unibody buckleing
unibody buckleing
I have a 1986 IROCZ Z28. I am currently replacing the driver side floor on my IROC and when I was pulling up the carpet I noticed the transmission tunnel was buckled and the floor pan on pass side has slight tear in the metal. What is the best way to fix this? Can the car ever be straight again?
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From: Mid West
Car: '87 Camaro
Engine: '92 Carb'd 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: factory stock
Re: unibody buckleing
Is it possible someone hit something that found it's way across the bottom??
Re: unibody buckleing
Had to also fit with the pass seat to get it out. Could explain why the windshield was cracked when I got it. Floor on pass side appears to have buckled all the way accross. It has a gap near where it attaches to the rocker. how should I fix this? It has T-tops if that makes any differnce.
Last edited by 86IROCZz28; Mar 28, 2010 at 11:58 PM. Reason: had to add
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From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: unibody buckleing
Had to also fit with the pass seat to get it out. Could explain why the windshield was cracked when I got it. Floor on pass side appears to have buckled all the way accross. It has a gap near where it attaches to the rocker. how should I fix this? It has T-tops if that makes any differnce.
Last edited by juanillox8; Mar 29, 2010 at 12:14 AM. Reason: ...
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From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: unibody buckleing
Some pics would tell but it doesn't sound to good. If it is buckled, whether from an accident or rust, it would need to be put on a frame straightener and that MIGHT fix it.
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Re: unibody buckleing
These are the pics of the damage that goes accross. The major buckling is in between the shifter it seems. Just double click the pics for a bigger pic.
Last edited by 86IROCZz28; Mar 31, 2010 at 12:22 AM. Reason: Need to add
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From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: unibody buckleing
weeeelll you got plenty of rust there lol. about the buckling looks like previous owner hit something and the gap is just the separation of the panels caused from the buckling. if i were you i would replace that panel as well since you are gonna replace the driver side floor panel specially with all that rust u got there. Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Burnaby, B.C.
Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: unibody buckleing
Am I wrong, or does it look like the Pass Side of his car was whacked?
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From: toledo
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: unibody buckleing
hmmm wondering whats in between seats and under shifter?
anyone thinking driveshaft came apart once and smacked tunnel?
anyone thinking driveshaft came apart once and smacked tunnel?
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
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From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: unibody buckleing
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 584
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From: toledo
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: unibody buckleing
its a violent little guy spinning between you and passenger
Re: unibody buckleing
maybe the passenger side someone jacked it up and it slipped and separated the panels ?? that is wat happen to mine and i just beat it down where it was and then weld it back together and put some sealant on it
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From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: unibody buckleing
anyways back to his topic. yes it can be straight again. since u re cuttin the driverside floor to replace it. u will have access to both sides so u can work the metal with a dolly, a 2x4, and hammer n maybe a torch or a stud welder gun to shrink the metal...
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