if you know how to weld you can google camaro rear patch pannels and have that entire outter piece of metal replaced. that what im gonna do with mine. or bondo if you dont mind that...

 

It looks like most of it is surface rust because someone sanded the paint off and just put primer over the bare metal. Primer won't protect bare metal against rust it has to be painted over. If there aren't any spots that are rusted thru then you can sand it off and reprime it and then get some paint on it. If it is rusted thru then it's time to cut out the bad spots and weld in some new metal.

 

I cant tell what it is, but it looks like there is a hole already on the lip? It looks chipped out, like its already got some bondo and it chiped? Picture isn't big/clear enough to tell.

If thats light playing with my eyes and there is indeed no hole, you have a few options. One is to paint with a rust killing paint / primer (POR15, Rustoleam's Rusty Metal Primer, Rust Bullet, etc) then paint to match. Another is to sand to bare metal, give a slim coat of bondo (just to fill imperfections), sand again primer and paint.

If it is a hole, do NOT use bondo to recreate the quater panel. It will need to either be replaced or have a patch panel welded in.

 

Cut it out and replace it is the only way to fix it.

Here is a pic mine right now, doing the same thing.

 

I have been experimenting with por 15

to see what it can and cannot do

get a drill and a wire wheel and clean it the best you can

post another pic and we will go from there

if you have to drive it, get a rattle can of etch prime and a rattle can of cheap paint.

no matter what it will look better than rust

 

Por 15 is used on floorboards, trunk, etc and works very well. You dont want to use it on the outer body, however. You will want to grind the metal down with a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder (very cheap to buy), if there is any metal missing, you will need to either weld or you can glue in a new piece of metal (if you are not familiar, go to your local napa and ask about 3M duramix glue, it works great,i have installed entire quarter panels with it, stronger than welding). then bondo over the entire panel and block down. good luck!

 

I did have a welder at my disposal but it stopped working.. so im really bummed about that. But this is currently my dailer driver.. other car got totalled when my girlfriend borrowed it. There is indeed a rust hole there.. i bought this as a project car and am now forced to drive it dont get me wrong i love it but its hard to fix the problems when u gotta drive it.. But i will look into the Duramix glue.. The car has sat in my garage so far this winter.. i didnt want the salt to make it any worse. The guy i bought the car from was a complete idiot.. Im on campus right now.. when i get home from classes i'll take some more pictures..

 

The duramix is awesome stuff, i highly recommend it.

 

man are you an instruction reader, which is ok

I consider myself more of a mad scientist

 

Anyone recommend brands for the panels? Theres a town a little bit away that sells OEM fenders for $100 but i dont know about the panels...

 

actually, i am more of a do-er. I have tried putting por 15 in other places, nothing will stick to it, if you roughen it up, you lose the protection. It is not designed to be topcoated at all. The duramix glue is great, and i have used it on quite a few projects, it is easy to use, fairly inexpensive (considering what it does), and very forgiving. As far as being an instruction reader, i like to consider myself more of an instruction giver, as i am so well spoken!

 

Problem with the glue stuff, your not fixing it, your just hiding it. Which appears someone has already tried to do before. If thats all you want to do, spray some rust converter/stopper on it, pack it with fglass or bondo and that will last you for a year.

I never knew por15 couldnt be topcoated.. but Ive never used it either. Its basically a rust stopper with some protection as well. But then again, your just stopping it, not fixing it. Again, this will last you a year or so.

Replacing the panel/section is the only way to FIX it. As for which replacement panel is best, dunno. I got mine off a junkyard car so it is a true gm. Given your location, odds are any panel you find will be in the same condition as yours.

Only you can make the decisions. If you just need a DD for a few months, pack it and drive tell you get a better DD. Then fix it right. Replacing a panel is NOT an easy task as I've finding out for myself.

 

actually the duramix glue has been proven to be stronger than welds, it is very permanent. If you cut out the existing rust and glue a patch over the hole, it is stronger than welding.

 

I'll have to read up on this glue. I could use it in my current project if it is stronger then welds.

 

I am friends with a guy who runs the body shop at a Chrysler dealership. He introduced me to the glue. He no longer welds metal panels, he is strictly glue. I gave it a shot and would never go back. Each cartridge of glue will run about 35 dollars, and the applicator gun will run about 75 or so. It is worth every penny. It is hard to believe how well it works. with small pinholes you can just put the glue in, it grinds like metal and does not come off or bubble like filler.

 

oh, you gotta have a special application tool? Bummer.

 

Duramix directions say you have to weld certain areas when you replace a panel. I've used a lot of it but never thought about using it for repair panels. We don't get that much rust around here. With enough overlap and a good fit it would make a nice repair. But it is still a bit of a patch not a fix. If you're not building a show car that will undergo a lot of scrutiny. I think it would be an acceptable repair.

 

Actually POR15 CAN be topcoated, you just need to paint over it with their special primer. Details at their website.

 

You only have to weld areas that are structural. If you were replacing an entire factory quarter panel, you would have to weld a bit, but a patch panel, glue will do it all. I still recommend against painting over por15, best to grind out all the rust/replace metal where there is going to be paint. The applicator gun is basically an oversized caulking gun, but you do need it to get the epoxy out of the cartridge

 

Sorry i still havent gotten any pics.. its been subzero temps here and the camera doesnt function too well in it lol. But no im not planning on it being a show car. The car needs work and i know that, but id rather keep it and restore it then take it to the scrap yard.. I already have the rear quarter cap to relace another rust hole there, so id rather just patch this. I'll prolly give the duramix a shot, now i just need to find a piece of sheetmetal to fix it.. i might just go to the JY and cut out the small section i need and go for there and see if that works.. Sad thing is i found a perfect chassis around 3 hours away for $500, but i am currently under funded and it was a v8 and auto setup.. so there would be more money involved getting a v8 and an auto tranny..

 

If you have any old car parts lying around youcan just cut out a piece of metal, some hardware stores sell pieces of metal also.

 

i might be able to ask my dad if i can take it from the "flintstone mobile" lol perfectly good v6 with less than 1000 miles in a jeep cherokee that has more rust spots on the floorboard than it has metal lol (exaggeration) if not i'll just check oreillys at advance auto.. Im hoping this summer i can have the body work done to give it a proper coat of paint.. (well a few atleast)..

and BTW thanks to all you guys for your help thus far.. it has been greatly appreciated. I love this car and i'm trying to do right by it.. thankfully im still young and got plenty of years left