so I can worry about a professional job then, but I was considering devoting about +/- $500 on painting the parts alone, so spending a bit extra to make it look a bit more pro won't hurt. Thanks for the quick response.

EDIT: Oh, and when I go through with things, I'll post pictures and comment on anything if I do something differently, such as the buffer.

 

Well, walmart has an industrial buffer. Kinda looks like an angle grinder because it is basically lol. That particular kind utilizes a long stem, so when you use the pads you can keep the buffer body from the paint and have more control. Also the speed is variable.

You need some kind of compressor though.

 

hmm ok, I'll hold that in thought.

Any take on a good air compressor to go after? Or what to look out for when buying one?

Oh. and I don't know how much this affects everything, but I live in Houston, TX.. soo it's pretty hot down here normally.

 

When it comes to compressors and painting your car, you want to get the biggest one you can afford. You also need to buy the water trap that collects water from the compressed air. You do not want any moisture in your paint trust me.

You may be able to rent a compressor or borrow someones.

 

hmm.. sounds like they are QUITE pricey.. Oh well. That shouldn't be a big problem then. I have a few friends that work up at an Auto-Collision Repair Shop.. and they have ties with a detailing shop down the road, so maybe I can get a hookup there.

Thanks again for all your help. I'll try giving all of this a shot and post back any progress if so.

 

Perhaps a better idea, just rent a paint booth. Just about anyone will let you use the booth for a price.

 

alright, I'll see what I can do with it. thanks for the advice.

 

Don't paint your car black if you have surface imperfections, and if you have never done this before. Paint it a light, non-metallic color. Dark colors will show wavy panels, bad surface prep (sanding marks, etc), etc. Light colors will be a lot more forgiving.

 

really?? I had figured darker colors would've been a bit easier to hide things with.. besides dirt. Any easy way I can prevent the imperfections showing up? I guess I can just try making sure I do a good job with everything so nothing shows up, but any extra precautions or steps?

 

No. Most shops charge a lot more for black on a restoration job. It will show EVERYTHING. If you have any dents, filler work, sanding, and this is your first time doing it, it will all show up in the paint. The darker the color, the more depth it has. A black paint job with waves and such in it does not look good.

 

Hmm.. I guess I'm trumped there.

Well.. how about this. Getting the equipment needed for this job will be a bit tougher than expected, so I'm "CONSIDERING" a MAACO job. I know.. I know.. but I've become pretty desperate. I'll still probably try to this tutorial out, but can I get someone's opinion here.

I was thinking about just priming my car up to spec, and fill all the areas that need to be filled.. and basically do all the work that will be needed apart from painting. Then I'll bring everything up to maaco, after washing it thoroughly, and getting them to paint it (I'm thinking the "Presidential" special shown here: http://maaco.com/auto-painting-service.aspx )

I just don't trust myself or my friends w/ the spray-gun.. haha. Does anyone have their opinion on how this might turn out, vs following th etutorial? I know it'll be a bit more expensive, but anyone's opinion is welcome and appreciated.

As for the color, I'm still a bit stumped on how I should have it. I've looked around these forums for examples, but I just don't find many firebirds at all.. rather everything is just dominated by Camaros xD. That and.. I don't know what colors Maaco sports yet.. so I guess we'll see from there. I'll do a bit more studying up on how they paint, their options, and what colors with pricing though. Thanks everyone

 

Maaco can spray just about any color. Their $250 ambassador job will be as cheap or cheaper than what you can do yourself, since they buy in bulk. The prep work will probably be sub par.

 

hmm, any advice on their Presidential job? I'm not sure what the prices are, but I'm guessing that one is like $500?

EDIT: I've noticed many people complaining about paint peeling off, though they also have never mentioned primering their car first, rather just taking it up there and most likely getting paint on paint xD. So would it be wise (if I stuck w/ Maaco), to get theri job, clean it up again, and apply clear coat over it all to prevent peeling? Thanks again.

