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Hatch pulldown diagnostics..

Old Feb 20, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #1  
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Hatch pulldown diagnostics..

So I searched and searched but still need a bit of help as I am not 100% sure on what went bad. My pulldown assembly is stuck in the up position and will not activate to pull the hatch down. I tried pushing the tang but the motor will not activate. There are no broken parts so I think it is either the motor or the activation switch that went south. Is there a way I can find out which one it is before ordering parts? Thanks
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 08:41 PM
  #2  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Hatch pulldown diagnostics..

Are you sure you pushed the striker-sensing switch? The switch is just on front of the latch as you face it from the rear of the car. It is attached to the latch assy with a single hex-head screw and has 3 wires coming out of the bottom of it. The actual part of the switch that you need to press is a small black lever coming out of the right side of the switch. It is not uncommon for people to press on the spring-loaded centering block on the opposite side of slot that the hatch hook slides into. I hope I've defind it well enough so you'll have confidence you DID actually press on the striker-sensing switch. Press the switch. It should power the pull-down motor down. Once it has reached the bottom of the down cycle and you've heard that CLICk release the switch. It should come back all the way up and CLICK again. It is now re-set. If it doesn't energize there are a couple of things to look at.

First, check that you have power at the red/white stripe wire that plugs into the blue wire. If no power, then look for a bad fuse in the fuse block. If good fuse and good power, but it still won't start by pressing the striker-sensing switch then the reversing switch may be the problem. Sometimes the pull-down motor doesn't shut off quickly enough. If that happens it will strip the phillips-head screw that holds the reversing switch to the motor housing and pull the reversing switch off of the contacts of the motor. To correct for that, follow the tech article I wrote that is on this web site or download the instructions for the 101170 aftermarket nylon guides from the lower left side of my web site under "Documentation". You'll need to remove the reversing switch, then disassemble the two screws that hold the lift rod plate onto the motor housing. Once you've pulled out the assembly screw the gearnut in a couple of turns, then reassemble it to the motor housing. Reassemble the reversing switch and the rest of the pull-down unit and test it again. While you have the reversing switch and lift rod out you can test the motor by suplying +/- 12v to the two terminals on the motor that the reversing switch attaches to. Clean out any old grease and re-grease it while your at it. Also don't forget to check the condition of the guides.

Good luck,

Lon Salgren
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #3  
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From: Bucks County, PA
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Hatch pulldown diagnostics..

When I connect the power to mine, the motor runs continuously but nothing happens......what's up with that?
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Hatch pulldown diagnostics..

Originally Posted by jb3829
When I connect the power to mine, the motor runs continuously but nothing happens......what's up with that?

Bad gearnut. TDS p/n 109111 $7.95.

Lon Salgren
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