 

I've shot some paint not but not for some time.. my son wants gloss black, so he gets gloss black. if fact the kit from e-bay is all ready here.. we will take our time doing the body work, and I know it won't be perfect. with that said, I say go for it, for less than $500 you could get all that you need. my kit is a gallon kit(should be enough paint to do two cars) so if and when i mess up I will sand and redo till out of paint.. When you get done with your paint job this way you will have an air compressor and paint gun.. best of luck ether way you go..

 

Hmm, I'm wondering..

Does anyone know of a good "bank" where I can see many different car colors and their name? I was looking, and there are so many different names for just a few colors, like the difference between "sunset orange" and "hugger orange" may seem minimal at first, or depending what angle, but in reality it's a pretty big difference, and even then you can throw a "tangerine" in there, thought that IS a bit more outrageous of a color... Or does anyone know many popular ones to go for a bit? My main eyes are set on different kinds of orange, or blacks.

And no, I'm actually getting a good friend to help me out with this, who works in a paint booth, so I'll be actually going a bit more professional this go-around, so am looking for some newer colors..

 

This is not a Maaco thread. If you want to talk about Maaco paint jobs then please create a new topic.

 

I know.. I know.. I apologize for bringing Maaco up. But that's past now.

I am going to go through what you have posted on your tutorial, and do that now that I have all the requirements. I'm just wondering if there is a site anywhere that has a dictionary of different color paints for cars. I don't need TOO exact, just common ones, like "sunset orange, triple black, hugger orange, candy apple red, gunmetal, arctic white..."

 

Easiest thing to do is go to an automotive paint shop. They can look up anything.

 

you may want to check out e-bay they have gallon kits under $100. they won't have all the colors that a paint shop will, but maybe a color you like.

 

nelapse,
my car was primered before I got it, but still need to do light body work..
do you think I can get away with a light sand on the rest before topcoat, or should I re primer? I have a 1/2 gallon lacker primer..

 

depends on the primer. Cheap primers, like lacquer primers, when left exposed to the elements for an extended period of time, it will absorb moisture and really ruin a paint job.

I would strip it to the barebones, I wouldn't risk it unless you know for sure what kind of primer it really is.

 

First off let me put this out clearly,

I am NOT here to start trouble or just "flame" a thread,I am going to state some FACTS,not blinding cut ups or off the wall theories.
Im totaly WITH people doing a paint job cheap theirselves..far from aganst it..i deal with it daily from the local guys in our 4x4 club we have for weekend fun in the mud,there is no sense in putting an expensive paint job on a vehicle that is regularly being abused in mud and scraping bushes and trees daily.
These eBay paints being bought are JUNK...we have bought it several times from all the 3 of the major sellers..paintforcars,autopaintpro etc...
These paints are very transparent,thats why you get it cheap,not much color pigment in them at all,second off,no one knows what is actualy in these cheap paints ,therefore its a 50/50 gamble in the fact if it will react to any primers or paint you are putting them over.
The last one i personaly sprayed was from Paintforcars...one gallon kit for a freind who has an old ranger 4x4 shortbed,there wasnt enough paint in a gallon to properly color the whole truck and usualy it only takes a minumum of 1/2 that of good economy paint(Omni).
After finding this out instead of waiting the usualy minumum of 2 weeks for them to deliver more i talked him into going to the local jobber and getting Omni basecoat and still use the clear coat from ebay just to get it done,we did as the usual,waited the recommended 24 hrs for the urethane ebay paint to cure,sanded with 800 grit and started to spray with my mini gun to hit the hard to get areas first,ive NEVER seen such a chemical reaction(lifting as put in tech terms),so we sanded those spots out,let sit 24 hrs,sprayed an epoxy sealer primer over the whole thing and started spraying again,geuss what<about 40% of the paint lifted AGAIN even through epoxy sealer,there was something in that ebay paint that NO ONE could figure out,local jobbers,pro painter i use the for the high end custom work in my bussiness,etc,what ever it was in that paint it even bled through epoxy sealer
The paint jobs weve used this paint on is after 6 months to a year is fading and scratches very easily
Im not gonna bore you with more details of this paint,but can say this,most of them average 70-90.00 total kit and shipped,basic colors from Omni(wich is cheaper line of PPG) can be had for less,i just painted a rod for a guy with the Omni AU basecoat ..VW ravenna blue metallic..beautifull color,spent 120.00 total on one gallon including the reducer for it,it mixes 1 to 1,which makes 2 full gallons of sprayable and it covers great,just do the math on how much it would cost if i bought it by the quarts,my average is just 2 quarts to full color an average car,that ebay paint does not cover it.
I honestly cannot see "6 coats" from a gallon of that cheap transparent paint,first off,, if your using a gallon to cover a car totaly,something is definitely wrong,second..orange peel does NOT come from the low temps,it comes from the improper settings of the gun and spraying technique..3rd and most of all,im still waiting to see this sand & buff of all that Orange peel with acrylic enamel...
After the acrylic enamel cures,a gloss film comes to the top,once you cut into that the paint gets dull.
The more you cut into the AC(acrylic Enamel) you are taking the color away,fading..mis color matching..etc
As dull as that paint looked when done and rough the surface,im geussing there was more of a chemical reaction in the paint than orange peel.
Another thing for folks thinking of doing this with cheap acrylic enamel,it will NOT go over any urethane clear coats,it will defintly lift,fisheye,,etc,just ask your local body supplie shop(jobbers) or body shop,thats a BIG no no,you MUST coat with an epoxy sealer primer to put a barrier in between them.
I could go on and on in this about big mistakes that would actualy cost folks MORE money than a DESCENT paint job would of in the first place but im tired of typing for now
Again..im just stating facts,not trying to start anything with ANYONE,im actualy trying to save someone alot of work and money after having to strip the whole car to bare metal after all this...do your research,go get paint that is PROVEN,learn the proper procedures and you COULD do a cheap paint job your self,i do it regularly for folks here and there,one thing about body work and paint?..there is NO SHORTCUTS..either do it right or cry about the work for nothing and the empty wallet

 

I did not like the color and redid the car in PPG acrylic enamel. If you do not like it, then start your own thread on how to do a show car paint job.

 

Again,I wasnt attacking anyone,I was just trying to Enlighten folks to reality..not just give them answers they WANT to hear

#1 Acrylic Enamel is NOT easy to spray a nice finish compared to a urethane or BC/CC,so for someone's first paint job i wouldnt or anyone with expereince wouldnt recommend it,you have no room for errors,once its painted its DONE,as i stated on how hard it is to buff & sand out mistakes and make it look right,especialy metallics.BC/CC is VERY forgiving and easy to fix,the basecoat covers very nicely and even actualy hard to have runs because of how nice it lays and covers as long as your using the gun properly,once the clearcoat is shot on wet,its done and if any mistakes made it is very easy to shave off a run and sand and buff level or even spray more on it

#2 Learn the proper procedures of body work and painting and a "cheap" job could be done with some very nice results,I hate to see someone's first paint job turn into a nightmare because it detours them from ever doing it again and personaly I love to do the work myself..its self satisfaction knowing i done it myself and turned out nice..if you want to learn it the right way..use the power of the internet..research..ask..lay your ducks in a row so to speak and tackle it with pateints.There is so much usefull knowlegde on the thing anymore its crazy and the best part is its FREE.The few forums ive found are very usefull and knowledgeable is auto body 101 and autobodystore and AtoZautomitive and hotrodders,they all have experienced painters on there all the time who do it for a living and always helpful and willing to answer your questions or give great recommendations

#3...PLEASE do your research on the chemicals you are using,it could effect you the rest of your life,these acrylic enamels now days have an additive..the catylist or also called hardner/gloss?,....VERY dangerous,could destroy you the rest of your life if you dont have the proper ventilation and breathing aperatus,this stuff is no joke,it can and WILL hurt you in a bad way

Again im not detouring anyone from doing a paint job theirselves,im trying to make folks realize their is NO SHORTCUTS ,only thing that is cheaper is the products you decide to use to do a paint job

I am done with this subject,I spoke my peice and the TRUTH of it,I'm glad when someone trys to help out others with things like this,you actualy took the initiative to do all this and nothing wrong with that,little advice on that paint you put on that car,do a little light sand and add a clear coat on it,you'll be amased at the depth and gloss you get
Oh and by the way for the record for anyone THINKING I came here just to flame this thread..WRONG,I came here because I just aquired an 84 camaro body in a trade deal on a few cars and not quite sure what Im gonna do with it yet

 

Jeeze, you are just one massive run on sentence. Your "opinion" has been noted. Thanks.

 

He is very correct though...

 

He is indeed.

 

I think everyone is missing the point...yet again..

I am not a paint expert. DO NOT come in my thread and rave and rant about how to do it right. If you want to do it "right" do it and make a great thread about it. This thread is about a $250 paint job. You get what you paid for. You do not want a $250 paint job? Then move on.

I never said I was an expert, I hate paint and body work. I am a gear head not an artist.

Read the disclaimer before all the new people jump in and run their mouth about the rights and wrongs. This is what I did, you can do it if you want to.
If not then move along.

 

I think someone has a real inferiority complex.. Check my earlier post where i just asked a few questions and got flamed!

 

No one flamed you. Read it. I was a little touchy that you implied that I had the wrong mix ratio. I never insulted you, and I answered your questions with the best of MY knowledge.

But since you on the otherhand are on the side of personally insulting people perhaps I should be a bit more malicous.

 

OK I have read this hole thread a couple of times already...And a big thanks to Nelapse for starting this thread!!! first off I read a lot of threads, at a lot of sites,, this one is hitting the spot for me.. this is just what I was planing on doing in the first place... IT'S nice to read about someone that has been there and done it... If anyone thinks that this is a paint job is any way near what a pro could do, You need to go back to the start of this thread and reread it!!! WHAT I get out of this thread is, my camaro could be one color and not look to bad from the sidewalk.....AND be under $250.00.... why I keep reading this thread, is I hope to learn as much a possible to make the car look as best as possible for under $250.00.. AS far as learing thanks to CustomBuildsInc for "#3...PLEASE do your research on the chemicals you are using,it could effect you the rest of your life,these acrylic enamels now days have an additive..the catylist or also called hardner/gloss?,....VERY dangerous,could destroy you the rest of your life if you dont have the proper ventilation and breathing aperatus,this stuff is no joke,it can and WILL hurt you in a bad way" I will take that advice and get some protection. again this is a giant leap above "how to paint your car with a rattle can" or "how to paint your car with a paint roller" OK I'm getting a little long here,,, so THANKS AGAIN...

 

I have deleted all the pictures and technical information from my hands.



There are a million books on budget paint jobs.

Good luck everyone.

 

Dude, nowhere did i insult you, nor did i make out that you insulted me. I didnt imply that your mix was wrong, i was just telling you what i had read elsewhere and was hoping from some feedback from you based on the work you had already done.

You still didnt attempt to answer my questions, you were too busy telling me to go elsewhere as you seem to be doing with anyone who offers any comments other than what a great job you did....

 

I wanted a $250 paint job, I am a poor college student! I had already called Car Quest and started talking to them about purchasing paint and using your guide for my basis. I just bought a 1.4mm tiped HVLP paint gun to do the spray with.

I understand you get what you pay for, but I need to make my car strech out on me another 2-3 yearss untill I can do something with it. As you have said its about protecting the car first. It looks pretty good now for an 84, but its starting to show its age. Your post was truely helpfull and encouraging!

I have read this post front to back many times and have it book marked, so hopefully I can remeber everything in a few weeks.

 

aww man its gone bye bye

 

i find it extremely interesting to read and see how people do things. even if its the wrong way at least you tried.( not saying its wrong ) i always like to give credit where it is needed and you are attemping to help everyone else out. i do dissagree that people should mind there own business and not jump in however mistakes are made in our lives and that is that. All paint shops dont do it properly. as you guys are saying people try to save a buck or two and make do with what they can!

i would like to thank you for your insight as, i as well as others will be attemping to paint there cars now that the summer is here.. a word of advice? next time. post everything at once saves people from putting there 2 cents worth!

Douglas

 

Just wanted to say Thanks to Nelapse.. Almost done, me and my son painted last weekend, this weekend we will start wet sanding and buffing.. We are very happy with the paint job.. here a pic

 

You guys definitely have some cutting and buffing ahead of you